Pick My Next Oil From My Stash

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I have my stash I need to use, I'm coming up on my annual change in my 2008 4.2L Trailblazer with 180k-ish on the clock
Currently I'm running 0W-40 Rotella T6

I have at my disposal
More Rotella T6 from CJ-4/SM of 2015 vintage
5W-40 CK-4/SN Delo 400 XSP I think the oldest jugs I have are from 2018
0W-40 Mobil1 of 2019 vintage
5W-40 Rotella T6 from 2020
0W-40 Castrol A3/B4 which was manufactured in 2020, maybe early 2021
5W-40 Quaker State Euro from spring of 2021
5W-30 Mobil1 Truck & SUV from mid-2021
5W-30 Mobil1 High Mileage also from around mid 2021
5W-30 Mobil1 Extended Performance also from around the same time frame as the 2 prior.
Delo XLE 400 is my pick
 
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No oil is .10 a quart. If it was I would not trust it in my motor.
Yea, that ole Mobil 1 is no good for your motor

Mobil oil bought 8-2021.JPG


I guess we think differently. When I see an obvious pricing error I let the manager know so it can be corrected. I choose live my life with integrity. I don't feel comfortable being deceptive. That's just me though....
No pricing error just because it was 10 cents a quart. More likely overstock they had to unload and it would have cost them more to dump it as hazardous waste then to sell it off. They never cancelled the order or even asked to return it. Regardless, not my concern why they sold it so cheap.
 
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No pricing error just because it was 10 cents a quart. Regardless, not my concern why they sold it so cheap.

It was a pricing error. Just like the meat tags a few months back that had criminals loading up carts with steaks. This is what is wrong with our society when we have corrupt and deceitful dregs looking to take advantage. This is one of many reasons I'm not a Walmart shopper.
 
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I would toss the 2015 oil to a local approved hazmat facility and give away everything but the next oil change.
 
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Oh and also what kind of Mpg do those inline trailblazers give. I once heard it was worse than a 5.3 Tahoe from a guy that owned both and i just couldn't believe it.

In my 5.3 2wd sierra i can get 17.2 with my driving style city and highway mix.
 

blufeb95

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Oh and also what kind of Mpg do those inline trailblazers give. I once heard it was worse than a 5.3 Tahoe from a guy that owned both and i just couldn't believe it.

In my 5.3 2wd sierra i can get 17.2 with my driving style city and highway mix.
I think the best I ever seen wat a little over 18 on the highway, generally short tripping it around town is like 14, I probably get closer to 15-16 with the around town driving and occaisional 40mile trips, but yeah fuel economy is not the TrailBlazer's strong point, mostly I purchased it for the leg room.
 
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I think the best I ever seen wat a little over 18 on the highway, generally short tripping it around town is like 14, I probably get closer to 15-16 with the around town driving and occaisional 40mile trips, but yeah fuel economy is not the TrailBlazer's strong point, mostly I purchased it for the leg room.
I used to get about 16.8 in my old 5.7 suburban. Man I didn't expect them to be that bad. I thought it could average 19-20. Have you tried spark plugs and the typical tune up things.

My mpg increased by almost 2 mpg in my sierra when i did all the spark plugs, put a new air and fuel filter in, cleaned the maf, replaced the oxygen sensor just since its never given me an issue but i figured it may be worn or inaccurate.
 

blufeb95

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I used to get about 16.8 in my old 5.7 suburban. Man I didn't expect them to be that bad. I thought it could average 19-20. Have you tried spark plugs and the typical tune up things.

My mpg increased by almost 2 mpg in my sierra when i did all the spark plugs, put a new air and fuel filter in, cleaned the maf, replaced the oxygen sensor just since its never given me an issue but i figured it may be worn or inaccurate.
During the winter months it seems to run pretty rich at startup, the exhaust really reeks, I don't know if it's running excessively rich or that's what's intended when you start it in a cold climate, short trips in cold climates are probably a lot worse on fuel economy than they are down south.
 
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During the winter months it seems to run pretty rich at startup, the exhaust really reeks, I don't know if it's running excessively rich or that's what's intended when you start it in a cold climate, short trips in cold climates are probably a lot worse on fuel economy than they are down south.
It's natural for engines to run a bit rich when it's cold but it shouldn't reek like hell. But even when I run my trucks in low 30f weather like I've been having this week my efficiency is still pretty much the same as if it were summer and when i open the door to the side of my house where the exhaust is basically shooting at me i can hardly smell it. Only less than 1mpg worse than in the summer months.

You may be getting getting some unmetered air in somewhere thus causing the sensor to sort of read lean so it then dials the gas up by mistake and dumps much more fuel in than it actually needs. But once things warm up it seals up a bit better from thermal expansion. it's possible that you may have a small exhaust leak before the sensor or a vacuum leak. Maybe a small leak in your intake manifold gasket could also do it. Small enough for it to go unnoticed.

Could be as simple as worn spark plugs. It's not up to the task to burn what it's being given. Just cause it aint a misfirin don't mean its a good firin. Wise words a very old white mechanic told me about 11 years ago when i went to his shop on a referral to pick up some parts for an old Mitsubishi pickup i had in Mexico.
 
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blufeb95

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Could be as simple as worn spark plugs. It's not up to the task to burn what it's being given. Just cause it aint a misfirin don't mean its a good firin. Wise words a very old white mechanic told me about 11 years ago when i went to his shop on a referral to pick up some parts for an old Mitsubishi pickup i had in Mexico.
Spark plugs should be all good, less than 2 year old NGK rutheniums
 
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Spark plugs should be all good, less than 2 year old NGK rutheniums
Ah you sprung for the fancy pants plugs. I was skeptical of them so i went with the now old school iridium's since i didn't understand how ruthenium having a lower melting points meant more durability. May just be a small leak somewhere that's warms itself out.
 

blufeb95

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Ah you sprung for the fancy pants plugs. I was skeptical of them so i went with the now old school iridium's since i didn't understand how ruthenium having a lower melting points meant more durability. May just be a small leak somewhere that's warms itself out.
I did get a code last winter for the air injection pump, but I think it just had condensation freeze in it and when it thawed the code never appeared again.
 

blufeb95

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Doesn't your engine require d1G2?
Another hoarding lesson.
Only thing required by mine is 6094M. Gm recommends dexos1 as it's replacement, but it's a 15 year old vehicle that has no warranty, I could care less about GM's approval, my car shouldn't suffer from the timing chain soot and LSPI issues that modern small displacement TGDI engines are well known for, that's been the primary force in the evolution of Dexos1, as long as it's not no name garbage it's fine in my motor and most GM motors before direct injection.
 
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Only thing required by mine is 6094M. Gm recommends dexos1 as it's replacement, but it's a 15 year old vehicle that has no warranty, I could care less about GM's approval, my car shouldn't suffer from the timing chain soot and LSPI issues that modern small displacement TGDI engines are well known for, that's been the primary force in the evolution of Dexos1, as long as it's not no name garbage it's fine in my motor and most GM motors before direct injection.
Not just for LSPI and timing chains. d1G2 is a strict and stout spec and used to be my go-to oil before my recent experiments.
Maybe you should have cared about using a spec oil for your vehicle. Mine are well over 180k and don't use any measurable oil between 5k OCI's.
 
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