Oil Recomendations

[ohms]

Hi all,

I wanted an oil recomendation for my car and I'm having real difficulty finding the best brand and grade for my application. I read the sticky, so here goes...

1. What kind of vehicle you have

1992 Nissan Skyline GTR 2.6 Twin Turbo with High lift cams and stronger valve springs. High ZDDP??

2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well

Owners manual states 7.5w30 SG rated oil but that's standard and only 300BHP 3000 mile OCI

3. Where you live
UK

4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
It's is not a daily driver and gest used hard. It runs 550BHP.

5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)

It gets warmed up properly and oil temps get to about 200 degrees, long trips with lots of full throttle redline action. It's my adrenalin fix.

6. Whether your car has any known problems

Car is OK at present but the RB engine is renowned for spun bearings at high load rpms. Fuel diltuion seems to be quite high as the oil always smells of fuel. Not bothered about OCI just want the best protection and film strength possible for my highly stressed engine!

Thanks all

 

[HTSS_TR]

Mobil1 15W50 is probably fit your need, but is a little for winter when temperature is below 0F (-15C). If the car is garaged and you do not drive hard right after you start the engine in the morning then it will be fine.

 

[dparm]

I would run something like Motul 300V. You can get 5w30, 5w40, 15w50, and so on.

There are a few motorcycle oils that are good too but I don't want to go too crazy with a recommendation. Also, since you're in the UK, there's a few oils you can probably get that we can't.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

i assume most tuner guys run some sort of 40wt instead of a 30wt and if they are still getting spun bearings then i would definately agree on the 50wt. if fuel dilution is a problem then you're probably going to change it out within 3000 miles anyways. either mobil 1 15w50 or if you want a little better cold cranking abilities you can try the redline 5w50 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=135&pcid=21 i take it that its the RB26DETT?

 

[Steve S]

Nice car!!!

 

[ohms]

Yep, RB26dett.

I would like an oil with High ZDDP to help prevent top end wear, or would I be better buying soemthing like redline break-in additive?

I have some Mobil 1 0w-40, but am a bit dubious about putting it in due to the fuel dilution issue. The motor has 80K on it as well, so...

 

[sangyup81]

how bout Royal Purple?

 

[ohms]

The tuners suggest 10w-60 presumably that is just a safeguard against the dreaded knock issues? But is it overkill in my application. My car runs an oil cooler and temps stay really cool by comparison to most.

I was looking at Liqui moly 10w-60...any good??

 

[dparm]

It's okay. There's better oils.

I strongly urge you to look at Motul 300V 15w50. It's a race oil that's suitable for the street.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

Originally Posted By: dparm

I strongly urge you to look at Motul 300V 15w50. It's a race oil that's suitable for the street.


+1

a 15w50 seems like it will be good enough, give it a try. if you have oil coolers then that greatly helps, whats your max oil temps you see? 10w60 seems a bit thick and honestly the wider the grade gap (10 to 60 = 50) the more additives have to be added and the more it will sheer out of grade.

i assume you'll be changing it out within 3-4k anyways so i cant imagine fuel dilution getting too out of hand, if it does then theres something likely wrong somewhere letting that much fuel get past unburnt. it'd also be a good move to do a used oil analysis and see how your current oil is handling it (wear metal count, viscosity change, fuel dilution, etc) and go from there.

thats just my opinion though.

 

[ohms]

Thanks Guys... Motul 300V 15w-50 it is.

Max temps I've seen thus far have been 90 degrees c or 194F, but I've only just got the car so haven't been using it as I would like, need to get the oil changed, then we'll see.

Any recomendation for filters?? K&N or Wix

Also, just been looking and I can get 300V 15w-50 4T bike oil cheaper, is it the same, or should I steer clear???

Thanks again

 

[Lethal1ty17]

194F on your oil seems decently low for a twin turbo pumping out 580bhp. what about when you really get on it and have some fun? 220F? 240F?

K&N probably flows the best, i heard royal purple makes a decent filter, most guys around here are a big fan of the purolator pureone's. they are cheap at $6 each and have a really good filtration rating.

i beleive bike oils are formulated differently but i cant remember, i'd stick with something purpose designed for automotive engines.

also, for sheer convenience im sure mobil 1 15w50 is more easily obtained and cheaper for you to get ahold of considering many walmarts and auto parts stores will carry it, which will save you money on shipping. im pretty sure it could handle whatever you can throw at it but its up to you.

 

[dparm]

Royal Purple filters are definitely a step up from most other off-the-shelf ones. K&Ns are a bit overpriced but definitely good quality.


The 4T bike oil will be fine if push comes to shove. I actually use the 300V 4T bike oil (easier to get). There are some differences but it's not going to hurt anything. Plenty of online retailers for automotive 300V -- check your local speed shops, they can probably get it too. Perhaps ordering a case of it can get you a discount? Probably smart since you'll be changing it often.


Have you had the car on a track? That will be a good indicator of max oil temps. Going WOT for a few seconds on the street won't really do it -- 20 minutes of repeated WOT will.

 

[mechtech2]

Obviously, you should use OHM's Law to determine your oil!


Stay away from light energy conserving oils.
You are smart to consider your valve train.
Anything from HDEOs to specialty racing oils are better.
Also consider the cheap and excellent Lubro Moly additive.

Only 200 deg F on the oil? That is pretty cool for a even a stock average car. I'd think it could get up to 220+ at least.

 

[Ben99GT]

Red Line 5W-40

 

[ohms]

Oil temps have been really low on the street, which is not surprising as it runs a pretty big HKS oil cooler. It just isn't going to be possible on the road to get the oil temps any higher. I don't plan on tracking the car at present, so...

Don't think I mentioned that the car doesn't run cats.

Just been looking at Redlines 15w40 diesel oil. It seems to be packed with ZDDP and Moly, but could the high ash cause problems? Anybody had any experience with this and how deso it compare to the regular PCMO oils in respect of ZDDP and MOLY?

I have looked at the MOS2 additive, would it be worth investing in some.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: ohms
Also, just been looking and I can get 300V 15w-50 4T bike oil cheaper, is it the same, or should I steer clear???


You seemed to be concerned about not having enough anti-wear and friction modifying/reducing additives.

In that case I would steer clear of the 4T stuff, and go for the automotive competition 300V product, since some good additives are left out of the bike stuff (due to wet clutch function).

Everyone else; he is in jolly ol' England, every performance shop in that country probably has the whole Motul line right on it's shelves (along with Silkolene/Fuchs, Elf, Repsol, etc.), so NO worries about shipping/ordering and such.

 

[ohms]

Ok, that's the 4T out then...But man, I'd got a good deal on some...Really, really cheap. Almost half the price of the regular car 300V

You'd be amazed, decent oil in local stores is as rare as hens teeth here in the UK...It's always a mail order only purchase, or Ebay special.

I can get Redline oil without probs, but how does it compare to the 300V. I want high moly and ZDDP.

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: ohms
Ok, that's the 4T out then...But man, I'd got a good deal on some...Really, really cheap. Almost half the price of the regular car 300V

You'd be amazed, decent oil in local stores is as rare as hens teeth here in the UK...It's always a mail order only purchase, or Ebay special.

I can get Redline oil without probs, but how does it compare to the 300V. I want high moly and ZDDP.



Yes, I am suprised that you don't have 'boutique' oils sitting on the shelves, considering all of the varied enthusiasts in your country.

Red Line may well have a good deal more moly and ZDDP than 300V (even the automotive versions, DEFINITELY more than the 4T stuff).

But I do not know for sure since I have not seen a recent VOA of 300V automotive oils.

Maybe someone out there knows for sure, d00df00d?, dparm?, anyone??

BTW; is Red Line much less expensive than Motul/Silkolene, etc. in England, like it is here??

 

[dparm]

Motul 300V has a decent amount of moly already. I've never seen a VOA but the used oil analysis show a hefty amount.