Oil Recommendation Please

[swordfish]

I have a 2010 Toyota Tundra rock warrior with 14000-ish miles on it and would like to get an oil reco from some of the experts here. I've read through a lot of the info on the site but I'm having trouble narrowing the selection. I have been having the dealership change the oil because I got free lifetime oil changes from them when I bought the truck.

I am now becoming worried about what kind of recycled oil mess they are putting in my truck. The engine is noisy (this happened after the last oil change)... even my wife notices it. She's a gear head too because we have had road race cars and sports cars as well as a garage full of MX bikes. I have also been reading on some of the tundra forums where people are having issues with the dealerships actually not changing the filters on the 5.7L. I've usually changed my own oil but with the free changes I've slacked on this truck.

Here are a few of the details on the truck and reco's from toyota.

1. 2010 Toyota Tundra Rock Warrior 5.7L 4x4
2. From the manual the recommended oil is 0W20 or 5W20 ILSAC Multigrade
3. I live in northwest Arkansas. It does not really get that cold here. We may see 0 degree F once or twice a year
4. I am an easy driver but the truck does go off road from time to time. Nothing like rock crawling or off road trails, just some dirt roads and sand when getting to some of our MX riding spots. I also tow a 14 ft enclosed trailer from time to time. Maybe once every two months.
5. Daily drive is short city driving. 5 miles to work... 5 miles back.
6. Never had any issues with the truck other than the engine seeming to be very noisy. It's not spun rod rod bearing noisy or anything ridiculous, but noisy enough to bother me. Think high mileage mitsubishi 4G63 with HLA noise.

As far as oil preferences go I have had success with Redline and Amsoil in our race cars as well as mobil 1. In my bikes I use Lucas. It's the best oil I've ever UOA'd in a bike... ever. I ride hondas so I even use lucas motor oil in the transmissions and it has cut clutch wear by at least 70%.

Thanks for any info you may have for me.

jeff

 

[hate2work]

That's the worst part about liftime oil changes, you always wonder if it was done right and with what oil. As you know, Amsoil and Red Line both make excellent stuff, you really couldn't go wrong with either one.

If I had to choose, I'd probably use the Amsoil ASM.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: swordfish
I have a 2010 Toyota Tundra rock warrior with 14000-ish miles on it and would like to get an oil reco from some of the experts here. I've read through a lot of the info on the site but I'm having trouble narrowing the selection. I have been having the dealership change the oil because I got free lifetime oil changes from them when I bought the truck.

I am now becoming worried about what kind of recycled oil mess they are putting in my truck. The engine is noisy (this happened after the last oil change)... even my wife notices it. She's a gear head too because we have had road race cars and sports cars as well as a garage full of MX bikes. I have also been reading on some of the tundra forums where people are having issues with the dealerships actually not changing the filters on the 5.7L. I've usually changed my own oil but with the free changes I've slacked on this truck.

Here are a few of the details on the truck and reco's from toyota.

1. 2010 Toyota Tundra Rock Warrior 5.7L 4x4
2. From the manual the recommended oil is 0W20 or 5W20 ILSAC Multigrade
3. I live in northwest Arkansas. It does not really get that cold here. We may see 0 degree F once or twice a year
4. I am an easy driver but the truck does go off road from time to time. Nothing like rock crawling or off road trails, just some dirt roads and sand when getting to some of our MX riding spots. I also tow a 14 ft enclosed trailer from time to time. Maybe once every two months.
5. Daily drive is short city driving. 5 miles to work... 5 miles back.
6. Never had any issues with the truck other than the engine seeming to be very noisy. It's not spun rod rod bearing noisy or anything ridiculous, but noisy enough to bother me. Think high mileage mitsubishi 4G63 with HLA noise.

As far as oil preferences go I have had success with Redline and Amsoil in our race cars as well as mobil 1. In my bikes I use Lucas. It's the best oil I've ever UOA'd in a bike... ever. I ride hondas so I even use lucas motor oil in the transmissions and it has cut clutch wear by at least 70%.

Thanks for any info you may have for me.

jeff


Who knows what the dealer is putting in? Could be 5W-20, 5w30, or even 10w30. Wouldn't even surprise me if it was 10W-40. Some dealers will use the cheapest bulk oil they can get. I would suggest you get the appropriate oil and filter and get the oil changed. See if that changes the noises you are hearing?

Actually, a better course of action might be to 1st file a formal warranty claim to get it on record that this problem occured after a dealer oil change. Take it in and say ever since you changed the oil the engine is making noises it never has before. Get it in writing on the warranty repair order.

As far as brands and 0W or 5W-20 that is up to you. Plenty of good conventional 5W-20 and synthetic 0W/5W-20 oils out there that will do a good job for you. Just make sure seeing as you have a 2010 that they meet your warranty requirements. Especially with engine noises in the mix( give them no excuse to not fix a problem down the road ).

As to the brands you mentioned( i.e. Amsoil and Redline ). They are both excellent but have issues with warranty requirements in new vehicles. Redline carries no API or mfg certifications of any kind so I would say not to use it under warranty( nothing against the oil itself = great stuff ). Amsoil has a couple lines that have no certifications and a couple that have API certification. SSO/ASM/ASL are great but carry no certifications like the Redline. Not the ones to use until warranty is out. Their XL and OE lines are API certified and I am sure would meet or exceed any Toyota oil spec so they are ok to use.

 

[Oregoonian]

Here are my recomendations (suggestions).

1. Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20 - for longer OCI
2. Mobil 1 5w20
3. Pennzoil Platinum 5w20
_____________________________________
2003 Foed Focus (2.3L Duratec) / 92K
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20 / 1 year or 10K +/-
Filter: Mobil 1 Extended Performance

 

[chubbs1]

As said above RL and AMSOIL ASM are NOT API Certified. I would use a 5w20...PP, PU, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, M1. Or Castrol EDGE 5w30. It is a thin 30 and will shear to a 20 anyway in your truck (most likely). I would go with one of those. Save your money. All the oils I mentioned will keep your truck running very well.
NOTE: There are many other fine oils (conventional) that you could use also. Stick with the name brand API oils in recommended weight for now. Also keep changes in the recommended SEVERE SERVICE OC. schedule because of the short driving distances, get out on the Highway every once and a while and cruise for 30-40+ mins.

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
I would suggest you get the appropriate oil and filter and get the oil changed. See if that changes the noises you are hearing?
X2. Since they are eating the oil and filters I'm sure they are cutting corners as much as possible.

I'd get your favorite brand of oil that passes the Toyota specs and a Toyota filter. Put that in it and see if it's better.

 

[qdeezie]

I feel like any good 0w-20 or 5w-20 will be good and make sure you get a quality oil filter that has a silicone anti drainback valve. The key is you do it yourself and you then know what is in your truck. I generally don't trust anyone to do my oil changes, even if it is free. I think a lot of people on this site will agree with me on that. Go with the brand you like, but use the OEM recommended weight. You don't need a heavier weight due to your location.

 

[swordfish]

Thanks everyone. Looks like I'm not the only one who doesn't trust the stealership.

jeff

 

[HBCALI]

"As to the brands you mentioned (i.e. Amsoil and Redline). They are both excellent but have issues with warranty requirements in new vehicles."

That can be true. Specifically, I've heard first-hand that AMSOIL warranty coverage can be hard to obtain if you file a claim. An AMSOIL user I know had an issue and was basically given the brush-off without even the courtesy of a claim investigation (which he probably deserved as a loyal customer).

But I suppose there's loads of red tape with any oil when it comes to payment of a claim. You'll probably even get some static from your car's OEM warranty if you need to call upon it. Nothing new. IMHO, just stick with a product that mitigates your risk - primarily top shelf, brand name oil that has the money and resources to stay updated with the changing automotive market.

 

[HBCALI]

IMHO, dealerships (in general) shouldn't be viewed as a scam. There's a number of responsible dealers that have worked hard to change that image and keep pricing realistic. But like most of us, I remember the days when dealers were absolutely a rip-off and acted on your fear that anyone else "would destroy your car". Some may still be a joke, but others have done well to change the stereotype.

For example, in my neck of the woods, the dealer charges roughly the same amount as Firestone or any other service provider. Call around for service bids and you'll probably see about the same prices between the dealer and other well-known service shops.

Look, If you’re worried about the oil the dealer uses, bring your own! My Toyota dealer charges $10 for labor when I bring my own oil and filter. Great deal when you compare what a full-service synthetic change costs elsewhere. Even better deal when you don't have the time to change it yourself.

 

[miker1]

Amsoils two new oils, the OE and the new XL 10,000 mile oils are API approved oils and are cost effective.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: miker1
Amsoils two new oils, the OE and the new XL 10,000 mile oils are API approved oils and are cost effective.


I said that