Plumbing advice?

SZR48207 · Jun 2, 2017

I have a simple problem that seems strangely complicated.

Leaking p-trap underneath a kitchen sink. 1.5" PVC pipe. Joints are primed/glued, and everything is a series of bends and twists.

If I could find a relatively "straight" portion, I would be able to cut just ahead of it and glue on new pipe, but.. hm.. can't seem to find a good spot.

Any suggestions on how to tackle this? I am trying to avoid cutting away more than I need to. It's a shame everything is glued together -- if it was threaded fit then I'd be done in an hour.

Jimzz · Jun 2, 2017

Well that's a code violation in most, all?, places. It should have a clean out in some places or a way to disassemble it completely.

Are the connection past your leak toward the wall not glued? Loosen the nut going to the sink and twist it a little. If it comes apart then get the proper fittings that allow it to be disassembled.

wog · Jun 2, 2017

Red there is a glue sold called wet dry glue,Oatly makes,blue can and glue is blue. use primer on joint ,then put on blue glue,let set up.then test.don t .if that doesn't t work put a flex seal tape or replace drain. Good luck ,no trap plug! You have to get new trap with plug,other trap is same you can t wire drain to clear clogs.

doitmyself · Jun 2, 2017

I've never seen a p trap plumbed in like that. What happens if you get a stubborn hair ball in there?

The pipe is not under pressure. I did a PVC repair in my basement 20 years ago and it is still holding tight. I used a 2 part epoxy labeled for use on PVC. Clean it well. Sand with very fine sandpaper to roughen it up. Clean again with solvent. Apply the epoxy all the way around in a nice bead that looks like a weld.

Maybe someone has a better idea. PVC cement might seal it up????

Tdbo · Jun 2, 2017

I think that I would just replace that whole section with threaded. It isn't worth the grief.

spasm3 · Jun 2, 2017

I think you may have to go into the wall and attach a new pipe and get rid of all the glue fittings, replace p-trap so its able to be disassembled.

If you want to hack job it, wrap bike tire innertube around it and use a worm clamp on it.

Tdbo · Jun 2, 2017

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I've never seen a p trap plumbed in like that. What happens if you get a stubborn hair ball in there?

The pipe is not under pressure. I did a PVC repair in my basement 20 years ago and it is still holding tight. I used a 2 part epoxy labeled for use on PVC. Clean it well. Sand with very fine sandpaper to roughen it up. Clean again with solvent. Apply the epoxy all the way around in a nice bead that looks like a weld.

Maybe someone has a better idea. PVC cement might seal it up????

PVC cement liberally applied would probably seal it up.
However in the long run, it would be easier to replace that gnarly mess.

SZR48207 · Jun 2, 2017

I agree it's a code violation. Not sure why it wasn't caught, although home was built in 2004 so it was before a lot of the big changes in 09.

If I can find a way to get the joints ungluged that isn't terribly destructive, I will replace the p traps with ones that have an access plug in the bottom.

I was just browsing videos on youtube and it looks like I may be able to use a heat gun to warm up a joint enough to make it release.

Chris142 · Jun 2, 2017

There is not any pressure there. A smear of epoxy should work. I dont see why it would be a code violation. Looks like every plumbing job I have seen even on new houses.

bioburner · Jun 2, 2017

As wog suggested, clean the joint well and get a roll of "self bonding silicone tape" Give a turn and a couple tight turns on the joint. The stuff is used in electrical and for higher temp joints of some stove venting. Around $5 for 10-12 foot. Also known as rescue tape. Should resolve the minor leak instantly. I keep a roll in every tool box. Can be found in either electrical dept or plumbing at big box stores.

andyd · Jun 2, 2017

Where does the drain pipe go?. All my traps are glued together. Screwed to the sink and I use a no hub connector. This is a rubber coupling and 2 hose clamps. They are the bee's knees for drains that need to be taken apart

BalticBob · Jun 2, 2017

place a bucket under the p-trap, empty when full

Donald · Jun 2, 2017

A hack did the work. No good plumber would slop primer and glue like was done on your pipe.

I would clean it a slap on some PVC glue.

Leo99 · Jun 2, 2017

Rolla07 · Jun 2, 2017

Originally Posted By: spasm3
I think you may have to go into the wall and attach a new pipe and get rid of all the glue fittings, replace p-trap so its able to be disassembled.

If you want to hack job it, wrap bike tire innertube around it and use a worm clamp on it.

+1

If you want a cheap temp fix use Oatey PVC cement and give it 24hrs to dry. Should work for some time at least.

xfactor9 · Jun 3, 2017

Apply silicone caulking all around the pipe then secure with a screw-on hose clamp. Since it's not under pressure, this is easy to seal

user52165 · Jun 3, 2017

Originally Posted By: Tdbo
I think that I would just replace that whole section with threaded. It isn't worth the grief.

+1 This

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Plastic-P-Trap-C9704B/205153793

Or similar. Flexible, offset, etc. All types available.

Really - some of these comments are ridicuous. Inner tube - [censored]? A few dollars and the right parts and you're done. It's the washers that seal. No glue, silicone, clamps, etc needed or wanted. Easy to take apart for cleaning. Hand tighten is all it takes.

Delta · Jun 3, 2017

Originally Posted By: user52165
+1 This

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Plastic-P-Trap-C9704B/205153793

Or similar. Flexible, offset, etc. All types available.

Really - some of these comments are ridicuous. Inner tube - [censored]? A few dollars and the right parts and you're done. It's the washers that seal. No glue, silicone, clamps, etc needed or wanted. Easy to take apart for cleaning. Hand tighten is all it takes.

Sorry but those things are horrible, not saying you're wrong, but I've seen too many failures with those. Not only do they not flow as much water, but they are flimsy as all get-out. They make a glue-in trap with a nut on it so you can unclog it if need to be.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-1-1-2-in-dia-PVC-P-Trap-Fitting/3132661

I have one of those on my washing machine drain in the basement now. About to re-do the kitchen sink with the same set-up.

toneydoc · Jun 3, 2017

I have used a dremel tool with a cut off disc and made some cuts in PVC and then placed a chisel in the cut and twisted the chisel in the cut to break the glue. It took quite a few cuts and you have to have patience. Try not to cut too deep or you will scar up the PVC under the outer PVC. Takes time but you can salvage some pipes that way. Of course you will then need to clean up the inner pipe before regluing. Good luck.

Or if you have two threaded parts, unscrew and discard and replace

tomcat27 · Jun 3, 2017

The proper fix is to remove all of the current pipe and install the proper trap that you can dis-assemble. for your situation, I would be tempted to use glue/sealant on yours and try to patch it.

Plumbing advice?

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