Piston Slap.... thicker oi????

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BTW - Where do you find this German Castrol? I've been using Mobil-1 0w40 in the Z3 for a while now and have not been able to locate the GC 0w30.

I thought about using Amsoil 5w40 but I can't seem to find a local retailer.

~Sail
 
Penn Plat will be the same as M1 on slap as its about the same for noise and thick. 5-40 shell rotella t at WM is another choice for controlling slap. 10-30HM except Valvoline Maxlife are thicker for the start. I'd do a few OIC tries with more aggressive experiments on thicker before I traded in. If you want to sell to a private party you have to control the slap to move the truck.

The WM ST flter is better and 2.08.
 
quote:

For the Ford 5.4L plug isssue, I'm sure the plugs being spit out were put in incorrectly and stripped the threads on the aluminun heads. I know many people that have this engine in their expeditions and have no problems. I currently drive a 4.6L mustang and changed the plugs out and properly re-torqued them in and have no problems either. This has aluminum heads also.

I think you're just trying to make up a lame excuse for Ford. Just read anywhere (like http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/01/ford_truck_engines.html) and you'll find that the spark plugs shooting out are caused by an inadequate number of threads on the cylinder head. Even Ford acknowledged this (sort of) by adding more threads to the heads in 2004. Most of the people who had the spark plugs spit out probably had their vehicles serviced at the dealer anyway.

Sure, Tundras have problems. I remember hearing that they had some transmission issues on early models. But it's doubtful Toyota engines would have a piston slap or spark plugs shooting out. Toyota usually stands behind its vehicles as well. The reputations of GM and Ford are ruined anyway, so why would they care?
 
Hey man, I have the same problem you did. I used Pennzoil 1oW-30 in my 4.8 and then switched to Mobil 1 10W-30 and it got worse. Now, I started using Chevron Supreme 10W-30 and my engine has gotten ALOT quiter and it virtually makes no noise at start-up, sounds just a soft sewing machine! The engine seems to like Chevron really well to. But if you can't get Chevron, try Havoline, i hear it does just as good, if not better.
 
I wonder if a HDEO in 5w 40 or 15w 40 might be worth a try?

I to was truck shopping for 2 months. I narrowed it down to the F150 and the Tundra quickly. In the end I ordered a new Tundra three weeks ago. I agree none of them are perfect. From what I understand the issues with the F150 plugs have been fixed now going from 1/2" reach plugs to 3/4" reach plugs.

From past experience Toyota seems to stand behind there products better than the big 3 in this day and age.

[ February 09, 2006, 09:21 PM: Message edited by: Hirev ]
 
I bought a new 2002 ford superduty cause they "most" of the bugs worked out . If I just had to have the new!!! 6 liter engine I would have had a ton of problems. I would get this years Toyota. Though New cars are a crap shoot ,they can be good or bad? I like Toyotas .
 
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Where did you hear that Ford 5.4L engines shoot out plugs? Maybe when using the wrong type of fuel or plugs in the aluminum heads.

It's a fairly common problem, especially after the owner changes them out. The plugs on the modular V8's don't have very many threads on them, and they can pop right through the hood.
 
z91.... - just to clarify - gm, ford, and dcx assembly plants in canada are all union labor plants. a company's profits do not go to the stockholders, but to the company.in this case, honda's and toyota's profits go to the corporate office's, in japan. if one wants to do a search on the web, one could find quirks or good/bad things about any automakers' products. eg. - look for "sludgemonsters", and you'll find several toyota and european engines mentioned. in closing, keep up the good, and informative posts, people.
 
My 2002 Tundra V-8 had unreal winter piston slap. The colder the start the more the slap. Didn't seem to harm anything tho and went away within 10-15 minutes after starting. Traded it before hitting 50k miles.

It did not have any of the brake problems or tranny problems.

It did have a thrum in the driveline at around 30 mph which was easily duplicated. Had slightly warped rear drums since new which I never bothered getting turned. Had a pinging problem at certain rpm's which higher octane made worse!

www.tundrasolutions.com has a lot of info. on all this and more.

Doing oil changes on it was a PITA due to filter location and angle.

Also the new ones have a sealed transmission.
 
"Well Guys: The other difference is that Toyota
stands behind there product. You would think
hat GM and Ford would have learned that by now
but I guess not."

IIRC Toyota had to be dragged kicking and screaming to replace the "sludge monster" engines they perpetrated on the public a couple of years ago. I still have a picture of the early Toyo trucks in the parking lot with grease smeared around all the bed joints in hopes of stopping the rust that consumed them in short order.

The new trucks look like they might be interesting but I'm not having anything with a "sealed" transmission either.
 
I have the same problem with my Suburban with the 5.3. When I purchased it with 52,000 miles, it had no signs of piston slap. I purchased it in the winter also. At my first oil change, I switched to Mobil 1 5w-30. Guess what? Piston slap. I know the dealer well that sold it to me, and I asked him today what oil they use at his shop, and he told me Advance Auto oil. His mechanic also told me that it is Havoline oil, in an Advance Auto bottle. Any truth to this? I've been using the Mobil 1 for about 10,000 miles. Is there any harm in going back to dino oil now?
 
"I asked him today what oil they use at his shop, and he told me Advance Auto oil. His mechanic also told me that it is Havoline oil, in an Advance Auto bottle. Any truth to this?"

No truth whatsoever. The Advance Auto oil says right on the bottle that it is not made by Havoline.

"I've been using the Mobil 1 for about 10,000 miles. Is there any harm in going back to dino oil now?"

No harm. You can switch back & forth as often as you wish.
 
Someone mentioned that GM products are built in Canada and Mexico by non-union workers. Well in Canada the plants are unionized. GM plants in Oshawa Ontario Canada have received many awards for quality. Also the Honda Civic, non union, is produced in the Alliston plant in Ontario Canada. The difference is in the enginering not so much to do where they are assembled union or not. Also North American producer are not allowed to import into Japan while Japan can export their vehicles here. It appears Japan has the benifits of both areas while the domestics don't.
 
I've got a 2001 Dodge Durango with a slappin' 4.7L SOHC V8. Only does it for about the first 20-30 seconds on a cold startup. Right now I'm running M1 5w30 with a Bosch filter. The oil change before was with Schaeffer's 5w30 syn-blend and a Wix filter. There was really no difference in the noise level between the two oils. At least I'm thinking it's piston slap. A couple nights ago I started it up, and it was considerably louder than it usually was, and took longer to go away. I thought it may even be a sticky lash adjuster (lifter), but I'm not sure. Guess I'll keep driving it till something breaks, then I'll know what it was.
smile.gif
 
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