Possible basic, stupid question about oil filters but would like to know

[JT20]

Alright, so I feel like I am in the right place to ask.

For the past few weeks or so (??) I heard noise on start-up in my engine for about one second, not more than two. Didn't sound good. It went away, would never come back, and only after the oil perhaps drained down and out of the engine back to pan. My engine is flat anyways.

Okay, so. Mystified.. I decided to change the filter, and not the oil. This for a few reasons. One, I don't have the drain pan to catch the oil. Second, I don't have the ramps to get the vehicle up high enough. (These are both things I have to get.) Third, times are hard until that paycheck kicks in and I couldn't spend even $13 on Walmart oil anyways.

So I picked up a new filter.

Changed it, put it in .

Better... BUT, still noise for about a second or so. Sounded like lifter tick but for that first second sounded worse than that.. Now, of course it's not because it went away and also I've heard that this engine needs a second or so to prime as the temperature drops but it still didn't sound exactly right, plus with 5W-30 oil in there I wasn't convinced.

Drove around about a week with the new filter, opening up the door and starting it to hear if it was consistent. About a 60/40 split to where it would and would not do that.

So, I picked up a larger Purolator filter that was not exactly specified for my car. I simply made sure the hole, threads, and mating gasket areas were the same. The Purolator was a 100something model #. I could not help but notice that my car oil filter is not very large, and I was NOT spending $12 for a K&N or a Mobil 1, which were smaller.

And, wouldn't you know ..

Didn't pre-fill it
Heard the noise for about ohhh 4 seconds maybe
And now it is quiet
And the noise has not returned.

Car runs smoother, too.

I believe there is something partially clogged maybe in my oil system, perhaps, maybe. Car with unknown history but..

WHY did this happen.?

 

[wpod]

[WHY did this happen.? ]
it just does.

 

[ZeeOSix]

If an engine makes some noise on a cold start-up it's most likely the filter ADBV not sealing 100%. Some engines require an anit-siphon valve in the filter center tube to prevent oiling system drain down, but those are rare.

If an engine makes some noise on a cold start-up no matter what oil filter is used, it's most likely not a filter issue, but something else like lifters that leak down independent of the filter ADBV doing it's job.

 

[JT20]

If an engine makes some noise on a cold start-up it's most likely the filter ADBV not sealing 100%. Some engines require an anit-siphon valve in the filter center tube to prevent oiling system drain down, but those are rare.

If an engine makes some noise on a cold start-up no matter what oil filter is used, it's most likely not a filter issue, but something else like lifters that leak down independent of the filter ADBV doing it's job.

Is this perhaps why a filter's quality can maybe be measured by how good it's ADBV or Anti Drain Back Valve is? And could this valve be "100% silicone?"

The new filter appears to have solved my issue.

 

[ZeeOSix]

^^^ I always go for filters with a silicone ADBV, especially if it's going to be used a long time. People that change oil filters pretty often don't have to worry about the ADBV material as much. But in general, silicone is more flexible and could provide better ADBV function from the get-go.

 

[JT20]

^^^ I always go for filters with a silicone ADBV, especially if it's going to be used a long time. People that change oil filters pretty often don't have to worry about the ADBV material as much. But in general, silicone is more flexible and could provide better ADBV function from the get-go.

Did I end up making a good choice with my Purolator?

The old filter was an STP and as mentioned above.. I went from that (probably was almost 100% blocked, my car had unknown oil change history prior to me beginning using it. Just the way things turned out) and then I went to the quickie Fram for a couple of weeks (I know. I know. I know. The first Fram I ever bought and it lessened he noise but didn't eliminate it. The Purolator seems to have done so. Going out of my way to not specifically beat up on Fram but I did switch from it) and now Purolator.. I mean, I don't really have the option of getting an OEM filter at least not right this second so.. if this Purolator works well then maybe I found my filter.

Again, this one was not explicitly recommended for my car, but I just looked at the shelf, picked out the largest box (some of these filters are really small) and made sure it would screw on and mate the same and it worked. I also pre-lubed it twice with some fresh oil. The Purolator had more rubber gasket area too but the mating face and threads and diameter lined up.

 

[Oro_O]

What you are describing, and has ben discussed but not named, is called "dry-start."

Another issue is filter placement - it can cook even decent silicone ADBVs. The ubiquitous Toyota 1mz-fe is a good example. The filter is mounted horizontally, under the right bank exhaust manifold and an inch from the catalytic converter. ADBV's cook faster than you can say "Disco Inferno."

To be accurate, I found most filters would last 1,000 or so miles before the ADBV would fail - Purolator, Mortorcraft, Toyota. I then tried a Fram Ultra and it went 15k miles and no dry starts. Then I changed it and that Ultra went 21,000 miles and no dry starts. Current one has 15k on it and no dry starts...

 

[JimPghPA]

JT20, in the future when you post about something going on with an engine, it would be nice if you included the make, model, year and engine size. There are some very knowledgeable people her on BITOG but you have to give the more information if you want them to comment on something that might be specific to your vehicle.

Sometimes including the above info will allow someone who knows some detail that occurs specifically with you vehicle to give you better information about what is going on.

 

[Danno]

I would go to baseline, use an OE filter in these circumstances.

 

[JT20]

Subaru EJ25.

 

[Razorsharpe]

Subaru EJ25.

I would use the Subaru OEM filter. Is yours a turbo or normally aspirated? If turbo, are you aware of the oil screen clogging issue with these? Subaru reduced and backdated the oil change intervals on the turbo EJs due to clogging. Given you don’t know the oil change history, you might have a serious problem.

 

[JT20]

I would use the Subaru OEM filter. Is yours a turbo or normally aspirated? If turbo, are you aware of the oil screen clogging issue with these? Subaru reduced and backdated the oil change intervals on the turbo EJs due to clogging. Given you don’t know the oil change history, you might have a serious problem.

Oh my. I never have heard of it. New to Subarus.. Hmmm.

I really hope something isn't partially clogged!?

 

[TrainingPolicy]

You said you have the 2.5L Subaru, is it an Impreza, WRX STI, Forester? Also, did you add more oil to accommodate for the larger filter? (I have more questions, but I don't want to bog you down with too many.)

 

[JT20]

You said you have the 2.5L Subaru, is it an Impreza, WRX STI, Forester? Also, did you add more oil to accommodate for the larger filter? (I have more questions, but I don't want to bog you down with too many.)

Legacy. And I am checking the oil level cold before I go out today. I didn't per se "add" because of amount of oil that came out of filter was not that much.

 

[JT20]

Now I may be worrying about nothing.

With oil level at top of crosshairs, and on a completely cold start, 34 degrees outside and a little more in the garage.. just gave her a quick start-up and any noise I heard was about half a second in duration. Which means it's getting better.

 

[dwendt44]

the Asian standard filter (spin on) is the 6607 (Fram number)
and the taller 7317 or the fatter 3593A are often used for
increased holding capacity and flow.
the top of the line Fram is considered the 'gold' standard of filters.

My 2¢

 

[JT20]

the Asian standard filter (spin on) is the 6607 (Fram number)
and the taller 7317 or the fatter 3593A are often used for
increased holding capacity and flow.
the top of the line Fram is considered the 'gold' standard of filters.

My 2¢

What is the Top of the Line Fram?

Mine was that orange)red color with the textured grip at the bottom. May have been a 3593A. I wonder if taller was the answer.

I should give it an oil change, too.

EDIT: Just started it up cold at the time of this edit and it didn't make the sound. Maybe the problem is either going away or it's just oil working itself in to where it needs to be. But just made no abnormal sound on startup.

 

[LubeFiner]

What is the Top of the Line Fram?

Mine was that orange)red color with the textured grip at the bottom. May have been a 3593A. I wonder if taller was the answer.

I should give it an oil change, too.

EDIT: Just started it up cold at the time of this edit and it didn't make the sound. Maybe the problem is either going away or it's just oil working itself in to where it needs to be. But just made no abnormal sound on startup.

Fram Ultra @ your nearest Walmart. $9

 

[JT20]

Just started it again.

No abnormal sound.

Maybe I should just leave it alone now? Lower the hood and call it a day?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Just started it again.

No abnormal sound.

Maybe I should just leave it alone now? Lower the hood and call it a day?

Yep ... don't mess with what's not broken.