Has anybody else overseeded/topdressed they're lawn this year? I mowed really short, plugged and spread 40 lbs of Scott's seed this weekend. I then pulled a short section of chain link fence over the seed to distribute them, and have been watering for a day. I haven't spread any fertilizer yet, but will in the next few days. How do you guys plant your grass seed in the late summer/early fall fall?
overseeding the lawn
- Thread starter gman2304
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If I am doing a very tiny spot, I simply roughen up the area with rakes enough to allow seed contact with the soil.
On larger areas, I rent an overseeder/slit seeder and do the job right.
On larger areas, I rent an overseeder/slit seeder and do the job right.
If it's really bad, I rent a thatcher and then broadcast spread the seed...
I usually just broadcast spread the seed and forget about it.
I usually just broadcast spread the seed and forget about it.
I think its best to scratch up the dirt. I have not had good luck when I just tossed out seed. It may make a difference if you bag your grass as you will have less thatch.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
If I am doing a very tiny spot, I simply roughen up the area with rakes enough to allow seed contact with the soil.
On larger areas, I rent an overseeder/slit seeder and do the job right.
+1 If the grass is in generally good health I would use the slice seeder. Does a nice job. I would also recommend starter fertilizer and watering 2x a day. Once in the morning and a second time late afternoon/early evening. Don't water when it is dusk or dark. That'll only increase your chances of lawn diseases etc.
If I am doing a very tiny spot, I simply roughen up the area with rakes enough to allow seed contact with the soil.
On larger areas, I rent an overseeder/slit seeder and do the job right.
+1 If the grass is in generally good health I would use the slice seeder. Does a nice job. I would also recommend starter fertilizer and watering 2x a day. Once in the morning and a second time late afternoon/early evening. Don't water when it is dusk or dark. That'll only increase your chances of lawn diseases etc.
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
If I am doing a very tiny spot, I simply roughen up the area with rakes enough to allow seed contact with the soil.
On larger areas, I rent an overseeder/slit seeder and do the job right.
+1 If the grass is in generally good health I would use the slice seeder. Does a nice job. I would also recommend starter fertilizer and watering 2x a day. Once in the morning and a second time late afternoon/early evening. Don't water when it is dusk or dark. That'll only increase your chances of lawn diseases etc.
I hope you didn't mean to fertilize 2 x/day.
Fertilize once then water twice /day.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
If I am doing a very tiny spot, I simply roughen up the area with rakes enough to allow seed contact with the soil.
On larger areas, I rent an overseeder/slit seeder and do the job right.
+1 If the grass is in generally good health I would use the slice seeder. Does a nice job. I would also recommend starter fertilizer and watering 2x a day. Once in the morning and a second time late afternoon/early evening. Don't water when it is dusk or dark. That'll only increase your chances of lawn diseases etc.
I hope you didn't mean to fertilize 2 x/day.
Fertilize once then water twice /day.
Originally Posted By: Drosselmier
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
If I am doing a very tiny spot, I simply roughen up the area with rakes enough to allow seed contact with the soil.
On larger areas, I rent an overseeder/slit seeder and do the job right.
+1 If the grass is in generally good health I would use the slice seeder. Does a nice job. I would also recommend starter fertilizer and watering 2x a day. Once in the morning and a second time late afternoon/early evening. Don't water when it is dusk or dark. That'll only increase your chances of lawn diseases etc.
I hope you didn't mean to fertilize 2 x/day.
Fertilize once then water twice /day.
Water 2x
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
If I am doing a very tiny spot, I simply roughen up the area with rakes enough to allow seed contact with the soil.
On larger areas, I rent an overseeder/slit seeder and do the job right.
+1 If the grass is in generally good health I would use the slice seeder. Does a nice job. I would also recommend starter fertilizer and watering 2x a day. Once in the morning and a second time late afternoon/early evening. Don't water when it is dusk or dark. That'll only increase your chances of lawn diseases etc.
I hope you didn't mean to fertilize 2 x/day.
Fertilize once then water twice /day.
Water 2x
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Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
The Slit seeder is the best way.
Grass seed that doesn't come in good contact with dirt won't germinate. But the birds probably appreciate it.
Haha you got that right! The birds will eat it up!!
It's happened to me before 
The Slit seeder is the best way.
Grass seed that doesn't come in good contact with dirt won't germinate. But the birds probably appreciate it.
Haha you got that right! The birds will eat it up!!
It's happened to me before You need to mulch it. Lawn care companies use straw. I use compost that I made last year.
Over seeded last year and just did a couple bagged mowings progressively shorter. Spread a bunch of commercial seed with my broadcast fertilizer spread after core araition and watered very frequently for a few weeks. Worked VERY well. Need to start top dressing with compost, though.
I'd be careful with fertilizing seeds as I heard they burn easily.
I'd be careful with fertilizing seeds as I heard they burn easily.
How much is slit seeder rental go for? I put down a bunch of seed earlier in my front yard. Grass looks amazing. Need to do back and sides. Going to rent a seeder to finish up followed by fertilizer.
gman2304
Which type grass seed did you plant?
Which type grass seed did you plant?
Merk, I used the Scott's turf builder 'Southern Gold' tall fescue with with the 'watersmart' coating technology. It's recommended for my area of N.C. It's supposed to retain 2x more water than the uncoated seed. It has only 0.01% of weed seeds and 0% noxious weed seeds. The date also is good through 8/16. I've learned to read the grass seed labels. Some of the seed at Lowes, where I bought mine, was out of date but still for sale.
That's some very expensive grass seed. I hope it does well for you.
Living in an area considered to be a "transition zone" between warm and cool climates, it's not easy to grow tall fescue. I try to overseed my lawn every year in early September. There is a Home Depot near me that rents a slit seeder. I usually have a landscape company do a core aeration because it's only about $90. Then I rent the slit seeder from HD for about $65 for four hours. I've tried just tossing the seed after aeration but it's definitely inferior to using the slit seeder. The slit seeder also slices up thatch and weeds for an added bonus. If I feel energetic I might buy a couple yards of compost and spread it lightly over the lawn right after seeding, which is a lot of work. After seeding I water the lawn everyday for about nine days, and every two days for another week or so. By October my lawn looks like a million bucks, and will come back looking good the next spring too.
Originally Posted By: Joel_MD
Living in an area considered to be a "transition zone" between warm and cool climates, it's not easy to grow tall fescue. I try to overseed my lawn every year in early September. There is a Home Depot near me that rents a slit seeder. I usually have a landscape company do a core aeration because it's only about $90. Then I rent the slit seeder from HD for about $65 for four hours. I've tried just tossing the seed after aeration but it's definitely inferior to using the slit seeder. The slit seeder also slices up thatch and weeds for an added bonus. If I feel energetic I might buy a couple yards of compost and spread it lightly over the lawn right after seeding, which is a lot of work. After seeding I water the lawn everyday for about nine days, and every two days for another week or so. By October my lawn looks like a million bucks, and will come back looking good the next spring too.
If you have to over seed every year, then something is wrong. Turf cultivar (tall fescue vs. turf type tall fescue), soil problems (fertility, physical,etc.), care practices (irrigation, mowing practices), are just some of the things to consider.
Your statements about turf-type tall fescue in Maryland are confusing also. A Google search and a bit of study of your land grant university publications indicates that turf type tall fescue is the BETTER choice for your transition zone. Turf type tall fescue has a reputation of requiring less care, less fert. and water, and is generally very robust.
http://www.marylandturfgrass.org/Welcome.html/tall-fescue/
https://extension.umd.edu/sites/default/...Overseeding.pdf
"Thus the one sod which does well in full sun and partial shade, is resistant to most diseases, maintains a good color and texture even in the summer with a little water, requires less fertility, is resistant to moderate salt spray, and stand up well to moderate traffic from children and pets is Turf Type Tall Fescue."
Living in an area considered to be a "transition zone" between warm and cool climates, it's not easy to grow tall fescue. I try to overseed my lawn every year in early September. There is a Home Depot near me that rents a slit seeder. I usually have a landscape company do a core aeration because it's only about $90. Then I rent the slit seeder from HD for about $65 for four hours. I've tried just tossing the seed after aeration but it's definitely inferior to using the slit seeder. The slit seeder also slices up thatch and weeds for an added bonus. If I feel energetic I might buy a couple yards of compost and spread it lightly over the lawn right after seeding, which is a lot of work. After seeding I water the lawn everyday for about nine days, and every two days for another week or so. By October my lawn looks like a million bucks, and will come back looking good the next spring too.
If you have to over seed every year, then something is wrong. Turf cultivar (tall fescue vs. turf type tall fescue), soil problems (fertility, physical,etc.), care practices (irrigation, mowing practices), are just some of the things to consider.
Your statements about turf-type tall fescue in Maryland are confusing also. A Google search and a bit of study of your land grant university publications indicates that turf type tall fescue is the BETTER choice for your transition zone. Turf type tall fescue has a reputation of requiring less care, less fert. and water, and is generally very robust.
http://www.marylandturfgrass.org/Welcome.html/tall-fescue/
https://extension.umd.edu/sites/default/...Overseeding.pdf
"Thus the one sod which does well in full sun and partial shade, is resistant to most diseases, maintains a good color and texture even in the summer with a little water, requires less fertility, is resistant to moderate salt spray, and stand up well to moderate traffic from children and pets is Turf Type Tall Fescue."
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
The Slit seeder is the best way.
Grass seed that doesn't come in good contact with dirt won't germinate. But the birds probably appreciate it.
Haha you got that right! The birds will eat it up!! It's happened to me before
I spread grass clippings on top of my freshly planted grass seed. That does keep the birds away and the moisture in. Plus it looks way better too!
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
The Slit seeder is the best way.
Grass seed that doesn't come in good contact with dirt won't germinate. But the birds probably appreciate it.
Haha you got that right! The birds will eat it up!!
It's happened to me before I spread grass clippings on top of my freshly planted grass seed. That does keep the birds away and the moisture in. Plus it looks way better too!
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