Not sure why your assuming it's a Head Gasket. I'd buy a new t-stat and hose.
EJs, yes; EZs (the 6s. 3.0,) no.It's a Subaru. They're known for head gaskets
shopping for head gasket sealers now
ChrisFix did a nice video on the Bar's Leak with carbon fiber
I'm considering that one as well as the cheaper K-Seal sealer mentioned in the video
I got the Bar's Leak head gasket sealer with the carbon fiber. After following the instructions, the engine still won't warm up even after an hour! The thermostat doesn't open even at 180-190F!
The heat does get hot, though! The instructions say to turn the heat on full blast, which I did. The thermostat was working when the head gasket blew, as I saw and heard the fans running yesterday!
The engine still won't warm up
The heat does get hot, though
Now I'm a little confused.
If I ever did head gaskets on a Subaru, I’m automatically using Fel-Pro’s PermaTorquePlus Laserweld or the EJ25 turbo ones. No coolant conditioner, it’s a band-aid fix for what is an engineering mistake. Sure, GM and Ford were dropping in Bar’s Leak tabs from the factory but still.
Yep oil pressure switch, pop the alternator which is an 15 min easy job and you can get as it easily. The new OE switch will have thread sealer pre applied do not use rtv or teflon tape in the oil galley circuit.I found this thing underneath the alternator that is wet and not near anything that would leak on it. What is it?
View attachment 86230
You are braver than I. I am not a against Fel-Pro I do use their gaskets on many things but not head gaskets, its not that I have not used them a few times but they failed or they just were not the correct thickness and dropped the compression and with it power.If I ever did head gaskets on a Subaru, I’m automatically using Fel-Pro’s PermaTorquePlus Laserweld or the EJ25 turbo ones. No coolant conditioner, it’s a band-aid fix for what is an engineering mistake. Sure, GM and Ford were dropping in Bar’s Leak tabs from the factory but still.
Trav, I'm intrigued - please explain why poor grounding can cause HG failure. Electrolysis leading to deterioration of the metallic elements in the gasket or the sealing surface of the head? Thanks.I have a bad feeling about this one, this could get real expensive real quick. If it overheated there is a good chance a rod knock could be right around the corner if it isn't already.
The cases may need to be decked as well as the heads planed. then comes the question while it is all apart what other work should be done eg valve job, guides, rings, bearings, line bore the cases, etc.
There is no half stepping when repairing this engine even properly cleaning the case decks and planing the heads using a MLS gasket may not be enough to prevent premature failure of the new HG.
When they overheat the cases expand too much around the crank which allows the crank to get tight, it also twist the cases causing to main bearing bores to go out of alignment.
The cost of machine work is very high today, when I do these for other people I use a brand new Subaru OE short block and have the heads done with 6 stars MLS viton coated HG, absolutly no copper coat.
Another cause for HG failure is broken ground straps from the heads to the frame, I replace them with 1.5" braided plated copper straps as well as adding addition grounds.