Oil suggestion, towing and consumption.

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by VeryNoisyPoet
Originally Posted by dogememe

The oil pressure gauge is fake. The oil pressure switch is just that - a switch, not a sensor. If you have any pressure at all, the PCM generates an oil pressure # based on temperature and RPM... Yes, even the oil pressure PID from an OBD2 scantool is fake. If the switch is defective or there really is no oil pressure the gauge just goes to 0.

Useful info to have, and even worse than I thought. Engine could have critically low pressure even as the gauge happily shows solid pressure, AND the gauge moves as if it were actually hooked to a pressure transducer to fool the user into thinking it's a functional instrument.

It irks me that manufacturers do this type of thing. Pressure transducers are cheap, and they already put effort into designing a gauge cluster with an oil pressure dial. Why not make a useful gauge instead of a mechanical idiot light?!


It makes a lot of sense actually. The average car owner doesn't understand the oil pressure gauge. Slight variances between temperature or something might send them to the dealer with a complaint about the oil pressure.

It's worth noting the TB/Envoy/other vehicles in the platform with the V8 5.3 have real oil pressure gauge... But all 4.2s have the dummy gauges.

 

[CKN]

Originally Posted by Silver
4.2L Chevy Trailblazer I6.
148,000 miles.
Manual says 5w30.

I ran PP 5w30 in this truck until I noticed it started using 1-2 quarts between 10k oci's. I then went to PP high mileage 5w30. I've already used 3 quarts at 7000 into oci. I drive aggressively with frequent high rpm's and tow around 5500 lbs 15 miles 2 or 3 times per month. No leaks at all.

I wonder with the towing of about 5500 lbs and consumption if I should use a thicker oil?

May not be relevant but my timing chain tensioner just failed in some manner after a couple WOT bursts. I'm having it replaced and the truck won't see quite as much high rpm driving!


Thanks
Mike

What is the wheelbase of your Trailblazer? What is the size of trailer you are towing? Your oil consumption may be secondary to what you are doing with your vehicle.

 

[VeryNoisyPoet]

Originally Posted by dogememe
Originally Posted by VeryNoisyPoet
Originally Posted by dogememe

The oil pressure gauge is fake. The oil pressure switch is just that - a switch, not a sensor. If you have any pressure at all, the PCM generates an oil pressure # based on temperature and RPM... Yes, even the oil pressure PID from an OBD2 scantool is fake. If the switch is defective or there really is no oil pressure the gauge just goes to 0.

Useful info to have, and even worse than I thought. Engine could have critically low pressure even as the gauge happily shows solid pressure, AND the gauge moves as if it were actually hooked to a pressure transducer to fool the user into thinking it's a functional instrument.

It irks me that manufacturers do this type of thing. Pressure transducers are cheap, and they already put effort into designing a gauge cluster with an oil pressure dial. Why not make a useful gauge instead of a mechanical idiot light?!


It makes a lot of sense actually. The average car owner doesn't understand the oil pressure gauge. Slight variances between temperature or something might send them to the dealer with a complaint about the oil pressure.

It's worth noting the TB/Envoy/other vehicles in the platform with the V8 5.3 have real oil pressure gauge... But all 4.2s have the dummy gauges.



Why not a jumper wire or programming trick to make the gauge read middle when oil pressure switch detects pressure and 0 when switch does not detect pressure? Why have it respond to RPM and temperature as if it were functional at all? That would have the ignorant people complaining about pressure variation with the gauge moving AND provide false info to the users who do understand an oil pressure gauge.

 

[08z06]

substitute a couple qts of rotella 15-40 with 5 qts. of your regular oil.. i have done that on these before. stops the oil usage in its tracks.

 

[dogememe]

Originally Posted by 08z06
substitute a couple qts of rotella 15-40 with 5 qts. of your regular oil.. i have done that on these before. stops the oil usage in its tracks.


It takes 7 quarts so if OP wanted to try it, a full 5qt jug of whatever 5w-30 he likes and adding half a gallon of 15w-40 would be easy enough...

 

[OilUzer]

Originally Posted by Or



I get twice the consumption with PP vs. M1 head-to-head (e.g., same grade). Partly because PP is a "thin" 10w30, and M1HM is a "thick" 10w30. At $13/5qts after rebate, there's just no reason not to use M1 10w-30HM.


how much is the consumption? 3 fl. oz. or 1.5 qt?
I don't think there is a huge diff between noacks.
Also not huge diff between "thickness" or "thinness" ...

Just curious because my experience with these 2 oils has been very different and not anywhere near this extreme! By end of oci, they both "burned" same amount. Maybe 8-10 fl. oz

Edit:
I used M1 EP which is much better that regular M1. So I am even more surprised that PP consumed twice regular M1!

 

[dave1251]

Cheapest 15W40 with current specs and keep it topped off.

 

[irv]

Originally Posted by OilUzer
Originally Posted by Or



I get twice the consumption with PP vs. M1 head-to-head (e.g., same grade). Partly because PP is a "thin" 10w30, and M1HM is a "thick" 10w30. At $13/5qts after rebate, there's just no reason not to use M1 10w-30HM.


how much is the consumption? 3 fl. oz. or 1.5 qt?
I don't think there is a huge diff between noacks.
Also not huge diff between "thickness" or "thinness" ...

Just curious because my experience with these 2 oils has been very different and not anywhere near this extreme! By end of oci, they both "burned" same amount. Maybe 8-10 fl. oz

Edit:
I used M1 EP which is much better that regular M1. So I am even more surprised that PP consumed twice regular M1!



I call B.S. as well.

I have ran Pennzoil Platinum and/or PUP (5W-20) in my Ram with zero consumptions issues since new. Its a 2013. I have also ran both flavors (5W-30) in my wife's Impala and again, zero consumption issues.
PUP is currently in use in my sons 2008 Malibu (5W-30) and again, zero consumption issues in 2 oil changes.

 

[Silver]

It wasn't the chain tensioner. Truck spun a crank bearing while 3 quarts low (out of 7) on oil. This after running PP in it from 30k to 147k miles and watching the consumption get out of hand. I am well aware it might have happened on another oil, or maybe the consumption would have increased even faster, but I won't be able to make myself put Pennzoil in anything ever again. Well maybe my lawn mower since I've got a quart or two left. Others' experiences do nothing for me.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted by irv
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Originally Posted by Or



I get twice the consumption with PP vs. M1 head-to-head (e.g., same grade). Partly because PP is a "thin" 10w30, and M1HM is a "thick" 10w30. At $13/5qts after rebate, there's just no reason not to use M1 10w-30HM.


how much is the consumption? 3 fl. oz. or 1.5 qt?
I don't think there is a huge diff between noacks.
Also not huge diff between "thickness" or "thinness" ...

Just curious because my experience with these 2 oils has been very different and not anywhere near this extreme! By end of oci, they both "burned" same amount. Maybe 8-10 fl. oz

Edit:
I used M1 EP which is much better that regular M1. So I am even more surprised that PP consumed twice regular M1!



I call B.S. as well.

I have ran Pennzoil Platinum and/or PUP (5W-20) in my Ram with zero consumptions issues since new. Its a 2013. I have also ran both flavors (5W-30) in my wife's Impala and again, zero consumption issues.
PUP is currently in use in my sons 2008 Malibu (5W-30) and again, zero consumption issues in 2 oil changes.


A lot of people just make no sense or they flat out lie.

 

[Alex_V]

Won't hurt it a bit to move up to 10w30.