Piston Clean-Up

[G.Frost]

At 200K miles, 8oz oil used in 3000 miles, I would not change a thing! That is excellent. Call off the piston soak.

 

[mjk1967]

All I can tell you is the following:

Had a 07 Accord K24, which burned a quart every 1800-2000 miles. I did (2) 1,000 mile runs of Kreen in the sump; back to back oil changes. I then took it out late one night on a deserted freeway, and bumped it off the redline a few times.

When done, the next change consumed 1/2 quart @ 5k. Unfortunately, I was in an accident soon thereafter, so I have no additional data to offer you.


Try the Kreen !!

 

[mahanddeem]

OP you consider going PUP? Lol, prepare for MORE oil burning. Thing burns like no tomorrow with the mediocre base stock and thin cST at 100c

 

[RateNate]

I'm wondering if you can chime in and help me over-think this. Why? Because that is what we do here on BITOG, right?
My daughter's 2013 Corolla has about 196k miles on it. She bought it from a friend of mine who is a regional sales guy. He states that he always had the oil changed by a guy he knows at a Valvoline Quick Lube place and used full syn oil on 6k OCI.
I changed oil on it and put in Valvoline FS HM. That was about 6k miles ago and it has burned about 2.5 quarts in that time. I changed out the original spark plugs, they actually looked pretty good given the miles on them; not oily. I changed the PCV valve (original wasn't bad either).
I've done a little research and it seems there is a known issue. The pistons have four holes drilled in the oil ring groove. Those holes get clogged up with gook, so the oil can't drain back down into the crankcase, so it is forced up past the compression rings with nowhere else to go. The fix is to remove the pistons, clean out the grooves and holes, drill two additional holes and put new rings on.
I am NOT going to do that.
I was thinking of switching it to Castrol GTX Ultraclean 5W30 and adding a 1/2 quart of MMO.
Then about a week ago I was reading the thread here "M1 vs PUP observations". Excellent thread BTW. That got me (over)thinking, maybe I should run PUP with their piston cleaning claims.
But, PUP would be about $8 more a jug vs. the GTX.
I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts as they over-think this with me.

126k Lexus is350 stopped burning oil??? w pics

Heres the backstory I bought an 06 is350 2 years ago and the PO told us that the vehicle sat for a year since they never used it much. So I monitered the oil for the car (99k when bought 126k right now), and the first 3 or 4 oil changes the oil was at or near the bottom level on the dipstick and...

bobistheoilguy.com

I had a similar issue with my is350, I dont know if they have the same piston ring issue but its definitely related. I think mine was babied most of its life too so it saw low rpms, but I started to drive more aggressively rpm wise but not speeding. I also used pup then pp for 6 oci and I now suprisingly dont burn anymore oil. Dead stop accelerations are the best

 

[RateNate]

Hig

I wasn't aware of the 2013s having oil burning issues, but I know Toyota has had ring issues for a very long time in some of their 4-cylinder engines in the 90s through the late 2000s. My Accord burns about a quart every 1k due to the oil control rings getting gummed up, so I just top it off and it keeps going and going. I've tried PUP and other oils that advertise cleaning to no avail.

higher rpms may be the cure

 

[nicholas]

I'm wondering if you can chime in and help me over-think this. Why? Because that is what we do here on BITOG, right?
My daughter's 2013 Corolla has about 196k miles on it. She bought it from a friend of mine who is a regional sales guy. He states that he always had the oil changed by a guy he knows at a Valvoline Quick Lube place and used full syn oil on 6k OCI.
I changed oil on it and put in Valvoline FS HM. That was about 6k miles ago and it has burned about 2.5 quarts in that time. I changed out the original spark plugs, they actually looked pretty good given the miles on them; not oily. I changed the PCV valve (original wasn't bad either).
I've done a little research and it seems there is a known issue. The pistons have four holes drilled in the oil ring groove. Those holes get clogged up with gook, so the oil can't drain back down into the crankcase, so it is forced up past the compression rings with nowhere else to go. The fix is to remove the pistons, clean out the grooves and holes, drill two additional holes and put new rings on.
I am NOT going to do that.
I was thinking of switching it to Castrol GTX Ultraclean 5W30 and adding a 1/2 quart of MMO.
Then about a week ago I was reading the thread here "M1 vs PUP observations". Excellent thread BTW. That got me (over)thinking, maybe I should run PUP with their piston cleaning claims.
But, PUP would be about $8 more a jug vs. the GTX.
I'd love to hear everyone's thoughts as they over-think this with me.

BG EPR.....
I have used it on an oil drinking Audi.
It is probably the only pour in additive that will clean your rings.
Use some lubegard bio after to keep them clean.

 

[AutoMechanic]

That GTX Ultraclean is great stuff I just wish they still sold it at Walmart in my area it will clean the engine nicely. The Marvel Mystery Oil is really good too and Seafoam would help it as well.

 

[1WildPig]

Excellent results using the GTX ! ... I'd compliment that with adding 16 oz of MMO to the oil for the last 500 or so miles of each oci to gently clean the engine... I'd also add some to the fuel to help clean it from both sides of the rings... good luck to ya !

 

[AJB0009]

Excellent results using the GTX ! ... I'd compliment that with adding 16 oz of MMO to the oil for the last 500 or so miles of each oci to gently clean the engine... I'd also add some to the fuel to help clean it from both sides of the rings... good luck to ya !

That was actually my plan exactly.

 

[wpod]

I have never figured out was was in PP or PUP other than marketing claims that would make the oil clean better than its competition.