pcv catch can

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Not sure if this is the right section but I would like to add an inline oil catch can for my explorer that somehow loses 1qt of oil in 1500mi. I figure that if the oil is low quality it will evaporate more and into the pcv. My question is that if the oil is taken out of the pcv system, does the intake portion (valves, etc) lack lubrication or is the oil in the intake totally unwanted? The filter I'm going to use is from HF, doesn't get much cheaper than this.

link

The next problem I have is that the pcv valve is a 2 into 1 setup at the back of the motor. It's a pita just to get to it.
 
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Don't worry about removing the oil vapors, they're not needed for anything. Removing them is entirely beneficial. I'm not sure about using that for a catch can, though. There's a lot more to a typical oil separator.

Here is a good example... MANN+HUMMEL ProVent Oil Separator
 
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Good to hear. I have a spare one but it has a regulator. I don't want it to look to jacklegged. It has to be inspected in may but I don't think they'll say anything.
 
You should be able to go back and forth in a minute or so with your new catch can.
So inspection is not a problem, really.
A common air /water separator for $12 works well. Remove the filter and run it BACKWARDS from the arrows.
 
Ok I just got my homemade filter rigged up with the fittings. Do you know how hard it is to go from 1/4" npt to 5/8" barb? For some reason my explorer has 5/8 hose from the valve cover to the intake(stock). Anyway, my plan is to see how much I'm getting then upgrading to a correct catch can.
 
Ebay sells the imitation HKS catch cans that work well.
I put mine in a cooler location to help stuff condense inside the can instead of inside the intake manifold
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
You should be able to go back and forth in a minute or so with your new catch can.
So inspection is not a problem, really.
A common air /water separator for $12 works well. Remove the filter and run it BACKWARDS from the arrows.


What do you mean run it backwards? Everywhere I've read online says to run it with the arrows pointing toward the intake. Are you saying run it with the arrows toward the pcv?
 
Awesome. Imagine that stuff slowly griming up your intake and potentially causing your spark plugs to foul quicker/fuel economy drop...

Hey, wait a second! See if you can note an improvement in the latter and with that much already being caught, I'd imagine you are due for some cleaning at the carb. Wouldn't hurt to look.
 
Every engine ever made with a PCV system exhibits the oil vapor in the cranckase. Every single one.

It's a huge 'non problem'. Causes absolutely no issues for 99% of the cars on the road today.

If you're tuning for power having oil in the intake can cause knock retard, that's when you NEED a catch can.
 
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It's a huge 'non problem'.


It can be a problem if you have a DI engine as many new vehicles do.
The intake valves accumulate crud within 20,000 miles.
A catch can might help prevent that.
 
Since I did tune for power while still retaining ALL (stock location/type/efficiency catcons, EGR system, secondary A.I.R. injection system, etc.) of the factory emissions equipment, I went with a high zoot, billet alloy, air/oil separator from Moroso;

www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=18548

Works great!

I cannot understand why it would ever be emissions illegal though, since you are NOT venting to the atmosphere (as long as the drain valve is closed when the engine is running) like those who put filter vents in place of their oil filler caps.
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If anything, one is causing less air pollution with these since less oil is going into the combustion process, out the exhaust, and NOT killing catcons/o2 sensors.
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Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Every engine ever made with a PCV system exhibits the oil vapor in the cranckase. Every single one.

It's a huge 'non problem'. Causes absolutely no issues for 99% of the cars on the road today.

If you're tuning for power having oil in the intake can cause knock retard, that's when you NEED a catch can.


There are many other problem potentials besides the 'straw man' you set up, to knock down.
Oil and muck in the intake and on the valves are the worst, and crud being ingested in the cylinder is next. Throttle bodies are also vastly improved with a catch can.
 
What the mind believes the eyes see and the ears hear.

What do you say to the MILLIONS of cars that don't run one?

Why aren't they factory installed?

As stated before, every single 4 stroke engine with a vented crankcase does this! How can they run hundreds of thousands of miles without a catch can?

Again, a huge "non problem" that only shows your oil's volatility.
 
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Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
What the mind believes the eyes see and the ears hear.

What do you say to the MILLIONS of cars that don't run one?

Why aren't they factory installed?

As stated before, every single 4 stroke engine with a vented crankcase does this! How can they run hundreds of thousands of miles without a catch can?

Again, a huge "non problem" that only shows your oil's volatility.


I don't have a catch can and never have used one.

Still, when I clean some intakes; after seeing how much oil(whether its the vapors cooling or not) comes through the PCV system into the intake, I always get better performance which is not placebo. The car hesitates more(ever so slightly) when I've let it go a while and it gets grimy again.

It may not hurt the lifespan of the engine, but it could very well affect the MPG/spark plug life etc etc. Anything it touches whether you give it credence or not, may very well shorten the lifespan of "some" ignition related parts or at the very least can affect performance on some vehicles(depending on how far condensed vapors can go back to a gas before entering the combustion chamber.
 
Agreed, but I'm driving a vehicle that is known to have this "problem" of oil build up in the intake manifold. And it's definitely in there. But it does nothing.

I have heard of it causing tuning issues, but not here. That's why I mentioned volatility. It would seem that the owners experiencing issues may need a better oil.

It's very hard to imagine this is a real problem when virtually every car on the road is this way!
 
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