Which oil? 3 cars, short trips

I would go with either Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 or Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. Possibly the new Mobil 1 Advanced clean. My goal is to get my pistons clean and keep them that way with an easily off the shelf oil from Walmart.

I upped from 0W-20 to 5W-30 Valvoline Restore and Protect in my Pilot based on the short trips and fuel dilution. After about 5k the viscosity drops to top of the 20 range.

There are multiple documented carbon/ring issues from what I consider honest, respected and respectful members here. That was with them using what was always presumed to be "good" full synthetic oils but still developed oil burning.
^This. Normal “standard” wear rate largely doesn’t matter. Ring cleanliness is what matters. That’s what kills most engines.

Preventing the cascade of sludge buildup, pcv failure, ring sticking, excessive cylinder wear, and oil consumption is key.
 
I wonder how we were ever able to get an engine over 100,000 miles with regular conventional oil.
Many with 3k changes. Many that we just accepted would burn oil if it didn't already leak a lot and we all carried at least 1 full quart in the trunk to keep it topped off.

Different designs, different tolerances, different demands from the oil, carburetors not GDI, PCV's in valve cover easy to replace or use a breather.
 
I cannot comment on the Toyota. If maintaining max fuel economy for it is the primary goal, sticking with 0w20 may be the best option. I've had 8 mazdas and 5 had skyactiv engines. They all got a diet of Quaker State Full Synthetic 0w20. when under warranty (excepting the turbo CX5 which got the recommended 5w30 but also QS full syn). As warranties expired I switched to 5w30 in each car to become a one grade family. I did not experience any significant reduction in mpg in any of the cars with the switch. QS tends to have a little more moly content which Mazda factory oil has in spades and seems to promote. QS is readily available at Walmart and is priced less (sometimes significantly) than many other respected oils. I use Mazda filters pretty much exclusively. I buy a half dozen at a time and get them for around 10 to 11 bucks each on line. Last order I received the japanese made filter for that price when I was expecting the made in Thailand filter (still pretty good quality). In a pinch I have used MicroGard Select from O'Reillys (another well made filter).
 
I cannot comment on the Toyota. If maintaining max fuel economy for it is the primary goal, sticking with 0w20 may be the best option. I've had 8 mazdas and 5 had skyactiv engines. They all got a diet of Quaker State Full Synthetic 0w20. when under warranty (excepting the turbo CX5 which got the recommended 5w30 but also QS full syn). As warranties expired I switched to 5w30 in each car to become a one grade family. I did not experience any significant reduction in mpg in any of the cars with the switch. QS tends to have a little more moly content which Mazda factory oil has in spades and seems to promote. QS is readily available at Walmart and is priced less (sometimes significantly) than many other respected oils. I use Mazda filters pretty much exclusively. I buy a half dozen at a time and get them for around 10 to 11 bucks each on line. Last order I received the japanese made filter for that price when I was expecting the made in Thailand filter (still pretty good quality). In a pinch I have used MicroGard Select from O'Reillys (another well made filter).
Thanks for your input. For the Toyota hybrid...yes, looking for max fuel economy. We already lost a few MPGs when replacing tires. I guess 0w20 will have to be. Maybe I'll try one of those hybrid specific oils. The Mazda Skyactiv engine is not tough/harsh on oil. My concern is the oil degrading over 6 months if diluted with fuel and water from the short trips and the humid south Florida weather.
 
Been running Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 in my Toyota 2.5 - but its ICE not hybrid / atkinson cycle. Have heard hybrid is more prone to dilution for some reason.

Don't know about the other two but I assume any xxw-30 would be good. ESP is good, but for short OCI anything should be fine. I wouldn't consider 8miles when starting out at most normal Florida temps to be a short trip.
The oil temp. gauge does reach normal operating temp (just below 210) in those 8 miles but I dont know what amount of run-time at operating temp would be considered sufficient to burn any possible fuel in the oil.
 
The 0W-30 is better formulated IMO.
That is what I have gathered from reading several post around here and why I am inclined to use ESP. I see other members think highly of you and value your opinion. From what I've experienced with my interactions with you, I have to agree.
 
Hello fellow BITOG members. I've been reading posts on OCI based on time and not miles but would like your recommendations (besides, what else is to discuss that hasn't been discussed already).
* cars in South Florida = high heat/no winter and high humidity/moisture.
* cars do only short trips (from 2 to 8 mi).
*I've been doing 5k mi, 0w-20 bulk dealer oil changes for warranty but that always result in oil changes longer than 6 months.
*cars are 2018 & 2022 Mazda 2.5 D.I. non- turbo and 2021 Toyota 2.5 hybrid.

I cannot change the oil myself. Now that warranty is over I will purchase oil & filter and take it to a local shop. I plan to do 6 mo. instead of 5K mi OCI. What oil has strong fuel dilution resistance (due to short trips), strong shear/VI stability (due to south FL heat and humidity)?
I am thinking an oil in 0w30 would provide better protection against fuel dilution and would be better in a hot climate but which one is also good on a time based OCI instead of miles?
*for the Toyota Hybrid- looking for protection with fuel economy.
*for the Mazdas 2.5 D.I. non turbo= AFE 0w30 vs ESP 0w30?

Thanks in advanced.
I think 5K miles or 1 year is plenty often enough. More often is a waste of time and money, IMO.

Use a good synthetic oil. 0w30, 5w30, or 10w30 are all fine for your climate. Of those 3, I recommend 5w30.

NAPA Gold is a very good oil filter and is my preference. Choice of filter matters as much or more than choice of oil.

If you buy NAPA Gold filter, consider buying NAPA Full Synthetic because it's handy since you'll already be at NAPA to buy filter. NAPA sometimes has a monthly sale with NAPA oil and NAPA filter on sale as a package deal.

NAPA oil is made by Valvoline. NAPA Full Synthetic oil is Valvoline's best oil with a NAPA label on it. Specifically NAPA Full Synthetic oil is Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic oil in a NAPA bottle/jug. It's excellent oil.

Sometimes Walmart has Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic oil on Rollback sale with excellent price. There's no concerns with mixing Valvoline oil with NAPA oil because they're the same oil. My car has a mix of the two in it right now.

Walmarts also sells Chevron Havoline Lifelong Full Synthetic oil which is another excellent oil, and it's a better price because you get 6 quarts of oil for same price as 5 quarts of the other two oils I mentioned above.

Walmart also sells Quaker State Full Synthetic, which is a good oil for excellent price.

There are other good oil choices too, but those are my favorites for a good combination of quality, price, and availability.
 
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*for the Toyota Hybrid- looking for protection with fuel economy.
*for the Mazdas 2.5 D.I. non turbo= AFE 0w30 vs ESP 0w30?

Toyota Hybrid - Mobil 1 0W-20 Truck & SUV
Mazdas 2.5 - 0W-30 (Mobil 1 ESP, Castrol European Formula, Valvoline European)
 
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