Porsche 944 Oil Question

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New member, first post. I have been using Castrol GTX 20w50 with the Lucas Break-in Oil Additive with no ill effects but was wondering if I should be using something else. I am interested in any recommendations.

Here is my information:

1. What kind of vehicle you have: {1984 n/a Porsche 944 (105k miles)}
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well: {I use 20w50: From the owners manual:
Use only branded HD oils which satisfy the APl classification APl SE or SF for gasoline engines.}

3. Where you live: {Vermont}
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?): {Easy but fast (infrequent hard/high rev shifting but fast in 4th or 5th)}
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?): {Not a daily driver, but typically 3,000 miles per year. Distance of trips vary from 50-200 miles. Mainly highway mileage with some spirited jaunts around the back roads
laugh.gif
}

6. Whether your car has any known problems: {No issues.}

If you have any preferences -- synthetic vs. conventional, store-bought vs. ordered online, how long you'd like to go between oil changes, etc: {Conventional oil is preferred, store bought if possible. Oil/Filter is changed every 3,000 miles.}

Thanks very much in advance for any responses.
 
From Amsoil:

Quote:

1984 PORSCHE 944 2.5L 4-cyl Engine Code [A] 43E
LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:
Engine Oil
Grade 1......SEO[1]
Performance AMSOIL European Car Formula 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFLQT) Above -13 F......5W-40, 5W-50
All TEMPS......0W-40
Manual Transmission,016 (5-SPD)......GL-4
No AMSOIL Product Recommendation
Automatic Transmission,087......AF3
Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid (ATD1G)
Differential, Rear......GL-5
All TEMPS......90 [2]
SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT)
75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT)
SEVERE GEAR 75W-110 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVTQT)
SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT)
Fluids
Brake Fluid......HBH
AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-4 (BF4SN)
Clutch Fluid......
Power Steering Fluid......AF3
Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
Clutch Fluid......HBH
AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-4 (BF4SN)
[1] Use engine oil meeting the Porsche A40 specification..
[2] Final drive for Automatic transmission only.
FILTERS:
Oil Filter MANN Oil Filter (W71922)
Air Filter MANN Air Filter (C31101)
Fuel Filter MANN Fuel Filter (WK726)
Transmission Filter WIX 58912 Auto Tran Filter
NGK PLUGS AND WIRESETS:
GPSERIES PLUG BPR5EGP
IXIRIDIUM PLUG BPR5EIX NGK6597
STANDARD PLUG BPR5ES NGK7734
VPOWER PLUG BPR5EY NGK1233
WIRESET WIRESET RC-EUC021 NGK54291
WIPER BLADES:
Blade Class Driver Passenger Rear
ExactFit T181 T181 T188
NeoForm T16180 T16180
Winter T37180 T37180 T37190
CHASSIS LUBRICATION:
0 Fittings, 0 Plugs
CAPACITIES:
Engine, without filter..........5.9 quarts [1]
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........9 quarts
AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant
Automatic Transmission, 087 Initial Fill..........3 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
3 speed 087..........6.4 quarts
Manual Transmission, 016 (5-SPD)..........4.3 pints [2]
Differential, Rear..........2.2 pints [3]
[1] When refilling, remove dipstick to provide adequate venting
and allow oil to flow into crankcase.
[2] Proper fluid level may be 1/4 inch (6 mm) below the fill
plug, measure exact quantity, DO NOT OVERFILL.
[3] Final drive for Automatic transmission only.
TORQUES:
Oil Drain Plug.....37 ft/lbs
Manual Transmission
Fill Plug 16-18 ft/lbs
Drain Plug 16-18 ft/lbs
 
Thanks for that. There is some good info there. Unfortunately I prefer to stay away from synthetic. I don't use it in any older vehicle.
 
Do you drive this in the winter? I can't imagine getting a car to turn over in a good Vermont winter (-25F) with 20W50 in the crankcase!

0W40 is your best bet for that climate...5W40 close second...why the fear of synthetic? I changed back and forth between synthetic and conventional when I lived in Stowe and the old truck (same one) was just fine.

Is Porsche up to Toyota standards for build quality and engine seals? I am not slurring your car...I have never owned a Porsche...but the old truck handles synthetic just fine...see the sig...it has 226K on it now...

If it's a summer/fall/spring driver (which is what I would do with a classic in Vermont) and you really don't want synthetic, then the Maxlife 10W40 is a good recommendation.
 
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I've owned 3 different 944 series Porsches. Before I switched to pure synthetic (Amsoil) I used Castrol GTX 20w-50. Granted I live in South Texas and I drove them over 1000 miles per month, hard. Since you live in Vermont and don't drive hard, I would go with Castrol GTX 10w-30 with a short OCI - like 3k or so.
 
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I don't drive this car in the winter.
The issues I have had with synthetic were with a '66 Spitfire, '71 TR-6 and '88 Harley Sportster. Synthetic always seemed to blow through the seals on the cars and seeped through the gaskets on the Harley. Once I switched back to 'Dino' all was well again. I am unwilling to take this chance on the 944 (there is enough talk on the 944 forums of similar seal leakage).
 
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
I've owned 3 different 944 series Porsches. Before I switched to pure synthetic (Amsoil) I used Castrol GTX 20w-50. Granted I live in South Texas and I drove them over 1000 miles per month, hard. Since you live in Vermont and don't drive hard, I would go with Castrol GTX 10w-30 with a short OCI - like 3k or so.


Thank you...Should I continue with the Lucas ZDDP additive? I don't think Castrol makes anything with the higher ZDDP level (I could be wrong though).
 
Originally Posted By: psychodoc
I don't drive this car in the winter.
The issues I have had with synthetic were with a '66 Spitfire, '71 TR-6 and '88 Harley Sportster. Synthetic always seemed to blow through the seals on the cars and seeped through the gaskets on the Harley. Once I switched back to 'Dino' all was well again. I am unwilling to take this chance on the 944 (there is enough talk on the 944 forums of similar seal leakage).


I didn't know that Triumphs and old Harleys even had oil seals...I thought you checked the oil on those by looking at the garage floor!
lol.gif

OK...OK...Just kidding...but I understand why you're gunshy...I am not a tribologist, but too much ZDDP can actually be harmful in the long run. You might consider an HDEO - like the Rotella 15W40 in the summer and the 10W30 in the cooler weather...they tend to have higher ZDDP or other anti-wear additives...That's why the Packard gets an HDEO...even though it has a roller cam...
 
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We ran M1 15w50 in our 1984 944 with good results, no issues with leaking.

I'd skip the additives, this is a fairly low output engine and I think ZDDP additives are probably unnecessary.
 
Originally Posted By: psychodoc
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
I've owned 3 different 944 series Porsches. Before I switched to pure synthetic (Amsoil) I used Castrol GTX 20w-50. Granted I live in South Texas and I drove them over 1000 miles per month, hard. Since you live in Vermont and don't drive hard, I would go with Castrol GTX 10w-30 with a short OCI - like 3k or so.


Thank you...Should I continue with the Lucas ZDDP additive? I don't think Castrol makes anything with the higher ZDDP level (I could be wrong though).


I never used any additives in any of my Porsches - just pure Castrol GTX, Mobil 1, or Amsoil pure synthetic. Locally we have a "trained in Stuttgart by Porsche" mechanic and he constantly berates Porsche drivers that put any additives in their engines.

Just run a good pure oil - on the seals, which Porsche forum do you hang out at? I used to hang out at Rennlist - and I don't remember anyone there ever saying that additives are good or that synthetic causes leaks. This has been discussed on this forum ad adnauseum.
 
Old Germans like thick oil.

I think your Castrol GTX is a good match. I would run 20w50 in the summer and switch to 10w40 for fall and storage over winter. However if it's never cranked below 15~20*F then using 20w50 year-round shouldn't be an issue.
 
Originally Posted By: psychodoc
Thank you...Should I continue with the Lucas ZDDP additive? I don't think Castrol makes anything with the higher ZDDP level (I could be wrong though).


I have no idea what the ZDDP level in Castrol 20w-50 is. However, 20w-50 is not a resource conserving grade and doesn't fall within the same ZDDP limits for SM/SN as do, say, 5w-30 and 5w-20 and other resource conserving grades. It is also certainly not rated GF-4 or GF-5, and faces none of the limits imposed by that standard.
 
First welcome to BITOG.

Forget the antiquated 20W-50 dino and go with the Porsche spec' oil, M1 0W-40.
That lubricant had been back spec'd to our older Porsche's.
If you have any questions on what Porsche currently spec's for it's older cars PM Doug Hillary, he is our resident expert on what Porsche says to run.
 
Valvoline VR-1 is a good choice. High enough ZDDP to easy any cam or other wear issues and it comes in a 10W-30 or 20W-50.

Use the thicker one if you want it only for Summer or mix the two in any ratio you want for a little thinner brew in the pan.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
First welcome to BITOG.
Forget the antiquated 20W-50 dino and go with the Porsche spec' oil, M1 0W-40. That lubricant had been back spec'd to our older Porsche's. If you have any questions on what Porsche currently spec's for it's older cars PM Doug Hillary, he is our resident expert on what Porsche says to run.


Not to sidetrack this thread - but I thought M1 was *not* 100% synthetic?
 
M1 0W-40 may contain some GP III oils that some consider not synthetic but that realy is of no consiquence.
M1 0W-40 is a benchmark oil because it is so bloody good.
Name one competing oil of similar viscosity that is a better for the price? I haven't found one yet.
 
Originally Posted By: psychodoc
I don't drive this car in the winter.
The issues I have had with synthetic were with a '66 Spitfire, '71 TR-6 and '88 Harley Sportster. Synthetic always seemed to blow through the seals on the cars and seeped through the gaskets on the Harley. Once I switched back to 'Dino' all was well again. I am unwilling to take this chance on the 944 (there is enough talk on the 944 forums of similar seal leakage).


Honestly, if this has been your previous experiences with oils, you are better off just to keep on doing what you've been doing.

Since you don't drive it in cold weather, there's no point going to a lighter weight oil.

Since you only run it 3k miles a year, synthetic oil isn't going to improve much of anything.

And since you don't actually drive it hard, synthetic oil isn't going to offer you increased protection from anything.

Just enjoy your car, and keep it polished.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: psychodoc

Since you don't drive it in cold weather, there's no point going to a lighter weight oil.
Since you only run it 3k miles a year, synthetic oil isn't going to improve much of anything.
And since you don't actually drive it hard, synthetic oil isn't going to offer you increased protection from anything.
BC.

One big advantage of syn' oil has nothing to to with how hard you drive your car, but it's lower start-up viscosity even in the summer. As most know, engine wear occurs primarily on start-up and during the warming up period.

The OP will love the switch to M1 0W-40. The modern lubricant will transform the engine with a release of power, increased responsiveness and the car will become much more enjoyable to drive particularly when cold. His only regret will be why he didn't make the change sooner.
 
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