Picked up a Copart vehicle

[GON]

I regularly look at Copart vehicles. I typically limit my purchases to 2004-2006 Mercedes S-class, and 2000-2008 GM sedans with 3.8L engines (typically Pontiac Bonnevilles and Grand Prixs).

I am not a recommender/proponent of Copart vehicles. Having studied them for over five years, 99 percent of the vehicles are sold for more than market value, and the risk is huge. A lot of work to try and find that one percent worth bidding on.

Last week I found a model of vehicle I have liked for some time. A 3.8L supercharged Buick Park Avenue. This vehicle was a donated vehicle and has a clear title. Something bad has happened to it when viewing the pictures. I was the high bidder last week at $200. The reserve price was not met and I declined to raise my bid. It went back on the auction block yesterday. My one and only bid was $225, someone had a opening bid at $200. No bidders at the auction, I was high bidder again. The Seller (charity) offered the car to me for $650. I declined, and my winning bid at $225 was still binding, even though I did not meet the reserve price. The Seller accepted my bid earlier this evening.

The Seller is smart. They waiting the maximum 48 hours before accepting my winning bid. I suspect they are savvy, and thinking I would raise my offer price, and only at the very end of the transaction opportunity window did they accept my offer.

No free lunch from Copart. The winning $225 winning bid, comes to a invoice of $448. Almost double the Selling price. 09/17/2020 SALE PRICE 225.00 09/17/2020 BUYER FEE 135.00 09/17/2020 INTERNET BID FEE 29.00 09/17/2020 GATE 59.00 09/17/2020 BUYER PAYMENT 448.00

The issue is now finding and replacing a quarter panel (at a minimum). I do not have the ability to replace a quarter panel- so now to find a body shop that is affordable.

 

[dareo]

Just drive it no trunk style!

 

[RhondaHonda]

Looks like it needs a rear body panel, right side tail lamp pocket, right inner and outer quarter. I can’t tell if a body shop/prior owner cut the inner quarter out or what is going on in the pics. What’s that car worth undamaged? I’m thinking trunkless with some harbor freight boat trailer tail lamps tacked on is good enough!

 

[RoadDukie]

Just drive it no trunk style!

It would be a modern day Gremlin.

GON. You've piqued my interest in these Copart cars. Seems to me the parts far exceed your cost if you were so inclined.
I'd say this was well bought.

 

[Nick1994]

Sorry, but you messed up big time on that one.

In 2016 I war rear ended in my Camry and it needed a quarter panel. The quotes were close to $4k to repair.

One of the big problems is you don't just need the outer quarter panel, but also the inner as well. Some serious welding involved.

Might be good as a demo-derby car.

 

[JC1]

That'll buff right out!!! What are the estimates to get it back to normal?

 

[eljefino]

Buickamino!

 

[GON]

Looks like it needs a rear body panel, right side tail lamp pocket, right inner and outer quarter. I can’t tell if a body shop/prior owner cut the inner quarter out or what is going on in the pics. What’s that car worth undamaged? I’m thinking trunkless with some harbor freight boat trailer tail lamps tacked on is good enough!

This price is complete dream land- especially since the car likely lived in a suburb of Chicago (land of rust beyond belief on vehicles). Anyways, here is a like featured 2004 park Avenue Ultra with 48,000 miles with a crazy asking price of $11,900.

These are great cars, maybe one of the last rock solid sedans made by GM. The 3.8l can run on bacon grease, and get near 30 MPG on the highway. The lower intake manifold gasket typically needs to be replaced, along with some coolant elbows, replace the DEX III with DEX IV, put in a shift kit, and occasional wheeling bearing- and this car will be super dependable- and comfortable. This car can give the strong reliability of a Toyota or Honda.... which I can't say for any GM sedan made post 2000 without the 3.8L.

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[dishdude]

The pictures in the listing didn't show the rear?

 

[GON]

It would be a modern day Gremlin.

GON. You've piqued my interest in these Copart cars. Seems to me the parts far exceed your cost if you were so inclined.
I'd say this was well bought.

Thanks RD.

My costs are more than the price. My car hauler is tied up with this Copart purchase, so I have to rent a trailer to go get it. I have a AAA membership, but think it is wrong to use for a purchase like this. I have to find a place to hide it from my Wife, and that cost is large.

I am getting old, my kids are grown, my grandchildren are 500 miles away, so these occasional purchases are just a hobby.

 

[GON]

The pictures in the listing didn't show the rear?

Yes they did. I like the cleanness of the overall exterior, the tires appeared to be a major manufacturer, which means the prior owner might of spent more money the necessary on maintenance. The interior looked pretty good. Worth a risk on my part... I have been wrong before.......

 

[GON]

Sorry, but you messed up big time on that one.

In 2016 I war rear ended in my Camry and it needed a quarter panel. The quotes were close to $4k to repair.

One of the big problems is you don't just need the outer quarter panel, but also the inner as well. Some serious welding involved.

Might be good as a demo-derby car.

View attachment 29567

Nick,

You are likely right. But one never knows. I purchased a 2003 Pontiac Bonneville with a smashed right rear quarter panel when I lived in Central PA. A local body shop guy cut a quarter panel on a junk yard car, removed the smash quarter panel, welded in the replacement panel, and painted it, out the door for $400 cash. In Utah, everyone has money so I don't think I can find a little shop like that. But there are some guys who can make a deal. I know in Phoenix, Tucson, and El Paso there are a handful of shops that can do this kind of work very affordable.

Here is the thread on my Bonneville Copart that I repaired. Needed a new door (which I had ) and quarter panel replaced. Memory serves me it was $400. And the guy was grateful for the job. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/latest-copart-purchase-not-so-happy.283949/

 

[Nick1994]

Nick,

You are likely right. But one never knows. I purchased a 2003 Pontiac Bonneville with a smashed right rear quarter panel when I lived in Central PA. A local body shop guy cut a quarter panel on a junk yard car, removed the smash quarter panel, welded in the replacement panel, and painted it, out the door for $400 cash. In Utah, everyone has money so I don't think I can find a little shop like that. But there are some guys who can make a deal. I know in Phoenix, Tucson, and El Paso there are a handful of shops that can do this kind of work very affordable.

Wow, that would be nice if you could get it done for a good price. I do wish you luck though.

But once you start getting quotes, if it turns out to be too expensive it makes a good parts car. Engine, transmission, interior etc. you'd make money doing that.

 

[dareo]

Utah is the land of overcharging on everything these days. Simple landscape work? Well thats $100 an hour! Be hard to fix this thing non DIY here.

 

[92saturnsl2]

I wonder how it ended up in that condition. Those S/C 3.8L Buick engines are fantastic. My favorite car I've ever owned was a 2000 Bonneville SSEi with that same powertrain. I put a fair amount of modding it, dyno'd 380 ft-lb and just under 300hp and still returned 29mpg on the highway. Dumbest vehicle move I ever did was sell that thing. The low end grunt those things have is something you don't find in a lot of modern cars.

I don't see how it's possible to lose money on that deal-- the parts alone are worth way more than what you paid.

 

[GON]

I wonder how it ended up in that condition. Those S/C 3.8L Buick engines are fantastic. My favorite car I've ever owned was a 2000 Bonneville SSEi with that same powertrain. I put a fair amount of modding it, dyno'd 380 ft-lb and just under 300hp and still returned 29mpg on the highway. Dumbest vehicle move I ever did was sell that thing. The low end grunt those things have is something you don't find in a lot of modern cars.

I don't see how it's possible to lose money on that deal-- the parts alone are worth way more than what you paid.

Yes, the 2000-2003 Bonneville SSEi were awesome. I had a 2001 and went well over 250k miles with almost no issues except a fuel pump, LIM gasket, and a water leak into the interior. I gave it to a high school kid , and he drove it not only to high school and work, but four years of college 300 miles away from his house. The only issues with these Bonnevilles that kept them from going forever was rust. That is it.

 

[RhondaHonda]

If you can find some cheap labor or a body guy that does stuff on the side out of his garage/barn it may just live another day. Rear body panel and the inner and outer quarter is likely 20-25+ hours of labor plus the time to paint it and materials. So if you can get that done for $1000-1500 and you supply the parts I’d say that would be a steal. There’s a few hundred in paint materials at least.

 

[tomcat27]

Copart cars are intriguing - but it gets pricey if you need to go through a broker.

 

[GON]

Picked up the Buick yesterday afternoon. Not a purchase I am happy with. Not hard on myself though, not a lot of money lost/ to lose, and nothing is a sure thing when buying vehicles at auction, no matter how much studying on does. The car photographs better than it is. Even though photos taken yesterday make the Buick look better than she is. If the rear quarter panel wasn't MIA, likely a weekend with this could make it a clean, decent ride... But it is missing, and copart trashed the bumper and trunk lid.......

The bad- #1 was the interior was not in great shape. That was the center of gravity for my interest. If the interior was really nice, teamed with the 3.8L SC engine.... Could make a nice commuter vehicle. It was an older person car who did not take great care of the car and was likely on a budget. The tires were replaced in pairs with different brands, and the rear tires were bald.

The good. After putting a jump pack on the Buick, she started right up. Let the Buick run while I towed her home, 50 miles. Ran great. Filled tires with air and took her off the tow dolly. She drove great. No fluid leaks under the drivetrain. The body is pretty solid, the front clip could be a donor, but nobody wants a Park Avenue...... I did find a donor Buick in my area, but sense the guying parting it out would not accept my offer for what I would pay for the inner/ outer quarter panel, trunk and rear bumper.

So no idea what I will do with her...

 

[GON]

Copart cars are intriguing - but it gets pricey if you need to go through a broker.

Pricey even with a license (which I have). This $225 car had Copart fees of $223. Ouch...... I have the license as it only costs me $50 per year. I never sell anything, so no paperwork to do with the license, And my home state has no sales tax, so no paperwork to fill out ever....