Id use 0w30 over 5w30 esp but both would work if those are your choices
Ford Maverick 2.0 EB Oil Recommendation - Towing
- Thread starter anthonym6
- Start date
Great oil, does not carry the Ford spec if that matters to you.
Yes, it says SQ on the jug. "Meets or exceeds". Same for C3.
Mobil websites are notorious for being out of date.
I'm too lazy and have trouble uploading things on this site. You'll have to trust me.
So its not actual API SQ. I guess I was wrong to trust you.
Not that it bothers me
I use the Exceeds API SP Engine test requirements version.
ESP 5w30 is actual API SP (probably SQ now)
A bit late to the party, but my vote is for either ESP 0W-30 or FS 0W-40.
Towing is tolling much more the transmission and the brakes than the engine.
Enjoy your Maverick truck. If clearly mentioned you tow with this vehicle and intend to tow regularly with the vehicle.
I'd be more concerned about what gasoline you are feeding that engine. If you are towing I strongly suggest you feed that 2.0L premium fuel. Ford calls out and recommends premium fuel for towing purposes. I have 2.0L Ecoboost in another vehicle with factory tow package. All I use is premium fuel. I notice better highway fuel economy on long commutes.
Future maintenance, I would strongly suggest transmission drain and refill absolutely no more than 60,000mi. Maybe 30,000mi if you really wanted. Drain and fill is sufficient. No need for a full flush.
Absolute firm believer that these Ecoboost engines WILL run on 87 octane. They will be much happier on 93 octane.
I'd be more concerned about what gasoline you are feeding that engine. If you are towing I strongly suggest you feed that 2.0L premium fuel. Ford calls out and recommends premium fuel for towing purposes. I have 2.0L Ecoboost in another vehicle with factory tow package. All I use is premium fuel. I notice better highway fuel economy on long commutes.
Future maintenance, I would strongly suggest transmission drain and refill absolutely no more than 60,000mi. Maybe 30,000mi if you really wanted. Drain and fill is sufficient. No need for a full flush.
Absolute firm believer that these Ecoboost engines WILL run on 87 octane. They will be much happier on 93 octane.
You should know that the "tow rating" is a marketing term. It's never the rate-limiting step for towing. It's always payload. They suck you in with these high "tow rating" numbers, but you max out the payload far sooner.
Here is a good towing calculator.
This is a good video to watch on towing and payload. (probably should have watched this before you bought)
It looks like you've got a Coachmen Catalina Summit Series 7. The max loaded weight is 4310 lb.
You've probably got about 500 lb tongue weight, even just going with your 3300 lb figure. You don't want to exceed 80% of your payload. Yours is 1500 lb. So that leaves you 700 lb for you, your cargo, your passengers, your coffee in the Yeti mug, your floor mats (yes, those count towards your payload too), the dog, the beer cooler, etc.
I think you're over payload, and you have bigger problems than which oil to buy. I think you didn't buy enough truck for that trailer. You can confirm with a scale (pull onto it with everything you're going to tow and leave the trailer off). Check that figure against the weight in your driver's side door jamb. I'd wager you're over it.
So technically you might be able to tow 4000 lb, but only if you're a 110 lb woman driving naked without floor mats and literally nothing in the cab or bed of the truck.
Before purchasing the travel trailer I did quite a bit of research. I have used the Ford Towing Calculator, with a lot more cargo weight and more trailer content weight than I use, and I am under the payload rating as well as the GCWR for my vehicle. I have also used scales to confirm. I am also towing in minimal elevation changes while keeping my speeds reasonable. I've already put 2000 miles on with this set up last year and everything performed as it should. Just wanted to protect my investment and get some feedback on which oil to use.
Appreciate you looking out, but I like to base my decisions on facts rather than assumptions.
Don’t switch oils. One you get your engine established on a certain chemistry, it’s helpful to stick with it.
With today’s premium synthetics, you don’t need to switch to have an oil that will crank in MI winters while easily handling the towing duty in summer.
Personally, I like a 0w-40 Euro oil here as the older high-SAPS formulations really thrive at higher oil temps associated with towing, it lets the robust additives do their thing.
Likewise a DEXOS R rated oil is going to handle the elevated oil temps quite handily. The Euro FS is one of the few oils rated both Dexos R as well as having all the Euro approvals.
Pretty tough to beat when you can get it everywhere at walmart for under $30.
Well you did more due diligence than 99% so I commend you on that. I'm impressed you stayed under payload with that load. Maybe your tongue weight is on the lower side with your setup. Good work on staying safe (and keeping everyone else safe around you)!
For your oil selection, I'd recommend Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 or Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40. Year round.
Packing light, no propane tank, lithium battery, and loading the travel trailer correctly is how I kept the tongue weight low.Well you did more due diligence than 99% so I commend you on that. I'm impressed you stayed under payload with that load. Maybe your tongue weight is on the lower side with your setup. Good work on staying safe (and keeping everyone else safe around you)!
For your oil selection, I'd recommend Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 or Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40. Year round.
I have to do similar things with my towing setup, though I keep both my propane tanks topped off. I’m about to move the battery to the rear of the camper (near the distro panel/converter) to get more weight shifted rearward. It gets pretty spartan the further forward of my trailer axles you get.
Tow Vehicle: 2014 Lincoln Navigator L 4x4 (TW: 850lbs. Tow Cap.: 8000)
Camper: 33ft, 7500lbs last time I hit the scales. My tongue scale typically has me around 775-800lbs. WDH (Equalizer 16k) is pretty much maxed out and gets me distributed well. My main problem is flex at the hitch eating up some of my distribution. Taking it to a weld shop soon to have it reinforced.
I have a 22 Maverick and a concession trailer. The truck and trailer saw daily use for 2 yrs on hilly terrain. (Taking time off now.) Trailer gross weight 3900lbs. I never loaded the trailer more than 3500. Motorcraft 5w30 full synthetic is more than adequate for your needs. The fuel is more important than the oil, High test when towing is absolute must. Also changing your fluids more often no long oci's here. This includes transmission and ptu fluids. That's what will cook first. Keep an extra eye on your brake pads too. I would also recommend a good brake set up added to your trailer if it doesn't already have one.
Definitely don't forget about the transmission fluid if towing. That 8F35 is a fragile unit and needs very regular fluid changes, especially when towing given the extra heat. And don't just do a single drain and fill but rather three or four at a service, cycling the transmission in between to get as much old fluid out. A drain only dumps half the fluid. The most reasonable cost to me seems to be the Mercon ULV from Rock Auto in the big jugs. Up to you if you want to fortify the last fill with a premium fluid or additive like Lubegard. The premium stuff is just too expensive to use for chasing old fluid out.
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Kirkland Signature Full Synthetic 5W-30. You'll never kind a Synthetic Blend for less and that can outperform the Kirkland oil at the price point. Comparable is the Walmart Mobil sale. Mobil Full Synthetic $19.97 for a 5 Qt jug.
I knew the Kirkland oil mafia would show up sooner or later.
I don't understand the concept of buying a brand new truck, taking the increased cost of the tag, insurance, etc., and then cheaping on the oil. Crazy. You can buy top of the line Euro oil for like $27/jug.
Ford techs like Ford Boss Me (see video above) appreciate your selection though.
I don't understand the concept of buying a brand new truck, taking the increased cost of the tag, insurance, etc., and then cheaping on the oil. Crazy. You can buy top of the line Euro oil for like $27/jug.
Ford techs like Ford Boss Me (see video above) appreciate your selection though.