Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Vs Mobil 1 Synthetic Vs AMSoil Signature

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4WD

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Pert Plus or Clorox would dominate those "tests", that in no way means those products are suitable for use in your engine nor are those "tests" in any way representative of how the products perform in your engine.

You can either take the informed advice here from people that actually know what they are talking about, or, you can watch videos of imbeciles doing things to oil that has ZERO correlation to how it performs in your engine and draw spurious conclusions. The choice is yours.

If I asked you to judge the long range performance of two rifles based on how well they worked as hammers, how well do you think that would correlate to their performance at putting lead down range?
😷 Not only that … but you can wash your glasses with Pert and minimize fogging up 😷
 

OVERKILL

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Just my 2¢, I have 2 free oil changes at the dealer for the 2016 CR-V I bought last February and the oil life is down to 30%. When it gets to 20% I'll call for an appointment. I expect the dealer to try to up sell me on engine air filter and cabin air filter and probably a few other things but I will pass on that.

Once the free oil changes are done, I intend to use PUP because it is one of the best when it comes to cleaning and the VVT system has screens that can get clogged. And also PUP has a low NOACK number, even though the K23W Earth Dreams engine does not have problems with carbon building up on the back of the intake valves.

The post about revving the engine high enough to cause the VVT to kick in is something I am going to have to think about. I have been driving this new to me CR-V since February and have put about 3400 miles on it and have never had the RPMs above 4000 and the VVT kicks in at 4600. So maybe I will have to take it on a highway and put it in S mode to get the RPMs up for a little while.

OP, is the engine in your 14 Mustang direct injection? If it is, then the low NOACK number of PUP would be a big plus in keeping intake valve deposits at a minimum.

IIRC, the super low Noack was only when GTL was first introduced. For example, PP 0w-20 tested in 2017 had a Noack of 10.3%:

Platinum High Mileage 0w-20 tested in February of this year had a Noack of 10%:

Mobil 1 High Mileage 0w-20 tested at the same time had a Noack of 9.7%:

Mobil 1 AFE 0w-20 tested in 2017 had a Noack of 10.7%:


IIRC, somebody e-mailed Mobil and got a response that EP 0w-20 was like 8.9%?

I believe the Noack figure vanished from the SOPUS data sheets around the same time it started going up, so it's been a while now.
 
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I don't think it will make $ .10 worth of difference. I've got a '97 Ford I bought new in Feb. 98 that has 41K miles on it and gets an oil change every 5k miles using conventional oil. Over 95% of the time the car is sitting in the garage, when it is started it's usually driven a minimum of 15 miles and often several hundred miles since this is the car I usually take when going on longer trips. By getting it up to operating temperature it will burn off any moisture.

My dad had a car back in the '60's and 70's that was used in about the same way for the first several years he had it, he did 3K mile intervals at the time. When he sold the car probably in the early '80's it had 168K miles and used little if any oil.
 
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IIRC, the super low Noack was only when GTL was first introduced. For example, PP 0w-20 tested in 2017 had a Noack of 10.3%:

Platinum High Mileage 0w-20 tested in February of this year had a Noack of 10%:

Mobil 1 High Mileage 0w-20 tested at the same time had a Noack of 9.7%:

Mobil 1 AFE 0w-20 tested in 2017 had a Noack of 10.7%:


IIRC, somebody e-mailed Mobil and got a response that EP 0w-20 was like 8.9%?

I believe the Noack figure vanished from the SOPUS data sheets around the same time it started going up, so it's been a while now.

Mobil 1 AP 0w20 is 8.9%
Mobil 1 EP 0w20 is 10%
Mobil 1 AP 5w20 is 8.5%

:)
 
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Ahhh, it was AP I was thinking about. Is AP now EP though? Isn't that what happened with the consolidation?

It's my understanding that Mobil 1 AP had a tad more PAO in it than EP. I'm not sure what is going on with EP and whether it is the same formulation or not. Based on MSDS, it appears to be the same EP.
 
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I mentioned average because on the Spanish Youtube guys channel and Russian oil site, the Amsoil numbers tend to be higher than what their data sheets show. However, Mobil, Red Line and Ravenol numbers are always matching or in some cases lower than what their data sheets show. So take these numbers with a grain of salt and there is likely a +/- 1% error.

Several of the Russian guys always claim Mobil's numbers are very accurate to their data sheets.
 
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If you're talking about the non-scientific Project Farm videos, in the mathematical statistical sense, it makes no sense. His methods doesn't make any engineering, scientific or real world sense. You would have to use the exact same methods, equipment/devices and quantities in a testing lab to make any sense. Just change the oil per mfg's OCI. I've used Amsoil, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil on my 1993 Toyota pickup since day one when we bought it brand new in 1993. I tore partially tore apart the engine to replace the timing chain 6 years ago with 60,000 miles and after inspecting the crankcase, pistons, connecting rods at the bottom end and the top end camshaft, valves and rocker arms it was clean and free of sludge. I change at 5,000 miles with Pennzoil and Mobil 1 or 1 year at about 8,000 miles with Amsoil when it was our daily driver. It's real world if you tear apart your engine and inspect for wear and sludge.
 

Scott351W

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BC Canada
Is it true most full synthetic oils are not really synthetic, but still basically advanced dyno oil? I see Amsoil advertises they are 100% synth. Its been suggested we are getting scammed on the full synthetic oils.
 
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Oh please. Is this your only intent in this thread to post this kind of question? That topic is likely one of the top two on this board, it hasn’t been “suggested” it’s been thoroughly beaten to death 487 ways. It’s become obvious you’re only working to get air time here, not have a valid technical discussion to seek information. Stop trolling.
 
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Oh please. Is this your only intent in this thread to post this kind of question? That topic is likely one of the top two on this board, it hasn’t been “suggested” it’s been thoroughly beaten to death 487 ways. It’s become obvious you’re only working to get air time here, not have a valid technical discussion to seek information. Stop trolling.
Sounds like someone else on here. Everything is "fake" synthetic except redline which is "REAL"
 
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