Oil recommendation to prolong the inevitable

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Yep, still under warranty thank goodness! I looked into this issue even deeper today and on each VVTi controller (1 on each cam) there is a lock pin. When the engine is stopped, oil pressure will drop which will lock the intake cam to the most retarded angle via lock pin and lock the exhaust cam to the most advanced angle for best startability. I'm guessing one of the lock pins may not fully engage during shut down like it should. Partial engagement would probably allow the pin to contact the rotating housing until oil pressure is built up enough to fully disengage the lock pin. I think the pin is either getting stuck or the return spring is out of spec.





I'm guessing you're right. It seems as though Lexus designed this engine a little more complex than necessary. Please keep us up to date; I'd be interested in knowing the final outcome.
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I would consider M1 0W40 wich is available every where their is an AutoZOne in Michihgan. First it is going to flow fater then most oils so pressure will build quickly.Second is a 0W so cold performance is not an issue in Michigan. Third it has a very nice additive package and the EP/AW additives seem to work together very well. We have seen some test results on a multitude of oil's and M1 0W40 did exceptanialy well in so called "plateing up".

My 2003 Camry and my Mother's 2002 Tundra both have that type of VVT-i system. Both vwechiles have run everything from 0W30-15W40 and had no issues.I like 5W40 over 0W40 but a lot of people get scared by 5W40 so try the 0W40 first and see what you think! If you like that then you might consider useing a 5W40 in the future or stay with the 0W40. A nother positive thing for those under warranty is that M1's 0W40 shear's a little so after about 1000 miles or so it will look like a 30Wt. ever anyone tested it and if the oil was tested prior to 1000 miles of use it would barely be in the 40Wt. area and would look like a 30Wt. that had just started to thicken in use. So it is a stealth 0W40!
I even use the 0W40 in my Garden Tractor since I need it to plow my drive way all winter long. The 0W40 let's me start it under it's own power with no need for a boost.

P.S. I live in Mid-Michigan.
 
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Why can't we copy/paste off of a pdf? Does anyone know?




A pdf file is not text. It is essentially an image file, therefore the 'text'appearing in it is part of a larger 'mapped' image, and not susceptible to individual extraction.
Later versions of Adobe Reader (Adobe invented PDF format) do allow the extraction of text from the images, by means of sophisticated internal processes to 'unencrypt' the image file back to it's original source, but you have to be in a sutable version of Adobe Reader to do it...
 
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I would consider M1 0W40 wich is available every where their is an AutoZOne in Michihgan. First it is going to flow fater then most oils so pressure will build quickly.Second is a 0W so cold performance is not an issue in Michigan. Third it has a very nice additive package and the EP/AW additives seem to work together very well. We have seen some test results on a multitude of oil's and M1 0W40 did exceptanialy well in so called "plateing up".

My 2003 Camry and my Mother's 2002 Tundra both have that type of VVT-i system. Both vwechiles have run everything from 0W30-15W40 and had no issues.I like 5W40 over 0W40 but a lot of people get scared by 5W40 so try the 0W40 first and see what you think! If you like that then you might consider useing a 5W40 in the future or stay with the 0W40. A nother positive thing for those under warranty is that M1's 0W40 shear's a little so after about 1000 miles or so it will look like a 30Wt. ever anyone tested it and if the oil was tested prior to 1000 miles of use it would barely be in the 40Wt. area and would look like a 30Wt. that had just started to thicken in use. So it is a stealth 0W40!
I even use the 0W40 in my Garden Tractor since I need it to plow my drive way all winter long. The 0W40 let's me start it under it's own power with no need for a boost.

P.S. I live in Mid-Michigan.




I am confused, why would anyone be scared of a 5W-40 but not a 0W-40?
 
I fail to see how oil will fix a mechanical problem.

Better throw in some Valvoline SAE 30 to be sure. Wait, SAE 40 will leave a thicker oil film. Yup, better make it SAE 50 for superior cold start film thickness protection.

Seriously, if there is a mechanical issue with a pin in the VVTI actuator, oil isn't gonna fix it.
 
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