Pat Goss questioned on oil.

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i've always heard the story that it takes a lot more pressure to squeeze sythetic oil out from between two pieces of compressed metal as compared to conventional oil. I forget the exact numbers , but the difference was substantial, at least 10 times the pressure, that would be 1000%. So 700% might be more realistic. I dont think that tells you a whole lot about shear though does it ?. I think those are two different properties if I'm not mistaken.

Joey
 
I think Pat just dropped that number to get us going.
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quote:

Originally posted by Alan:
1. He states one of the major advantages of synthetic oil is it's roughly 700 times stronger then dino in shear strength/stability(ability to stay in the bearings under extreme pressure he was saying).

2. He also stated less engine wear on a cold start due to synthetics being more "slippier".Able to move throught the engine more easily.Less wear at normal operating temperature due to easier flow with a synthetic also.

3. The guy asked if it mattered what brand of snythetic he used,response was something like "no,any one of the major brands is fine".
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4. Another guy called in asking about upping to a 10W40 over a 10W30 due to a slight consumption over a 5K OCI(car had over 270K with M1).He answer basically said that he was sacrificing flow to all the internals over a small oil consumption that was normal in new motors.

5. What say you guys?
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I'll bite...

1. Frankly, I don't care if a full-synthetic has 700 times the shear strength relative a mineral oil. If we were simply using base stocks as engine oils, this would be great. But of course, we don't. I'll take the finished oil with higher HT/HS numbers...that's the one that will provide me with better shear strength and ability to maintain a hydrodynamic film under high loads.

2. Less wear at startup deals with running a low-viscosity oil, and, of course, synthetics have much better low-temperature properties and thus will give you an oil that will "pump-up" easier and faster. Also, the barrier/extreme pressure additive package comes into question. A fluid film doesn't exist (well, at least much of one) in the top end of an engine on cold start, so the additives will be relyed upon to protect the engine.

3. OF COURSE IT MATTERS what kind of synthetic you use...there is no way you can honestly say a cheaply-made GIII like Syntec is the "same oil" as a Amsoil, Redline, Schaffers, etc...

4. Bull...unless you're driving in a racing applicationt that requires extraordinary amounts of flow, any amount of fluid-lubricant flow decrease when swithing to a higher-vis. oil is irrevelant.

5. I say Mr. Goss really doesn't know a great deal about oil...simply sayin' a bunch of B.S. that, as sad as it is, a bunch of people will buy into.
 
I think Pat Goss is very smart when it comes to trouble shooting cars.

It's the oil related questions he answered is what raised my brow
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. I posted it to get your opinions on BITOG.
 
quote:

Originally posted by HondaRD:
...I think it is important to keep in mind that most of his listening audience does not even know what the "W" means on a bottle of oil...

Shoot, I don't even know what the "W" means in "Volkswagen"...
 
quote:

Originally posted by G-Man II:

quote:

Originally posted by quick_16:
So out of all that Goss bashing
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I did not see one expert comment on the technical side of the discussion.
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I'm truly a stupid azz about oil but hanging here with you experts I hope to learn more.
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So would one of you please comment on the 700 times better on shear??? or not. Is that and variable that is measured in a used oil analysis or VOA that can be purchased?


It's hard to comment on something when you're unsure of what he's talking about. If by "shear" he means HT/HS as measured using the standard tests, then he's full of heavy bunker oil. If you compare the HT/HS numbers of Mobil 1 10w30 and regular Pennzoil 10w30 you'll see that they are virtually identical.

There are only TWO distinct advantages to running a synthetic oil in a well-maintained and mechanically sound engine: (1) Extended drains (anything over 3000 miles under "severe" driving conditions, or anything over 7500 miles under "ideal" driving conditions); and (2) for turbocharged applications. That's it. Anything else is marketing BS, hype, or old wives' tales.


G-man II what is HT/HS? Looking at the elements that are included in a std. Blackstone AUTO test I did not see that.????
 
Nobody that knows much is ever going to agree with anybody else all the time. Pat may have stepped in it this time, but I think people are better off with Pat Goss than Click and Clack.
 
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