Synthetic Oil/Additive recommendation to keep seal soft/rejuvenate

2000Trooper

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In the 4 cylinder Toyota Truck community many of us are having issues with the oil pick up tube seal drying out & deforming. You can see what the seal looks like new versus coming out of the truck. This is on older 2.7 2TR-FE motors and not the new turbo motors. Issues with cold start oil pressure arise anywhere from 80-120k miles.

I’m betting today’s heavy PAO bases are likely to be the culprit. From what I could gather searching on here, old mineral based oils prevented this by keeping the rubber soft, and esters can react with the rubber in a similar way. Where as PAOs don’t due to their non polar nature, and dry it out.

With that said, what % of ester in the base will be adequate to keep seals in a healthy condition? What about to rejuvinate the seal? I know manufacturers like to skimp out on esters due to cost so “synthetic” oils have a wide spectrum of ester levels.

Could an oil change with an ester heavy oil like Motul 8100 get an old seal back on shape? Or is it wishful thinking? There is a member on another forum that claims switching to Mobil 1 stop the issue for him completely.

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There are many more knowledgeable people here than me, but these days most synthetics, even the boutique ones, are based on Group III Base stocks. So the likelihood of PAO being the culprit is low in my opinion. With that said, maybe a high mileage blend may be the ticket for you?

From the picture, the seal is definitely deformed, but what is the material like? Is is dry and cracked or is it really soft and squishy? I wonder if you may be looking at a situation of too much seal softener. But that's really hard to tell from here.
 
Without looking to additives as to be honest I usually don't keep my cars long enough to try many additives as problem fixers. I think most "high mileage" oils regardless of brand is where you'll find seal conditioners added into the formula. So maybe try a few "High Mileage" oils regardless of brand Mobil 1, Pennzoil, etc... and see if one of them works for ya after a bit.
 
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I don't think one can easily find a pao heavy on a shelf, but even then, they must be balanced with conditioners.
I would consider a high milage oil for extra conditioning effect. Quaker state or valvoline seems to be the best options. Mobil 1 High Mileage has negative user testimonials, including mine
 
I wished the pictures were in focus, it’d give us a little more to work off of. But that looks like it was either a defective seal, improper installation or potentially caused by a seal sweller chemical. If the seal was shrinking or hardening up, it shouldn’t be expanding and creating waviness like the picture shows. That seal looks like something made it swell ant some point and then later dried up.
 
You don't want to use any additives that swell seals as that causes issues down the road and effects all the seals in the motor which you don't want. The safest and one with the least side effects would be any high mileage oil. The 2nd option, and I have used it on hundreds of customer vehicles as well as my own, is Blue devil oil stop leak. It conditions seals like lotion does to our skin. It doesn't swell seals. It is a good product. Autozone and others sell it.

https://www.bluedevilautocaresolutions.com/product/BlueDevil-Oil-Stop-Leak-49499
 
You don't want to use any additives that swell seals as that causes issues down the road and effects all the seals in the motor which you don't want. The safest and one with the least side effects would be any high mileage oil. The 2nd option, and I have used it on hundreds of customer vehicles as well as my own, is Blue devil oil stop leak. It conditions seals like lotion does to our skin. It doesn't swell seals. It is a good product. Autozone and others sell it.

https://www.bluedevilautocaresolutions.com/product/BlueDevil-Oil-Stop-Leak-49499
Does it require periodic retreatment?
 
I would take accurate measurements of the seal and replace it with one made out of Kalrez, this stuff is not affected by chemicals, oils, basically anything you can think of throwing at it.
Try giving this place a call and ask what exact Kalrez material and if they have the size you need.

https://www.aceseal.com/materials/kalrez-orings
I was going to suggest getting a perfluoroelastomer o-ring. Grainger may have one if you know the size. Some may be listed as Teflon, though that's a specific trademark.
 
You don't want to use any additives that swell seals as that causes issues down the road and effects all the seals in the motor which you don't want. The safest and one with the least side effects would be any high mileage oil. The 2nd option, and I have used it on hundreds of customer vehicles as well as my own, is Blue devil oil stop leak. It conditions seals like lotion does to our skin. It doesn't swell seals. It is a good product. Autozone and others sell it.

https://www.bluedevilautocaresolutions.com/product/BlueDevil-Oil-Stop-Leak-49499
BD came in a close 2nd to AT-205 losing by a tad to softening of the rubber and nearly a tie for O-ring thickness after 2 hours of high heat. Some are using BD or 205 along with an oil change using Rottella 5w/40w T6 diesel oil and claim it aids in stopping the leaks plus cleans out ccvs on BMWs built into the valve cover. My experience was without the Rotella and AT-205 stopped most leaks but for one bolt leak on low point of valve cover. Next up is Rotella with BD or 205.
 
I can’t explain why, or even how. But, my son’s new to him 17 Titan had a valve cover leak bad enough to warrant a repair. We tried pennzoil syn high mileage and it laughed and leaked more, although still not bad enough to smell it or even leave more than a few drops in the drive. With the weather so cold we changed the oil using Valvoline hybrid, cleaned everything off with brake clean and it looks to be gone. Got me! It may rear its ugly head later, but later may be warmer.
 
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