OCI changes due to very short trips

[djateohate]

My daily commute is about to change drastically.

I used to drive 65 miles round trip on the freeway to get to work. I will soon be driving 6 miles round trip to the bus stop instead. My main motivation is to save $1800 and 15,000 miles per year.

What (if any) changes should I make to my OCI and other fluid change intervals due to only have 2 short, 3 mile trips each day? The car (1998 BMW 323is with 120k miles) barely has time to warm up.

 

[Johnny]

What was you oil change interval when you drove the 65 mile round trip?

And

to BITOG

 

[aquariuscsm]

I`m the same way. I live very close to my job,so close that if I didn`t have to wear a suit and tie,I`d just hop on my mountain bike every day and ride it to work. I always just go by the 3000/3 month oci (the 3 month always comes first). Even if it`s overkill,that`s what the owner`s manual states to do no matter the driving conditions.

 

[djateohate]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
What was you oil change interval when you drove the 65 mile round trip?


Well….

I bought the car with 101k miles and the Oil service light came on at 107k. I changed the oil and filter with a Mann filter and BMW branded 5w30 synthetic.

Then I waited for the oil change light to come on again. That took 10,000 miles! So my last interval was 10k miles. At that point (117k miles) I put in another Mann filter and more BMW oil.

My plan was to switch to GC 0w30 oil and a 5k OCI.

The car does compute its own OCI based on cold starts and driving style, but it usually comes up with pretty long intervals. I got a 10k miles OCI last time due to the vast majority (90%) of my driving being a 60mph cruise on the highway.

 

[sw99]

I drive my Jeep less than 3k a year. I do yearly oil changes in the spring with quality 5w30 conventional and call it good. I prefer the 5w30 over the spec'd 10w30 due to the fact that I do only very short weekly trips (less than 1 mile usually).

 

[Johnny]

Your plan of GC at 5k sounds good. Continue with the Mann filters.

 

[02zx9r]

same boat. used to be 62 miles round trip, now 4 miles. I still do little trips here and there on the highway so I might still hit 5K before the 6 month deal.

But if not I would change out every 6 months. Have seen and heard where people (like sw99) do yearly oil changes with no problems. I could never go that long between intervals as I simply love changing my oil to much, it would drive me crazy.

Like others have mentioned (buster, jag, pablo, many others) severe service like this it is usually wiser to err on the cautious side and do the old 3K/3 month routine to get the impurities out of your motor and keep clean fresh oil in there. In that case I would use the cheaper conventional oils. Mobil drive clean at my walmart is the only one under $2/quart.

Sometimes you can find cheaper oil even cheaper with clearances and sales.

Everyone's opinion is just that-opinions. Is really about what you want to do and what makes you feel better. Yes it is ok to get people's opinions and recommendations on what to do that makes the most sense, reasoning wise and money wise

 

[Louie's gone fishing]

How often will you use the car other than commuting and what would that use be? This information might be of use in planning your oci. As mentioned above, erring on the conservative side we be a good idea. You would still be saving over your previous commute. GC is a very good choice as is the Mann filter. You might consider a used oil analysis after a couple of 5k oil changes to settle down the changes made. After all this you should have a schedule that you can stick with.

 

[chet2]

i think it is a good idea to let engine warm up for 5 minutes at least to burn off condensation on short trips

 

[Louie's gone fishing]

"i think it is a good idea to let engine warm up for 5 minutes at least to burn off condensation on short trips"

Except in extreme cold what makes you think that it's a good idea? What would it do in moderate weather that would be a benefit?

 

[deven]

Use the BMW LL-01 oil and change it when the OLM tells you. Dont change a thing is what I am saying.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: djateohate
The car does compute its own OCI based on cold starts and driving style,

Actually, the OCI in your car is based on the amount of fuel consumed.

BTW, I will be in the same boat pretty soon - 2 miles to work one way. But I will try to go on a longer drive on the weekend, just to help burn off moisture condensation. Either that, or I should just start taking a bus to work...

 

[ThirdeYe]

Back when I had my Altima it only saw short trips for the most part. Between .5 and 5 miles one way, mostly. Rarely ever took it for a long drive on the highway. I just changed it with conventional Valvoline at 3k regardless of the time it took to get there. Usually 6-8 months. I changed the oil in that car maybe 3-4 times in the 2 years I had it. No sludge or varnish when I sold it at 128k. Ran great, and the engine sounded/ran just as good as new.

 

[02zx9r]

Originally Posted By: Louie's gone fishing
"i think it is a good idea to let engine warm up for 5 minutes at least to burn off condensation on short trips"

Except in extreme cold what makes you think that it's a good idea? What would it do in moderate weather that would be a benefit?


yes, let it idle for 5 minutes to burn off condensation, only to add fuel into the oil.

Only way to get the condensation and fuel and other garbage out of the oil is to run it on the highway so the oil can come up to optimum temps and stay there for a while so it can burn off, or change the oil.

 

[sunfire]

Originally Posted By: 02zx9r

Only way to get the condensation and fuel and other garbage out of the oil is to run it on the highway so the oil can come up to optimum temps and stay there for a while so it can burn off, or change the oil.


Would changing to a lighter grade oil (0W-20 or 5W-20) in a Japanese car that recommends 5w30 help with condensation and fuel dilution?

And how to do I know when the car is at optimal temperature? When the temp gauge is in the middle? Because my temp gauge always gets to the middle about 7-10 minutes into my short stop and go city 20 min commute. Am I still getting fuel dilution?

I have a 05 Corolla and Pennzoil Platinum 10W30 + PureOne and next OC will be YB 5W-20 PurePlus.

 

[02zx9r]

unless you have an oil temperature gauge you are more than likely looking at the coolant temp guage, which will always come up to temps long before the oil.

usually takes around 20 miles or 30 minutes for the oil temp to come up to optimal temps (which i believe now adays is around 210-212F (at least for motorcycle engines that is the case) assuming cars would be the same.)

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: sunfire
Originally Posted By: 02zx9r

Only way to get the condensation and fuel and other garbage out of the oil is to run it on the highway so the oil can come up to optimum temps and stay there for a while so it can burn off, or change the oil.


Would changing to a lighter grade oil (0W-20 or 5W-20) in a Japanese car that recommends 5w30 help with condensation and fuel dilution?

And how to do I know when the car is at optimal temperature? When the temp gauge is in the middle? Because my temp gauge always gets to the middle about 7-10 minutes into my short stop and go city 20 min commute. Am I still getting fuel dilution?

I have a 05 Corolla and Pennzoil Platinum 10W30 + PureOne and next OC will be YB 5W-20 PurePlus.


My 2005 Corolla the water temp gauge sits just below 1/2 mark from 140-200 degrees. Does not more a needle between those temps. Once the coolant gets above 200-210 the gauge moves to a little above 1/2.

Never had it over 211 degrees so I don't know what the gauge shows. But my point is the in dash gauge is not that accurate.

I'd say *if* you have any fuel issues (doubt it) you'd need at least 30 mins *ONCE* the oil temp has stabilized which would be after a 20-30 min run at consistent speed.

I do not feel changing to a lighter oil will help with either water or fuel.

Also, you will be messing with your 5 year 60k mile warranty from Toyota if you use a 20wt oil. (You may have more than 60k.. I blew past 60k within 2 years

)

Take care, bill

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
unless you have an oil temperature gauge you are more than likely looking at the coolant temp guage, which will always come up to temps long before the oil.

usually takes around 20 miles or 30 minutes for the oil temp to come up to optimal temps (which i believe now adays is around 210-212F (at least for motorcycle engines that is the case) assuming cars would be the same.)


You`re right on about the oil temp. My 86 300ZX turbo had an oil temp gauge as well as an oil press gauge and even despite being a turbo charged car,it took a while for the oil temp gauge to warm up.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: 02zx9r
... Only way to get the condensation and fuel and other garbage out of the oil is to run it on the highway so the oil can come up to optimum temps and stay there for a while so it can burn off, or change the oil.

It takes about ten miles of driving to get oil up to temperature before you start to burn off condensation. Unless you're going somewhere, it would be cheaper to change the oil earlier than to burn expensive gas just to condition the oil.

 

[PT1]

My commute is the same 6 miles of stop n go. I am using PP/wix filter 5000 oci. FWIW my olm gets to 10% at 5000. Your plan with GC & 5000 oci sounds good to me.