Originally Posted by dnewton3
To add to Zee and WellOiled, I'll offer this ...
When the pump is in relief, the oil pressure at the downstream engine circuit is not zero. It's not like the oil pressure is 100% dumped at the relief valve when the shunt is open. Think of it merely as a pressure limiting device; it will bleed off excess pressure over it's set-point.
If the relief is set at 80psi, and the pump is giving 70psi, then 100% of the flow will be going to the engine circuit at that 70psi.
If the relief is set at 80psi, and the pump is providing 90psi, then that excess 10psi is going to bleed off at the relief valve, but still assure 80"ish" psi (or close to it) will be going to the engine circuit. In this condition, there will be a reduction of oil volume to the engine circuit, but it won't be anywhere near zero in terms of flow or pressure. AS the pumps typically can provide well more oil than the engine will need for any given rpm, that bleed-off of pressure and volume is a reasonably low risk to the engine.
The relief valve only bleeds off the excess above it's set-point. It will not starve the engine of oil. It's not an all-or-nothing device. Think of it an a hydraulic attenuator that moderates pressure/flow above it's critical level.
At least that's the way I understand it.
That's how I understand it as well. Part of the problem is talking about hot flow, then talking about sub zero maple syrup oil. I learned something about oil pump relief valves. I thought they were much higher psi. In freezing conditions, with a too small bypass valve area, the bypass say is one of those high 30 psi, what happens to the wall of maple syrup hitting the oil filter? It immediately has high back pressure. So if the dp is 30 psi at the filter, it needs more than a 60 psi oil pump valve, or the flow will be kept to the 30 psi. Maybe 30 is OK, but it seems low. The thick oil will take longer to get through the passages. When I had a small motorhome Chev chassis back n the day, I remember hot oil pressure say about 50 psi cruising along at 3000 rpm. Then when a hill is climbed the engine goes much higher probably to 5000 and I remember the oil pressure going considerably higher, maybe 70. Then coming back down after the engine returns to cruise. Many factors affect the oil gauge.
It's all for fun here, some people need to lighten up. If one uses the oil grade recommended in the manual and a name brand filter, preferably OE in my opinion, just to be sure the engineering matches, there should be "no worries." Your car will be long gone before the engine wears itself out. Driving style probably affects engine life more than anything else in equally maintained engines. IMO.