OIL recommandation for stop & Go & short trips car

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I have volvo 850, now I am using this car for short trips and in lots of stop & go driving.
Everyday on an average I have start/stop car about 10 times.
1) is there any motor oil which provides better protection for such environment?
2) Car has 106K miles, Can I switch to synthetic (if at all useful for my scenario?)
3) What should the OCI be for this car?

The car has 106K miles on it, Auto-Rx done at 99K miles. Car burns oil @ 1qt per 1000 miles. car has seen only conventional oil @ 3000miles OCI (I normally go by milage not time, but at least 2-3 oil changes per year).

Many Thanks
Nitin
P.s: I am total newbie with oils so please suggest brand name
 
My wife had a 95. Great car. Well your after something that meets VW503.00 spec oil or a VW503.01 spec. I would use Mobil 1 5w40 in that car. Further I would recommend 5000K or 6 month OCI's. Many conventional oils also meet the VW specs and the SM oils are outstanding. Castrol High Mileage meets VW specs and would also be a great choice. Same OCI's with the Castrol High Mileage. I'm sure others will chime in....I would be very comfortable with either the Monil1 or the Castrol High Mileage 40 weights in that car with 5000 mile or 6 month oil change intervals. Keep the air filter clean....my wifes was (for some reason...design maybe) always full of bugs and "stuff"
smile.gif
 
I also have an 850 which sees mostly short trips along with towing a couple of times a year. I don't drive as much as I use to, or start the car as frequantly as you do, but...

To aid in mileage and to decrease starter effort to a degree, some have suggested to use the lighter weight of oil recommened for this engine (5w30 below 60degF, 10w30 above, 5w-40 for the entire range IIRC). Without getting the oil up to temp means that the oil never really thins to it's rated viscosity (212 degF), so the pump robs you of a little more power - miniscule however. Not getting things up to temp also means that condensation and fuel could be loading the sump volume (take the long way home from time to time, and/or change the oil more often). Since you've mentioned that the engine consumes oil, one may find that this recommendation may work against them. Consumption may be a result of stuck piston rings, blow-by and ingestion through the PCV system, etc.

What oil and weight have you been using? Have you inspected the PCV system, and was there any change in consumption after the ARX treatment? Any leaks?

Take care.
 
Almost forgot - I've used Mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30, 0w-40, Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40, Castrol GTX/HM 5w30 and 0w30 GC. They've all worked well, though seal issues have me using Castrol's HM formula at present, and the 5w30 weight variety to reduce mileage penalties.

If doing used oil analysis, remember that the maing bearings are aluminum and NOT lead, so don't assume that low lead numbers lead you to think that you have enough protection viscosity wise.

Is the engine normally aspirated or turbo charged?
 
Maxlife in whatever weight is right for your climate IMO. Great oil for older HM vehicles, with a nice dose of PAO and fantastic add pack. Running it in my wife's PT Cruiser which is used short trips only, and it loves it. Quieted the engine down, and runs much smoother than the GTX that was in in previously.
 
Thanks everyone.
Presently I am using 76 brand 10-30 oil. the pcv system seems fine for now, I don't see any fumes from oil dip stick, but @ 12 years I am sure its nearing end. Its expensive on volvo, most mechanics quoted me about 4 hrs labor + parts for pcv change.
After Arx my oil consumtion went bit higher, I assume ARX cleaned up grunk near seals which is causing all the leaks.

Is it worthwile & safe to switch to synthetic oil at 106K ?

I read an intersting thing today about on havolines web site that Havoline Deposite Shield keeps PCV system clean? Is it really true?
 
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