Oil help: B&S 6.75 Quantum?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 14, 2009
Messages
68
Location
Middle America
I just bought a new Toro Recycler with a Briggs 6.75 Quantum after my Toro/Tecumseh tanked. I've already changed the oil after 2 hours with another round of Briggs 30W, but now I can't decide what to use.

Are oils for air cooled engines any different than automotive oils? Ie: is Pennzoil SAE30 any different than B&S SAE30? Should I worry about using an SM rated oil?

On my list is:
M1 10W-30
B&S SAE30
B&S Syn 5W-30
Valv/Penn/QS SAE30

I'm also looking at Amsoil Formula-4 10W-30/30w, but I like being able to run to the parts store to pick up what I need vs. ordering it. I like the B&S oil (all PAO base), but its $10 per quart...

I put about 50 hours a year on my motors, usually changing ever 25. Spring temps are 60-80, summers approach 100. Any input would be appreciated. I don't really want to run a 40W for warranty reasons unless somebody can really convince me otherwise.
 
Last edited:
Any Heavy Duty 10W30/10W40 diesel oil should do just fine.

I wouldn't waste any precious GC in a lowly B&S engine if I were you and save those good oil for my car instead.

Q.
 
I would run Rotella 5w-40 before any of those.

But really, in a relatively simple engine like your briggs you really can't go wrong. Use a straight or 10w-30 of any brand and you'll be fine. If you've taken one apart, nothing inside is rocket science. There isn't an oil pump or timing chain you need to worry about. On the other hand, there isn't an oil filter either!
 
I run the Amsoil Formula-4 10W-30/30w oil. I used to run the Amsoil 5w-30 ASL which is just the standard automotive oil. Even that stuff was bullet proof.

I have had the mower for 14 years and it runs just like new. One summer I even mowed 3 lawns. My Sisters lawn was 1 ft + high at times. Been using the Amsoil oils in a Honda pressure washer engine and pump with great results too.

I would run a good synthetic from the store and change it at 50 Hrs. It does not have to be Amsoil, although Amsoil Formula-4 10W-30/30w might be the best out there.......

I would not run a 40wt unless someone was twisting my arm behind my back...
 
Last edited:
I always liked Rotella "T", either straight 30 or 10-30.
thumbsup2.gif
 
The QUANTUM does not need any oil, it uses space age magnetic bearings. Adding oil will only get the inside dirty, if someone has already mistakenly put some in remove it immediately, now mower will run very quietly, almost like it was siezed up and a paper weight now. I hope I was less help than the others.
 
EUROPA just means it's a pull start, no electric assist options. OHV means One Hand Version, on the handle. 5HP means it's a 1 hit dice creature, so don't push it to hard.
 
Originally Posted By: jldcol
The QUANTUM does not need any oil, it uses space age magnetic bearings. Adding oil will only get the inside dirty, if someone has already mistakenly put some in remove it immediately, now mower will run very quietly, almost like it was siezed up and a paper weight now. I hope I was less help than the others.


If your purpose was to be of no help whatsoever, then you were 100% successful. Congrats...
 
My mother has a Craftsman mower with a B&S 6.25 "Eager 1"

I've used nothing but SAE 30 in the past.

However, she's getting older and complained that when it's colder out she has trouble getting it turned over fast enough to start.

This year I'm running the GC, hoping it will be easier for her to start in cold weather.
 
+1 on the Shell Rotella straight 30w. Change it after another couple of hours to get the break-in metals out then go with every 25 hours. Mid season and end of season. IMO most important with the oil is a full crankcase, 2nd being OCI and brand/type last.

Somewhere in this ranking is a clean air filter installed carefully, a reasonably sharp blade and don't mow bricks, stumps or pipes. Mowing dog poo is OK, but stay away from it with the weed wacker.
 
The Briggs engines seem to be pretty bulletproof........I think honey would probably last for 10 years. But I run synthetic because I can never run anything that's too good.
 
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
The Briggs engines seem to be pretty bulletproof........I think honey would probably last for 10 years. But I run synthetic because I can never run anything that's too good.


not anymore [made in china] i opened one up and got a shock ..no more bearings on crankshaft or wrist pin ..don't put cheap oil to save money ,it will cost u a new motor ...
 
I have a Toro Recycler 6.75 Personal Pace RWD from the Home Depot.

Its an excellent mower with a great engine!

It's probably the same or very similar to yours.

Try valvoline maxlife 10-30 or 30HD. Only $3/quart and syn blend. Great oil!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom