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If it were mine it would get a 3K change, and then another at the 8K mark. Then start the 8K OCI's
Pentastar 3.6 what oil and best break in method?
- Thread starter vinsonclarkjeep
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Originally Posted By: vinsonclarkjeep
Ok so I'm safe to run the factory fill to about 3000 miles? The owners manual oci says 8000 miles under normal driving conditions. What would be the better oil to run Pennzoil ultra or Mobil 1 ep?
I'd go with Pennzoil Platinum before I'd go with Mobil 1 EP. It's far cheaper, and it can easily go 8k in a non-DI engine. I love PP, as you can see from my sig.
Ok so I'm safe to run the factory fill to about 3000 miles? The owners manual oci says 8000 miles under normal driving conditions. What would be the better oil to run Pennzoil ultra or Mobil 1 ep?
I'd go with Pennzoil Platinum before I'd go with Mobil 1 EP. It's far cheaper, and it can easily go 8k in a non-DI engine. I love PP, as you can see from my sig.
Originally Posted By: Nick R
vinsonclarkjeep said:
Originally Posted By: vinsonclarkjeep
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Originally Posted By: Nick R
vinsonclarkjeep said:
Its going to come down to mobil 1 ep and PPU for me. I want the very best for this engine i dont mind spending the extra dollar because i want this engine to last me a very long time. I dont think i can go wrong with either though.
Originally Posted By: vinsonclarkjeep
Its going to come down to mobil 1 ep and PPU for me. I want the very best for this engine i dont mind spending the extra dollar because i want this engine to last me a very long time. I dont think i can go wrong with either though.
You sure can't. Just get whatever is more available/cheaper.
As for your first oil change, this is a never ending debate. But it certainly won't harm your engine to do it early, say at 1000-1500 miles.
Its going to come down to mobil 1 ep and PPU for me. I want the very best for this engine i dont mind spending the extra dollar because i want this engine to last me a very long time. I dont think i can go wrong with either though.
You sure can't. Just get whatever is more available/cheaper.
As for your first oil change, this is a never ending debate. But it certainly won't harm your engine to do it early, say at 1000-1500 miles.
Originally Posted By: semaj281
Originally Posted By: vinsonclarkjeep
Its going to come down to mobil 1 ep and PPU for me. I want the very best for this engine i dont mind spending the extra dollar because i want this engine to last me a very long time. I dont think i can go wrong with either though.
You sure can't. Just get whatever is more available/cheaper.
As for your first oil change, this is a never ending debate. But it certainly won't harm your engine to do it early, say at 1000-1500 miles.
Thats what i may end up doing i dont dive the jeep alot at all its mainly my toy. I will dump the factory fill around 1500 miles and switch over to synthetic. I say i dont drive it alot but this new pentastar sure does make the jeep fun to drive now its a really nice engine.
Originally Posted By: vinsonclarkjeep
Its going to come down to mobil 1 ep and PPU for me. I want the very best for this engine i dont mind spending the extra dollar because i want this engine to last me a very long time. I dont think i can go wrong with either though.
You sure can't. Just get whatever is more available/cheaper.
As for your first oil change, this is a never ending debate. But it certainly won't harm your engine to do it early, say at 1000-1500 miles.
Thats what i may end up doing i dont dive the jeep alot at all its mainly my toy. I will dump the factory fill around 1500 miles and switch over to synthetic. I say i dont drive it alot but this new pentastar sure does make the jeep fun to drive now its a really nice engine.
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
If you are breaking it in use a conventional. Too much lubricity isn't always good in the beginning. I know this isn't a rebuild or a street-rod but if you want to break it right use a conventional and take it on a highway (with little traffic as possible and keep it cycling between 45-50 to 65-70. Do that at least 6-7 times and hitting the gas and letting it slow. You have a short window to seat the rings properly. Nice engine. I think I am going to get a Chrysler 200 V6 myself so I will keep in touch.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
CHUBBS-get a copy of Motor Trend and take a look at their comments before you put the money down on a 200
If you are breaking it in use a conventional. Too much lubricity isn't always good in the beginning. I know this isn't a rebuild or a street-rod but if you want to break it right use a conventional and take it on a highway (with little traffic as possible and keep it cycling between 45-50 to 65-70. Do that at least 6-7 times and hitting the gas and letting it slow. You have a short window to seat the rings properly. Nice engine. I think I am going to get a Chrysler 200 V6 myself so I will keep in touch.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
CHUBBS-get a copy of Motor Trend and take a look at their comments before you put the money down on a 200
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You've mentioned at least twice, you'd like the engine to last a long time. Why would you buy one with 200 miles on it then? As you said, no one knows how those miles were driven, why take the chance?
Originally Posted By: steve20
You've mentioned at least twice, you'd like the engine to last a long time. Why would you buy one with 200 miles on it then? As you said, no one knows
how those miles were driven, why take the chance?
Will 200 miles really make or break a engine?
You've mentioned at least twice, you'd like the engine to last a long time. Why would you buy one with 200 miles on it then? As you said, no one knows
how those miles were driven, why take the chance?
Will 200 miles really make or break a engine?
Originally Posted By: vinsonclarkjeep
Originally Posted By: steve20
You've mentioned at least twice, you'd like the engine to last a long time. Why would you buy one with 200 miles on it then? As you said, no one knows
how those miles were driven, why take the chance?
Will 200 miles really make or break a engine?
No. And neither will the difference between Mobil 1 EP and Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra. All are fine oils. Use whichever one you can find cheapest...or use the one with the prettiest bottle.
Me? I'm partial to Mobil 1 AFE in my vehicles because I like how clear it pours from the bottle, and looks almost too clear to see on the dip stick. I like to watch oil turn color with use.
Originally Posted By: steve20
You've mentioned at least twice, you'd like the engine to last a long time. Why would you buy one with 200 miles on it then? As you said, no one knows
how those miles were driven, why take the chance?
Will 200 miles really make or break a engine?
No. And neither will the difference between Mobil 1 EP and Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra. All are fine oils. Use whichever one you can find cheapest...or use the one with the prettiest bottle.
Me? I'm partial to Mobil 1 AFE in my vehicles because I like how clear it pours from the bottle, and looks almost too clear to see on the dip stick. I like to watch oil turn color with use.
Originally Posted By: semaj281
Originally Posted By: jorton
City stop and go driving style puts more stress on the vehicle. Especially brakes and transmission so keep up with routine maintenance on those.
If Jeep puts your driving style in the severe service category you may decide to run short intervals, using conventional oil to save money. If you do do this, consider running 5w-20 or 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 because current formulations are too volatile and too much burns off leaving deposits and soot inside of engines.
You took the words out of my keyboard.
As for break in, it is best to run it hard once it warms up, and to vary the speed as much as possible. The point is to elevate cylinder pressures, so engine breaking followed by hard acceleration is ideal. Although at 400 miles, I would think most of the break-in is already done.
I wouldn't change the recommended oil viscosity on this engine. The cam phasers operate hydraulically. If you live where there is very cold winters (like where i live), you must start the engine and just let it idle for 10 minutes before you drive it. There are engines out now that have oil viscosity sensors and will disable the vehicle to prevent any possible damage. (1.4 liter FIAT Multi Air) Also the FIAT engine will not allow the engine to even start in ambient temperatures below -30C or -35 i cant remember exactly. As for the engine break-in period, i have direct info from Chrysler. (since i work as a tech for them) This also answers any questions about what quality the factory engine oil has.
"ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS
A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.
Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.
The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades, refer to “Maintenance Procedures” in “Maintaining Your Vehicle”.
Caution!
Never use Non-Detergent Oil or Straight Mineral Oil in the engine or damage may result.
Note: A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered a normal part of the break-in and not interpreted as an indication of difficulty."
So yeah they say basically not to drive the living [censored] out of it during this time, but also not to drive like miss daisy either.
As for when to change your engine oil, Chrysler says to change it regardless of what the oil change indicator says after 6 months or over 8000 miles.
"NOTE: The oil change indicator message will not monitor the time since the last oil change. Change your vehicles oil if it has been 6 months since your last oil change even if the oil change indicator message is NOT illuminated.
Change your engine oil more often if you drive your vehicle off-road for an extended period of time.
Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 8,000 miles (13,000 km) or 6 months, whichever comes first."
Originally Posted By: jorton
City stop and go driving style puts more stress on the vehicle. Especially brakes and transmission so keep up with routine maintenance on those.
If Jeep puts your driving style in the severe service category you may decide to run short intervals, using conventional oil to save money. If you do do this, consider running 5w-20 or 10w-30 instead of 5w-30 because current formulations are too volatile and too much burns off leaving deposits and soot inside of engines.
You took the words out of my keyboard.
As for break in, it is best to run it hard once it warms up, and to vary the speed as much as possible. The point is to elevate cylinder pressures, so engine breaking followed by hard acceleration is ideal. Although at 400 miles, I would think most of the break-in is already done.
I wouldn't change the recommended oil viscosity on this engine. The cam phasers operate hydraulically. If you live where there is very cold winters (like where i live), you must start the engine and just let it idle for 10 minutes before you drive it. There are engines out now that have oil viscosity sensors and will disable the vehicle to prevent any possible damage. (1.4 liter FIAT Multi Air) Also the FIAT engine will not allow the engine to even start in ambient temperatures below -30C or -35 i cant remember exactly. As for the engine break-in period, i have direct info from Chrysler. (since i work as a tech for them) This also answers any questions about what quality the factory engine oil has.
"ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS
A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.
Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.
The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grades, refer to “Maintenance Procedures” in “Maintaining Your Vehicle”.
Caution!
Never use Non-Detergent Oil or Straight Mineral Oil in the engine or damage may result.
Note: A new engine may consume some oil during its first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation. This should be considered a normal part of the break-in and not interpreted as an indication of difficulty."
So yeah they say basically not to drive the living [censored] out of it during this time, but also not to drive like miss daisy either.
As for when to change your engine oil, Chrysler says to change it regardless of what the oil change indicator says after 6 months or over 8000 miles.
"NOTE: The oil change indicator message will not monitor the time since the last oil change. Change your vehicles oil if it has been 6 months since your last oil change even if the oil change indicator message is NOT illuminated.
Change your engine oil more often if you drive your vehicle off-road for an extended period of time.
Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 8,000 miles (13,000 km) or 6 months, whichever comes first."
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As for the question about synthetic oils,
"Synthetic Engine Oils
You may use synthetic engine oils if the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed."
So even with using synthetic oil, change it every 6 months or 8000 miles (13000 kms) Even if the oil change indicator doesn't come on.
At the dealer, we sell mobil 1.
"Synthetic Engine Oils
You may use synthetic engine oils if the recommended oil quality requirements are met, and the recommended maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes are followed."
So even with using synthetic oil, change it every 6 months or 8000 miles (13000 kms) Even if the oil change indicator doesn't come on.
At the dealer, we sell mobil 1.
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Originally Posted By: Altitude2012
I wouldn't change the recommended oil viscosity on this engine. The cam phasers operate hydraulically. If you live where there is very cold winters (like where i live), you must start the engine and just let it idle for 10 minutes before you drive it. There are engines out now that have oil viscosity sensors and will disable the vehicle to prevent any possible damage. (1.4 liter FIAT Multi Air) Also the FIAT engine will not allow the engine to even start in ambient temperatures below -30C or -35 i cant remember exactly.
Good grief. They're actually doing this? Companies go for low viscosity oils specifically to help the "cold" cycles and fuel economy, then want an engine to idle 10 minutes before driving it in the winters you and I share, or disabling it below -35 C?
Why don't they just revert to manual choke? Or, they could put a 6V electrical system in the thing, which will guarantee unreliability in -35?
Is this 1935? Most of us in North America remember Fiat from a very long time ago. Are they asking us to drive like it was a very long time ago, too?
As an aside, all these vehicles that have maintenance minders also have a time aspect printed in the manual (i.e. 3 months, 6 months, 1 year, whatever). Is it really that difficult to program the maintenance minder with a clock/calendar? Yes, I know batteries get disconnected or die from sitting. Really, though!
I wouldn't change the recommended oil viscosity on this engine. The cam phasers operate hydraulically. If you live where there is very cold winters (like where i live), you must start the engine and just let it idle for 10 minutes before you drive it. There are engines out now that have oil viscosity sensors and will disable the vehicle to prevent any possible damage. (1.4 liter FIAT Multi Air) Also the FIAT engine will not allow the engine to even start in ambient temperatures below -30C or -35 i cant remember exactly.
Good grief. They're actually doing this? Companies go for low viscosity oils specifically to help the "cold" cycles and fuel economy, then want an engine to idle 10 minutes before driving it in the winters you and I share, or disabling it below -35 C?
Why don't they just revert to manual choke? Or, they could put a 6V electrical system in the thing, which will guarantee unreliability in -35?
As an aside, all these vehicles that have maintenance minders also have a time aspect printed in the manual (i.e. 3 months, 6 months, 1 year, whatever). Is it really that difficult to program the maintenance minder with a clock/calendar? Yes, I know batteries get disconnected or die from sitting. Really, though!
I have been running Mobil Clean 5000 5w-30 in ours. I have some of that left, but when its done I am reverting to the Free After Rebate stash- G-Oil and QSUD in 5w-30. I have also been running Mopar filters, but I bought some purolators off of Amazon on sale a while back. 26K or so on our Caravan R/T- runs great.
A car that won't start in -30 isn't good ... we hit that here a few times a year in CNY
Everyone keeps talking about oils, but I'd be more inclined to install a better filter like a PureONE during early break-in miles to do a better job of catching all the junk that a new engine will surely have floating around in its bloodstream.
Originally Posted By: vinsonclarkjeep
Ive just currently purchased a 2012 jeep wrangler jk with the 3.6 pentastar engine. I need you guys to recomend me a good oil and and good break in method? The jeep has 400 miles on it right now and ive been doing alot of mixed city and highway driving trying to vary the rpms. How many miles should i run the factory fill? The engine requires 5w-30 and i would like to run a synthetic so if you guys could share some of your knowledge and point me in the right direction that would be really helpful. Take it easy on me this is my first post. Also my driving habbits are mostly city in stop and go and the rest of it is offroading in 4WDL it may see some highway once a month. Thanks in advance for your help.
vinsonclarkjeep,
Since your Jeep is still under warranty I wouldn't consider switching the factory oil out to a synthetic until you reach the miles give in the manual. Some dealerships are very picky and won't homor the warranty if you tell them your switched the oil.
When I just bought my 01' Durango I used dino for a full year before I switched to a synthetic just for the warranty reasons.
Durango
Ive just currently purchased a 2012 jeep wrangler jk with the 3.6 pentastar engine. I need you guys to recomend me a good oil and and good break in method? The jeep has 400 miles on it right now and ive been doing alot of mixed city and highway driving trying to vary the rpms. How many miles should i run the factory fill? The engine requires 5w-30 and i would like to run a synthetic so if you guys could share some of your knowledge and point me in the right direction that would be really helpful. Take it easy on me this is my first post. Also my driving habbits are mostly city in stop and go and the rest of it is offroading in 4WDL it may see some highway once a month. Thanks in advance for your help.
vinsonclarkjeep,
Since your Jeep is still under warranty I wouldn't consider switching the factory oil out to a synthetic until you reach the miles give in the manual. Some dealerships are very picky and won't homor the warranty if you tell them your switched the oil.
When I just bought my 01' Durango I used dino for a full year before I switched to a synthetic just for the warranty reasons.
Durango
driving a new car hard is not the best way to break in an engine but it might be a good way to break it up..
I don't think there is a true or single best way to break in an engine. I always say do what works for you. I have my method and the next guy has his.
I have this engine in my new Cherokee but it is a lease which will be returned, so I did not break it in the same way I did my past cars I bought. I rode the factory fill to about 4k then had the dealer change it out to whatever they put in it (oil changes are free with my lease). It is closing in on 8k which is the recommended first service, so I will drop it off again to have it changed and put in whatever the dealer decides. So far so good with everything and have not had to add a drop.
I have this engine in my new Cherokee but it is a lease which will be returned, so I did not break it in the same way I did my past cars I bought. I rode the factory fill to about 4k then had the dealer change it out to whatever they put in it (oil changes are free with my lease). It is closing in on 8k which is the recommended first service, so I will drop it off again to have it changed and put in whatever the dealer decides. So far so good with everything and have not had to add a drop.
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