Thanks for the all of the info
Oil recommendation: 1997 Lexus LS400 (1UFZE) 124k
- Thread starter cwlesq
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Originally Posted By: raytseng
I've had a 1990 ls400 until i traded it in under cash for clunkers.
The problems with 1Gen Lexus is less about the engine and oil than other things. Any 5w-30 should serve you well with 5k intervals.
What you have to worry about most is:
1) power steering fluid system uses the vaccuum system with a valve that gets stuck open; so you are losing PS Fluid (which inevitably is getting burned in the engine.
If you end up this issue, having this slow flow of dextron going into your combustion chamber is going to make more of a difference and make more of a mess with deposits and power than the fine tuning you are doing with the oil. So watch out for that. If you get hit by this, there are ways to plug the leak, then use fuel injector cleaner addditive to clean up the deposits. Google ls400 power steering leak if this happens to research the issue.
2) also watch out for trans fluid, drain and fill regularly.
3) Interior the LCD displays for your radio/AC will die out.
4) Suspension will need some replacement for wear parts. If it is air suspension, this will fail and be cost-prohibitive to repair, but there are retrofit kits to change this to a more reliable spring suspension.
There are a couple good lexus forums:
www.clublexus.com
http://www.lexusownersclub.com/
Originally Posted By: raytseng
I've had a 1990 ls400 until i traded it in under cash for clunkers.
The problems with 1Gen Lexus is less about the engine and oil than other things. Any 5w-30 should serve you well with 5k intervals.
What you have to worry about most is:
1) power steering fluid system uses the vaccuum system with a valve that gets stuck open; so you are losing PS Fluid (which inevitably is getting burned in the engine.
If you end up this issue, having this slow flow of dextron going into your combustion chamber is going to make more of a difference and make more of a mess with deposits and power than the fine tuning you are doing with the oil. So watch out for that. If you get hit by this, there are ways to plug the leak, then use fuel injector cleaner addditive to clean up the deposits. Google ls400 power steering leak if this happens to research the issue.
2) also watch out for trans fluid, drain and fill regularly.
3) Interior the LCD displays for your radio/AC will die out.
4) Suspension will need some replacement for wear parts. If it is air suspension, this will fail and be cost-prohibitive to repair, but there are retrofit kits to change this to a more reliable spring suspension.
There are a couple good lexus forums:
www.clublexus.com
http://www.lexusownersclub.com/
Great info. Toyota ATF only right?
I've had a 1990 ls400 until i traded it in under cash for clunkers.
The problems with 1Gen Lexus is less about the engine and oil than other things. Any 5w-30 should serve you well with 5k intervals.
What you have to worry about most is:
1) power steering fluid system uses the vaccuum system with a valve that gets stuck open; so you are losing PS Fluid (which inevitably is getting burned in the engine.
If you end up this issue, having this slow flow of dextron going into your combustion chamber is going to make more of a difference and make more of a mess with deposits and power than the fine tuning you are doing with the oil. So watch out for that. If you get hit by this, there are ways to plug the leak, then use fuel injector cleaner addditive to clean up the deposits. Google ls400 power steering leak if this happens to research the issue.
2) also watch out for trans fluid, drain and fill regularly.
3) Interior the LCD displays for your radio/AC will die out.
4) Suspension will need some replacement for wear parts. If it is air suspension, this will fail and be cost-prohibitive to repair, but there are retrofit kits to change this to a more reliable spring suspension.
There are a couple good lexus forums:
www.clublexus.com
http://www.lexusownersclub.com/
Originally Posted By: raytseng
I've had a 1990 ls400 until i traded it in under cash for clunkers.
The problems with 1Gen Lexus is less about the engine and oil than other things. Any 5w-30 should serve you well with 5k intervals.
What you have to worry about most is:
1) power steering fluid system uses the vaccuum system with a valve that gets stuck open; so you are losing PS Fluid (which inevitably is getting burned in the engine.
If you end up this issue, having this slow flow of dextron going into your combustion chamber is going to make more of a difference and make more of a mess with deposits and power than the fine tuning you are doing with the oil. So watch out for that. If you get hit by this, there are ways to plug the leak, then use fuel injector cleaner addditive to clean up the deposits. Google ls400 power steering leak if this happens to research the issue.
2) also watch out for trans fluid, drain and fill regularly.
3) Interior the LCD displays for your radio/AC will die out.
4) Suspension will need some replacement for wear parts. If it is air suspension, this will fail and be cost-prohibitive to repair, but there are retrofit kits to change this to a more reliable spring suspension.
There are a couple good lexus forums:
www.clublexus.com
http://www.lexusownersclub.com/
Great info. Toyota ATF only right?
ATF for this transmission is Toyota Type IV. It is considered "conv" fluid and cheap from toyota given the importance of this system, especially if you buy in case.
Changing trans fluid as a drain/fill is similar if not easier than changing the oil. You won't get all the fluid per change, (2qts)which is 1/5th of total, so it is a gentle refresh. So if you are handy enough to DIY this, this is very inexpensive maintenance that can yields big savings in preventative costs.
Fluid for Power Steering is Dextron compatible. No need for Toyota specific fluid, that spec is now 20years old. Since my LS400 was leaking, I just grabbed whatever since it would just blow through anyway.
For my newer Lexus' powersteering that don't leak(which also call for dex II or III) I use whatever modern synthetic Dextron ATF at parts store with the shinest label.
(I just use suction to just drain and fill the reservoir periodically when I do an oil change).
If you happen to want to stop by Toyota for fluid, you should also pick up toyota LL coolant (red). Coolant and ATF are the specific fluids I would recommend you stick with genuine Toyota fluids.
All the other stuff you can use "upgraded" modern replacements from other brands at the parts store.
Another fluid change not yet mentioned is Diff Fluid. I think it's worthwhile for you to use the latest and greatest modern synthetic there, it's unlikely that has been changed.
Changing trans fluid as a drain/fill is similar if not easier than changing the oil. You won't get all the fluid per change, (2qts)which is 1/5th of total, so it is a gentle refresh. So if you are handy enough to DIY this, this is very inexpensive maintenance that can yields big savings in preventative costs.
Fluid for Power Steering is Dextron compatible. No need for Toyota specific fluid, that spec is now 20years old. Since my LS400 was leaking, I just grabbed whatever since it would just blow through anyway.
For my newer Lexus' powersteering that don't leak(which also call for dex II or III) I use whatever modern synthetic Dextron ATF at parts store with the shinest label.
(I just use suction to just drain and fill the reservoir periodically when I do an oil change).
If you happen to want to stop by Toyota for fluid, you should also pick up toyota LL coolant (red). Coolant and ATF are the specific fluids I would recommend you stick with genuine Toyota fluids.
All the other stuff you can use "upgraded" modern replacements from other brands at the parts store.
Another fluid change not yet mentioned is Diff Fluid. I think it's worthwhile for you to use the latest and greatest modern synthetic there, it's unlikely that has been changed.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
There is a member here who has the same gen LS400 who does 10K changes on "whatever" synthetic and has, I believe, 280K on the car.
Use any 5W-30 on reasonable drain intervals, and that Toyota V-8 should run for many more miles.
These were really good cars, from what I have seen and heard.
I'm sure that you and your better half will enjoy the car over a number of years and miles.
That's me.
My 1994 LS400 has more than 280k miles now, it had various brands dino with 6-7k/6mo OCI and once a year oil filter. When it had synthetic(M1, PP, Synpower ...) the OCI was double to 12-14k/12mo and 1 oil filter.
The engine consumes 1/2 quarts of oil every 3-4k miles since new, with dino I didn't bother to top off, just change the oil when it downed near add line and it was about 6-7k miles. I topped off with syn at 3-4k miles then again at 6-7k miles.
The UFZE engine is almost bullet proof, it ran on any oil but the thinner the better.
There is a member here who has the same gen LS400 who does 10K changes on "whatever" synthetic and has, I believe, 280K on the car.
Use any 5W-30 on reasonable drain intervals, and that Toyota V-8 should run for many more miles.
These were really good cars, from what I have seen and heard.
I'm sure that you and your better half will enjoy the car over a number of years and miles.
That's me.
My 1994 LS400 has more than 280k miles now, it had various brands dino with 6-7k/6mo OCI and once a year oil filter. When it had synthetic(M1, PP, Synpower ...) the OCI was double to 12-14k/12mo and 1 oil filter.
The engine consumes 1/2 quarts of oil every 3-4k miles since new, with dino I didn't bother to top off, just change the oil when it downed near add line and it was about 6-7k miles. I topped off with syn at 3-4k miles then again at 6-7k miles.
The UFZE engine is almost bullet proof, it ran on any oil but the thinner the better.
The NAPA Gold filter for our 4.0 engine is an excellent one, as well! Very inexpensive when on sale, as is the air filter.
Most Lexus Dealerships will run the VIN and let you know when the timing belt service was last done: if not, go ahead and have it done. An OUNCE of prevention is worth POUND$ of cure. I was able to get virtually all service records for my SC400 from a very accommodating Dealer in PDX.
As far as oil is concerned I would, as many have opined, use whatever synthetic 5W-30 is on sale (or, better yet, "FREE! after Rebate") for a couple shorter, say 5K OIC's, then, if you are really serious about extending it beyond 7.5K why not give the AMSOIL HDD 5W-30 a try.
This oil has shown quite a few truly outstanding oil analysis results: I don't doubt this would be the case with y(our) engine.
Staying with the GEN-U-INE Toyota coolant, brake fluid, PS fluid made sense to me: I put AMSOIL in the diff and probably won't ever have to change it again.
Cheers!
p.s. Be assured I would be "practicing what I preach" (and probably will!) but it's going to have to be after I've used up the stash of 5w-30 synthetic (PP & SynPower) I've accumulated: even at 5K OCI's it takes a while to use up 6 gallons!
Cheers II !
Most Lexus Dealerships will run the VIN and let you know when the timing belt service was last done: if not, go ahead and have it done. An OUNCE of prevention is worth POUND$ of cure. I was able to get virtually all service records for my SC400 from a very accommodating Dealer in PDX.
As far as oil is concerned I would, as many have opined, use whatever synthetic 5W-30 is on sale (or, better yet, "FREE! after Rebate") for a couple shorter, say 5K OIC's, then, if you are really serious about extending it beyond 7.5K why not give the AMSOIL HDD 5W-30 a try.
This oil has shown quite a few truly outstanding oil analysis results: I don't doubt this would be the case with y(our) engine.
Staying with the GEN-U-INE Toyota coolant, brake fluid, PS fluid made sense to me: I put AMSOIL in the diff and probably won't ever have to change it again.
Cheers!
p.s. Be assured I would be "practicing what I preach" (and probably will!) but it's going to have to be after I've used up the stash of 5w-30 synthetic (PP & SynPower) I've accumulated: even at 5K OCI's it takes a while to use up 6 gallons!
Cheers II !
Originally Posted By: cwlesq
Thanks for the all of the info
Definitely make sure the timing belt/water pump service was done on the Lexus. The LS400 was the top of the line Lexus that was built to beat every other luxury car made around the world. It is an extremely reliable over built car. They did many special things to the LS400. I read that they even weighed each piston that went into each LS400 motor and all the pistons had to weigh exactly the same weight before the motor was assembled. The LS400 I bought with 293,000 miles on it ran like new. It is a special car. I just want you to know that you can get many more miles out of that Lexus if you properly maintenance that car. That car is worth it.
Since many older Lexus cars have automatic transmission issues around 240 thousand miles I will tell you what my friend who owns a transmission shop told me. I asked him when he changes the trans fluid in his personal cars. He said he services the automatic transmissions in his own cars every 15 thousand miles due to transmission fluid gets very worn out at around 30,000 miles. This depends on the vehicle and how hot you actually get the transmission fluid. A 4x4 could burn transmission fluid up and wear it out withing 500 miles by getting the trans fluid too hot. He does not recommend a power flush due to that can force small particles into the transmission on an older car and cause serious shifting problems. He recommends just the regular trans service fluid and filter change which only gets out 1/2 of the old trans fluid. This is why he changes his every 15 thousand miles, because he is only getting 1/2 of the old fluid out of the car every time he does it. He said transmissions last an extremely long time servicing them this way when the car is taken care of.
I have been servicing the automatic trans in my 2003 Cavalier this way for the past two years because the car has 170,000 plus miles on it. It runs like new and I do not want the trans to go out on me since I plan on driving it well over 200,000 miles.
Thanks for the all of the info
Definitely make sure the timing belt/water pump service was done on the Lexus. The LS400 was the top of the line Lexus that was built to beat every other luxury car made around the world. It is an extremely reliable over built car. They did many special things to the LS400. I read that they even weighed each piston that went into each LS400 motor and all the pistons had to weigh exactly the same weight before the motor was assembled. The LS400 I bought with 293,000 miles on it ran like new. It is a special car. I just want you to know that you can get many more miles out of that Lexus if you properly maintenance that car. That car is worth it.
Since many older Lexus cars have automatic transmission issues around 240 thousand miles I will tell you what my friend who owns a transmission shop told me. I asked him when he changes the trans fluid in his personal cars. He said he services the automatic transmissions in his own cars every 15 thousand miles due to transmission fluid gets very worn out at around 30,000 miles. This depends on the vehicle and how hot you actually get the transmission fluid. A 4x4 could burn transmission fluid up and wear it out withing 500 miles by getting the trans fluid too hot. He does not recommend a power flush due to that can force small particles into the transmission on an older car and cause serious shifting problems. He recommends just the regular trans service fluid and filter change which only gets out 1/2 of the old trans fluid. This is why he changes his every 15 thousand miles, because he is only getting 1/2 of the old fluid out of the car every time he does it. He said transmissions last an extremely long time servicing them this way when the car is taken care of.
I have been servicing the automatic trans in my 2003 Cavalier this way for the past two years because the car has 170,000 plus miles on it. It runs like new and I do not want the trans to go out on me since I plan on driving it well over 200,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: Moab
cwlesq said:
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Originally Posted By: cwlesq
They did many special things to the LS400. I read that they even weighed each piston that went into each LS400 motor and all the pistons had to weigh exactly the same weight before the motor was assembled.
That's called balancing and actually used to be quite common in OEM channels. All the Ford 302HO's were factory balanced. Tear one apart and you'll find the rod caps are all numbered and have been ground on so that the rods are the same weight, same goes for the pistons.
However, in more recent years the move has been to bulk-fit rods and pistons (cracked powder rods, bulk bin pistons) that this process is no longer applied to. Though I believe it is still used on the Hi-Po engines.
They did many special things to the LS400. I read that they even weighed each piston that went into each LS400 motor and all the pistons had to weigh exactly the same weight before the motor was assembled.
That's called balancing and actually used to be quite common in OEM channels. All the Ford 302HO's were factory balanced. Tear one apart and you'll find the rod caps are all numbered and have been ground on so that the rods are the same weight, same goes for the pistons.
However, in more recent years the move has been to bulk-fit rods and pistons (cracked powder rods, bulk bin pistons) that this process is no longer applied to. Though I believe it is still used on the Hi-Po engines.
OMG, we are still getting posts warning about the 'power flush' of an auto trans. Where? I have yet to see any powered flushing machines anywhere, even after personally stopping into dozens and dozens of shops along my many routes (I drive 60-70k miles per year).
A regular trans fluid exchange is an excellent idea and cannot force any particles anywhere if done properly.
A regular trans fluid exchange is an excellent idea and cannot force any particles anywhere if done properly.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
OMG, we are still getting posts warning about the 'power flush' of an auto trans. Where? I have yet to see any powered flushing machines anywhere, even after personally stopping into dozens and dozens of shops along my many routes (I drive 60-70k miles per year).
A regular trans fluid exchange is an excellent idea and cannot force any particles anywhere if done properly.
lol, my personal mechanic recommended me to avoid using "leaded" gasoline and use unleaded from now on.
Also, stay away from "bias" or "ply" tires. Radials are the way to go.
That's what he does on his personal cars, so it is good advice.
OMG, we are still getting posts warning about the 'power flush' of an auto trans. Where? I have yet to see any powered flushing machines anywhere, even after personally stopping into dozens and dozens of shops along my many routes (I drive 60-70k miles per year).
A regular trans fluid exchange is an excellent idea and cannot force any particles anywhere if done properly.
lol, my personal mechanic recommended me to avoid using "leaded" gasoline and use unleaded from now on.
Also, stay away from "bias" or "ply" tires. Radials are the way to go.
That's what he does on his personal cars, so it is good advice.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
OMG, we are still getting posts warning about the 'power flush' of an auto trans. Where? I have yet to see any powered flushing machines anywhere, even after personally stopping into dozens and dozens of shops along my many routes (I drive 60-70k miles per year).
A regular trans fluid exchange is an excellent idea and cannot force any particles anywhere if done properly.
You still get Ram and F150 owners that bash GM truck owners because GM trucks have drum breaks in the rear. Although in a light duty pick up I see where having rear drum breaks could be beneficial but lets not let "performance" get in the way of perception.
OMG, we are still getting posts warning about the 'power flush' of an auto trans. Where? I have yet to see any powered flushing machines anywhere, even after personally stopping into dozens and dozens of shops along my many routes (I drive 60-70k miles per year).
A regular trans fluid exchange is an excellent idea and cannot force any particles anywhere if done properly.
You still get Ram and F150 owners that bash GM truck owners because GM trucks have drum breaks in the rear. Although in a light duty pick up I see where having rear drum breaks could be beneficial but lets not let "performance" get in the way of perception.
The toyota dealer here has a machine that hooks up to the trans lines. It drains and fills simultaneously while the car is running. The machine is specifically designed not to flush or push containment out of the torque converter into the valve bodies or other areas of the tranny that could be damaged.
Tranny flush= bad
Tranny drain/fill= good
Tranny flush= bad
Tranny drain/fill= good
Last edited:
T-tec machine is safe if properly operated.
but my thoughts:
Tranny drain/fill= DIY and free for the home mechanic, easy to perform often and more periodically.
Tranny flush= expensive (compared to free), requires mechanic and specialized equipment, can only afford to do this intermittently.
but my thoughts:
Tranny drain/fill= DIY and free for the home mechanic, easy to perform often and more periodically.
Tranny flush= expensive (compared to free), requires mechanic and specialized equipment, can only afford to do this intermittently.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
OMG, we are still getting posts warning about the 'power flush' of an auto trans. Where? I have yet to see any powered flushing machines anywhere, even after personally stopping into dozens and dozens of shops along my many routes (I drive 60-70k miles per year).
A regular trans fluid exchange is an excellent idea and cannot force any particles anywhere if done properly.
You still get Ram and F150 owners that bash GM truck owners because GM trucks have drum breaks in the rear. Although in a light duty pick up I see where having rear drum breaks could be beneficial but lets not let "performance" get in the way of perception.
Good point. Note that our fleet Silverados with drum brakes go a LOT longer without brake work. Those old drums are very reliable and cheaper to own.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
OMG, we are still getting posts warning about the 'power flush' of an auto trans. Where? I have yet to see any powered flushing machines anywhere, even after personally stopping into dozens and dozens of shops along my many routes (I drive 60-70k miles per year).
A regular trans fluid exchange is an excellent idea and cannot force any particles anywhere if done properly.
You still get Ram and F150 owners that bash GM truck owners because GM trucks have drum breaks in the rear. Although in a light duty pick up I see where having rear drum breaks could be beneficial but lets not let "performance" get in the way of perception.
Good point. Note that our fleet Silverados with drum brakes go a LOT longer without brake work. Those old drums are very reliable and cheaper to own.
Originally Posted By: raytseng
T-tec machine is safe if properly operated.
but my thoughts:
Tranny drain/fill= DIY and free for the home mechanic, easy to perform often and more periodically.
Tranny flush= expensive (compared to free), requires mechanic and specialized equipment, can only afford to do this intermittently.
You need ZERO specialized equipment. A bucket and a piece of rubber hose.
Hook the hose up to the output line from the trans (after the cooler if possible) and place in bucket, start engine, the instant you see air bubbles, stop engine. Add the same amount removed, repeat till clean fresh fluid comes out.
Could not be much simpler.
I used to own a B&G "trans flush" machine I bought at an auction. It was nothing but a cabinet with a set of containers to hold the old and new fluid and a sight glass to watch the color through.
It's only real value was the dozens of adapters to fit almost any car!
T-tec machine is safe if properly operated.
but my thoughts:
Tranny drain/fill= DIY and free for the home mechanic, easy to perform often and more periodically.
Tranny flush= expensive (compared to free), requires mechanic and specialized equipment, can only afford to do this intermittently.
You need ZERO specialized equipment. A bucket and a piece of rubber hose.
Hook the hose up to the output line from the trans (after the cooler if possible) and place in bucket, start engine, the instant you see air bubbles, stop engine. Add the same amount removed, repeat till clean fresh fluid comes out.
Could not be much simpler.
I used to own a B&G "trans flush" machine I bought at an auction. It was nothing but a cabinet with a set of containers to hold the old and new fluid and a sight glass to watch the color through.
It's only real value was the dozens of adapters to fit almost any car!
Originally Posted By: raytseng
ATF for this transmission is Toyota Type IV. It is considered "conv" fluid and cheap from toyota given the importance of this system, especially if you buy in case.
I would only use Toyota's, Amsoil or Red Line in AT.
Changing trans fluid as a drain/fill is similar if not easier than changing the oil. You won't get all the fluid per change, (2qts)which is 1/5th of total, so it is a gentle refresh. So if you are handy enough to DIY this, this is very inexpensive maintenance that can yields big savings in preventative costs.
I change mine every 10K when I drain the oil. 2 qts come out and 2 qts go in.
Fluid for Power Steering is Dextron compatible. No need for Toyota specific fluid, that spec is now 20years old. Since my LS400 was leaking, I just grabbed whatever since it would just blow through anyway.
For my newer Lexus' powersteering that don't leak(which also call for dex II or III) I use whatever modern synthetic Dextron ATF at parts store with the shinest label.
(I just use suction to just drain and fill the reservoir periodically when I do an oil change).
I use Amsoil Synthetic in all my Lexus Power Steering.
If you happen to want to stop by Toyota for fluid, you should also pick up toyota LL coolant (red). Coolant and ATF are the specific fluids I would recommend you stick with genuine Toyota fluids.
Agree again. I will only use the Red Toyota Coolant along with Distilled Water.
All the other stuff you can use "upgraded" modern replacements from other brands at the parts store.
Another fluid change not yet mentioned is Diff Fluid. I think it's worthwhile for you to use the latest and greatest modern synthetic there, it's unlikely that has been changed.
I use either Amsoil or Red LIne in the rear differential.
The one thing I would add is to change the brake fluid every 2-3 years. I also use the Japan made oil filter. It,s the one with the foam/sponge filter material. 90915-20004
ATF for this transmission is Toyota Type IV. It is considered "conv" fluid and cheap from toyota given the importance of this system, especially if you buy in case.
I would only use Toyota's, Amsoil or Red Line in AT.
Changing trans fluid as a drain/fill is similar if not easier than changing the oil. You won't get all the fluid per change, (2qts)which is 1/5th of total, so it is a gentle refresh. So if you are handy enough to DIY this, this is very inexpensive maintenance that can yields big savings in preventative costs.
I change mine every 10K when I drain the oil. 2 qts come out and 2 qts go in.
Fluid for Power Steering is Dextron compatible. No need for Toyota specific fluid, that spec is now 20years old. Since my LS400 was leaking, I just grabbed whatever since it would just blow through anyway.
For my newer Lexus' powersteering that don't leak(which also call for dex II or III) I use whatever modern synthetic Dextron ATF at parts store with the shinest label.
(I just use suction to just drain and fill the reservoir periodically when I do an oil change).
I use Amsoil Synthetic in all my Lexus Power Steering.
If you happen to want to stop by Toyota for fluid, you should also pick up toyota LL coolant (red). Coolant and ATF are the specific fluids I would recommend you stick with genuine Toyota fluids.
Agree again. I will only use the Red Toyota Coolant along with Distilled Water.
All the other stuff you can use "upgraded" modern replacements from other brands at the parts store.
Another fluid change not yet mentioned is Diff Fluid. I think it's worthwhile for you to use the latest and greatest modern synthetic there, it's unlikely that has been changed.
I use either Amsoil or Red LIne in the rear differential.
The one thing I would add is to change the brake fluid every 2-3 years. I also use the Japan made oil filter. It,s the one with the foam/sponge filter material. 90915-20004
Sorry to bring up an old topic but
I'm going to see and test a 1991 LS400 on Saturday. It has 120k miles on the clock and apparently everything works and it has a full service history. If it is OK and we can agree on the price I will buy it.
The 5W-30 is even still a bit "obsolete" over here ie. there are several 0W-30/40 and 5W-40 oils available but not that many 5W-30 oils. The genuine GM 5W-30 and Ford 5W-30 are available and some other A1/B1 oils. Then there is Castrol but they are expensive.
In absense of reasonably priced quality 5W-30 oils would M1 0W-40 or the Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 be OK or should I just try to swallow the higher price of 5W-30 oils?
I take it that 120k miles on this luxury barge is nothing to be concerned about?
I'm going to see and test a 1991 LS400 on Saturday. It has 120k miles on the clock and apparently everything works and it has a full service history. If it is OK and we can agree on the price I will buy it.
The 5W-30 is even still a bit "obsolete" over here ie. there are several 0W-30/40 and 5W-40 oils available but not that many 5W-30 oils. The genuine GM 5W-30 and Ford 5W-30 are available and some other A1/B1 oils. Then there is Castrol but they are expensive.
In absense of reasonably priced quality 5W-30 oils would M1 0W-40 or the Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 be OK or should I just try to swallow the higher price of 5W-30 oils?
I take it that 120k miles on this luxury barge is nothing to be concerned about?
How often and when does the timing belt and water pump have to be changed on this engine? Just curious...
These sound nice maybe I will start looking for one. I need an affordable car for the winter.
These sound nice maybe I will start looking for one. I need an affordable car for the winter.
I personally consider the older Lexus cars to be as owner-friendly as my all-time favorites, the W126 Mercedes of that same era. Very sophisticated engineering (for the time) and still easy (and able) to be actually worked upon by the owners.
Not necessarilly cheap re: parts but most are still available and the cars are good for many, many 100K's of use.
Just IMHO and through personal experience.
Cheers!
Not necessarilly cheap re: parts but most are still available and the cars are good for many, many 100K's of use.
Just IMHO and through personal experience.
Cheers!
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
How often and when does the timing belt and water pump have to be changed on this engine? Just curious...
These sound nice maybe I will start looking for one. I need an affordable car for the winter.
According to a Lexus forum it is in UK 100000 km/6 years and in Holland 150000 km/6 years -> check for your country.
They mentioned that Mk1 and Mk2 would be non-interference engines but I cannot vouch for that.
How often and when does the timing belt and water pump have to be changed on this engine? Just curious...
These sound nice maybe I will start looking for one. I need an affordable car for the winter.
According to a Lexus forum it is in UK 100000 km/6 years and in Holland 150000 km/6 years -> check for your country.
They mentioned that Mk1 and Mk2 would be non-interference engines but I cannot vouch for that.
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