Pep Boys warns Not to mix oils.

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New API standard and emblem= API IDN-BU

Meaning API It Did Not Blow Up

I've used an API IDN-BU about a year and a half ago when I mixed odds and ends of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage, and Pennzoil Gold. No deleterious effects or outcome.
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
New API standard and emblem= API IDN-BU

Meaning API It Did Not Blow Up

I've used an API IDN-BU about a year and a half ago when I mixed odds and ends of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage, and Pennzoil Gold. No deleterious effects or outcome.


That would be a very compatible mix, all from the same company. If you mixed Pennzoil and Mobil then you might raise a few eyebrows around here.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Problem is that the "compatibility" test is only that they can be mixed (with 7 reference oils), frozen, heated, and frozen again without reating together, precipitating something out, or splitting like salad dressing...not that any othe performance parameter is maintained.

It's essentially the chemical equivalent of "nothing blew up"


As I said, it's not optimal and personally I would avoid it unless it was a beater that I couldn't care less about. But I think there are large numbers of people who've never had any sort of Frankenbrew issues. NOT mixing in oil on a sump running low would be a much bigger issue...
 
Given that manufacturers state their oil is compatible with other brands, I see no issue, unless someone can show me that some additive combinations are incompatible and they have data to demonstrate that claim.

All the same, I've still got some API 'SM' rated synthetic from Rotella and Mobil1. None of that is going in my new truck. I'm not sure what to do with it. Since it's been stored in an unheated garage for a few years I don't want to put in the 2006 Porsche 987 I'd bought it for either. Seems like I read somewhere that oil has a limited shelf life and should not be stored where it is subject to freezing temperatures. It's been at least 6 years since I've looked at 'oil issues,' so I'm sure many of you have more current and authoritative information.
 
Should I do an oil analysis on my 50-50 Pennzoil/Mobil mix? Honestly I don't want to waste the $40. It would have been cheaper to just throw the PYB in the trash, then the cost of analysis to see if it was "safe".
 
Originally Posted By: veryHeavy
Should I do an oil analysis on my 50-50 Pennzoil/Mobil mix? Honestly I don't want to waste the $40. It would have been cheaper to just throw the PYB in the trash, then the cost of analysis to see if it was "safe"


Originally Posted By: PeterPolyol
There is nothing specific about, or any data expected out of, a UOA that relates to mixing fundamentally compatible finished consumer lubricants.
 
Originally Posted By: Danmark
Given that manufacturers state their oil is compatible with other brands, I see no issue, unless someone can show me that some additive combinations are incompatible and they have data to demonstrate that claim.


This adequate ?

meets your requirement of "some", and "Data"

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3569029/Mixing:_VIIs,_PPDs,_Waxes

Nobody says that it ALWAYS happens, nor that it OFTEN happens, but it CAN happen, and the Myagi defence of "best defence is no be there" is an easy way of not finding out that the limits of cold weather performance has been negatively affected.

Originally Posted By: Danmark
All the same, I've still got some API 'SM' rated synthetic from Rotella and Mobil1. None of that is going in my new truck. I'm not sure what to do with it. Since it's been stored in an unheated garage for a few years I don't want to put in the 2006 Porsche 987 I'd bought it for either. Seems like I read somewhere that oil has a limited shelf life and should not be stored where it is subject to freezing temperatures. It's been at least 6 years since I've looked at 'oil issues,' so I'm sure many of you have more current and authoritative information.


The oil's colt temperature performance CAN be impacted by being subjected to long periods of cold tempertures...University 101 stated that it was ruined, SAE papers indicate that by bringing it back up to 80C resets the clock.
 
Sounds to me the Manager addressed the situation correctly your just sensitive to hearing it because you feel informed and educated. That's something you tackle in your own garage and not possibly at someone else's liability. Besides he did do what you asked right? So what's the big deal about it to slam Pep Boys because your feelings got hurt!
TOTO.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow


Nobody says that it ALWAYS happens, nor that it OFTEN happens, but it CAN happen, and the Myagi defence of "best defence is no be there" is an easy way of not finding out that the limits of cold weather performance has been negatively affected.



Well, yeh...but you aren't "there" anyway, you're in Australia, so "the limits of cold weather performance" are probably academic-interest-only, as they are to me.

IF I was in Alaska, I probably wouldn't do it.
 
Folks who live in Cold Country and do their own maintenance know what works and what does not. A story about two oils mixed gelling in the cold and car not starting gets around locally pretty quick (weeks/months)... Others will shy away from letting that happen. you do not want to be walking at -20*F

Lots of oils mix just fine. Folks top off with other brands when on the road all the time. The percentage of bad mixes is pretty low (single digits, or less ?).

I think the deal is to stay away from off-brands when possible ...
 
Some do this to get rid of a maverick quart here and there - and some are intentional fanatics about this. Close as I come to the later is with HM oil ... About 50:50 (same make) at early signs of leaks.
 
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