I have searched, but not maybe very well. I'm looking for a good oil for my Toyota Prius. Factory says 0W-20 only. I currently use Syntec 0w30 in almost everything else with good results so far. I'm leaning towards the GC for the Prius as well. I live in a moderate climate, South Georgia, am not trying to save money on oil and am not trying for extended change intervals. But, this constant shutting down and re-starting thing with a Prius and Toyota's 0W-20 only stance has me confused as to what is a good oil for the Gen III Prius.
oil for Prius
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Personally, I would not stray from the recommend weight in that engine.
If it were mine, I was have some Mobil1 0w20 running through there.
If it were mine, I was have some Mobil1 0w20 running through there.
same here
I'd stick to the Toyo recommendations. (What oil would you put in your Apache??? Yupper! Whatever the manufacturer recommends!!! *(;-D )
Seriously, these Atkinson cycle engines in the Prii and hybrid Camrys don't work very hard. Actually, 'hardly at all' would be a better phrase. No need for anything more than a 0W-20 or 5W-20 at the worst....
Seriously, these Atkinson cycle engines in the Prii and hybrid Camrys don't work very hard. Actually, 'hardly at all' would be a better phrase. No need for anything more than a 0W-20 or 5W-20 at the worst....
GC is not a high economy / efficieny oil, GC is really a light weight 5w/40 A3 in all respects. Your prius wants a LOW HTHS A1/A5 oil. I would run a real syn and change it 1x/year. Like redline or m1 ep or maybe best yet ( for this app) Castrol Edge 5-30.
Originally Posted By: a64pilot
I have searched, but not maybe very well. I'm looking for a good oil for my Toyota Prius. Factory says 0W-20 only. I currently use Syntec 0w30 in almost everything else with good results so far. I'm leaning towards the GC for the Prius as well. I live in a moderate climate, South Georgia, am not trying to save money on oil and am not trying for extended change intervals. But, this constant shutting down and re-starting thing with a Prius and Toyota's 0W-20 only stance has me confused as to what is a good oil for the Gen III Prius.
No need at all to stray from the Toyota recommendation. The previous generation Prius, with the 1NZ engine stuck with the 5w30 rec, but that was most probably a result of fuel dilution issues with that engine (though if you search our UOA forum, you'll see a couple members who used 0w-20 in that engine with great results).
As our fellow hybrid driver, Silver Eagle, pointed out, these engines are incredibly EASY upon their oil, for the most part. As for the frequent starting, that would actually weigh in favor of a thinner oil. You want, afterall, the oil to flow as quickly as possible with all these starts. Additionally, assuming you're new to the hybrid community, you'll need to do much homework!
These cars are programmed to avoid "dry starts". When the computer decides to start the ICE (internal combustion engine), it will "tell" MG-1 (motor-gen #1, the smaller of the two motor generators, geared to the center shaft of the planetary gear set) to spin the ICE up to about 1k rpms before introducing fuel and spark. This ensures that there's oil where it needs to be before the ICE takes on any real loads. In addition, when you get good at driving the car, you'll feel a faint "rumble" when you're in "stealth" mode (electric only) right before the ICE lights off. That's MG1 spinning the ICE up before lightoff. If you're really trying to play the mpg game, that rumble will give you just enough "warning" to back off the gas pedal a tad, so as to abort the ICE start and save a bit more gas. Seriously, if you really want to extract full value from this car, don't worry about the oil, and instead, learn to drive it to max advantage!
If you need any more comfort, I've been driving my 09 TCH for a year now (sold the Prius to my son), and except for one run of GC, I've been feeding it 0w-20. It ran OK on GC, but that was way too thick. Mileage suffered, and I saw no reason to stay with the thick stuff. Runs great on 0w-20, and I'm sure your new Prius will too.
I have searched, but not maybe very well. I'm looking for a good oil for my Toyota Prius. Factory says 0W-20 only. I currently use Syntec 0w30 in almost everything else with good results so far. I'm leaning towards the GC for the Prius as well. I live in a moderate climate, South Georgia, am not trying to save money on oil and am not trying for extended change intervals. But, this constant shutting down and re-starting thing with a Prius and Toyota's 0W-20 only stance has me confused as to what is a good oil for the Gen III Prius.
No need at all to stray from the Toyota recommendation. The previous generation Prius, with the 1NZ engine stuck with the 5w30 rec, but that was most probably a result of fuel dilution issues with that engine (though if you search our UOA forum, you'll see a couple members who used 0w-20 in that engine with great results).
As our fellow hybrid driver, Silver Eagle, pointed out, these engines are incredibly EASY upon their oil, for the most part. As for the frequent starting, that would actually weigh in favor of a thinner oil. You want, afterall, the oil to flow as quickly as possible with all these starts. Additionally, assuming you're new to the hybrid community, you'll need to do much homework!
If you need any more comfort, I've been driving my 09 TCH for a year now (sold the Prius to my son), and except for one run of GC, I've been feeding it 0w-20. It ran OK on GC, but that was way too thick. Mileage suffered, and I saw no reason to stay with the thick stuff. Runs great on 0w-20, and I'm sure your new Prius will too.
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I see the mileage suffering in my saab with GC vs other oils. I'd go for an optimized oil for best mileage. While likely 0w-20 is specced for CAFE so toyota can sell more tundra trucks, it is still a robust oil.
Does toyota have its own special spec for a 20wt oil, like ford and honda do?
Also, try to have a look at what toyota specs for the prius in Japan, Singapore, south africa, europe, etc. That may tell you something about the suitability of different grades.
Personally, though I may have some reservations about running "dino" 20wt oils in an engine specced for a 20wt oil, I'd have no reservations running a synthetic 20wt in there.
Does toyota have its own special spec for a 20wt oil, like ford and honda do?
Also, try to have a look at what toyota specs for the prius in Japan, Singapore, south africa, europe, etc. That may tell you something about the suitability of different grades.
Personally, though I may have some reservations about running "dino" 20wt oils in an engine specced for a 20wt oil, I'd have no reservations running a synthetic 20wt in there.
What are the differences between dino and syn 5W20 if OCI is 5-6k miles ? Now, if you try to compare dino 5W20 and syn 0W20, then I can see the difference between the two, of a same brand, for the first 4-5 miles cold start.
Thanks, as far as the apache thing, we used 23699 turbine oil of course and I don't think anything from that applies here. It wasn't MY helicopter after all. However we did have problems with the heat in the sand box and ran an oil we called triple nickel, sorry I don't remember anything more about it than that.
ekpolk, I know a little about the car, I'm linking this thread to one over at Prius Chat, a forum for the Prius, but I think folks over here have forgotten more about oil than most will ever know. I've lurked over here for years and there has been quite a "row" over at Prius Chat over which oil to use. Most are confused as I am over Toyota's insistence for a 5,000 mile change interval. Quite a few are worried that 0W-20 is good for CAFE standards, but bad for the engine long term, as I was.
ekpolk, I know a little about the car, I'm linking this thread to one over at Prius Chat, a forum for the Prius, but I think folks over here have forgotten more about oil than most will ever know. I've lurked over here for years and there has been quite a "row" over at Prius Chat over which oil to use. Most are confused as I am over Toyota's insistence for a 5,000 mile change interval. Quite a few are worried that 0W-20 is good for CAFE standards, but bad for the engine long term, as I was.
Originally Posted By: a64pilot
Thanks, as far as the apache thing, we used 23699 turbine oil of course and I don't think anything from that applies here. It wasn't MY helicopter after all. However we did have problems with the heat in the sand box and ran an oil we called triple nickel, sorry I don't remember anything more about it than that.
ekpolk, I know a little about the car, I'm linking this thread to one over at Prius Chat, a forum for the Prius, but I think folks over here have forgotten more about oil than most will ever know. I've lurked over here for years and there has been quite a "row" over at Prius Chat over which oil to use. Most are confused as I am over Toyota's insistence for a 5,000 mile change interval. Quite a few are worried that 0W-20 is good for CAFE standards, but bad for the engine long term, as I was.
Well, Glad you are back... thanks for serving!
I'd not fret over the 5K OCIs. The SM oils can make that in spades and have plenty of reserve. And I forgot to mention that a 'blend' oil is perfectly fine... recommended by Toyo, in fact. Just had the HyCam's oil changed Friday and they use Toyo oil made by Mobil. 5W-20 is a blend and 0W-20 is synthetic (extra, extra charge for that, of course). They said the Toyo oil has a 'special additive package' made special for Toyo cars. (Sounds like the Colonel's Chicken... '27 herbs and spices and a secret ingredient.)
IME, the oil temp in the HyCam has never gotten above 165something even after a highway run on a 100F day. These engines don't work hard. I think that a 'blend' is fine; a synthetic would be overkill; and, you need to stay in the 5W-20 or 0W-20 weights as the oil is never hot enough(212F) to get to its rated grade so they're always running at some intermediate viscosity. Here, "Thinner is more better!"
Cheers!
Thanks, as far as the apache thing, we used 23699 turbine oil of course and I don't think anything from that applies here. It wasn't MY helicopter after all. However we did have problems with the heat in the sand box and ran an oil we called triple nickel, sorry I don't remember anything more about it than that.
ekpolk, I know a little about the car, I'm linking this thread to one over at Prius Chat, a forum for the Prius, but I think folks over here have forgotten more about oil than most will ever know. I've lurked over here for years and there has been quite a "row" over at Prius Chat over which oil to use. Most are confused as I am over Toyota's insistence for a 5,000 mile change interval. Quite a few are worried that 0W-20 is good for CAFE standards, but bad for the engine long term, as I was.
Well, Glad you are back... thanks for serving!
I'd not fret over the 5K OCIs. The SM oils can make that in spades and have plenty of reserve. And I forgot to mention that a 'blend' oil is perfectly fine... recommended by Toyo, in fact. Just had the HyCam's oil changed Friday and they use Toyo oil made by Mobil. 5W-20 is a blend and 0W-20 is synthetic (extra, extra charge for that, of course). They said the Toyo oil has a 'special additive package' made special for Toyo cars. (Sounds like the Colonel's Chicken... '27 herbs and spices and a secret ingredient.)
IME, the oil temp in the HyCam has never gotten above 165something even after a highway run on a 100F day. These engines don't work hard. I think that a 'blend' is fine; a synthetic would be overkill; and, you need to stay in the 5W-20 or 0W-20 weights as the oil is never hot enough(212F) to get to its rated grade so they're always running at some intermediate viscosity. Here, "Thinner is more better!"
Cheers!
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Amsoil ASM 0W20 or Mobil 0W20. The batteries will probably go before your lil' generator driver does 
.
.OK, how about an OCI for the little engine using a good syn assuming no extraordinary driving conditions, you know light driving while trying to obtain the best mileage. Part of the hybrid thing is to be eco friendly and some of us think an OCI of 5,000 miles is excessive
Probably 12-15k miles easy on ASM or M1.
Originally Posted By: a64pilot
OK, how about an OCI for the little engine using a good syn assuming no extraordinary driving conditions, you know light driving while trying to obtain the best mileage. Part of the hybrid thing is to be eco friendly and some of us think an OCI of 5,000 miles is excessive
Probably do-able. But do consider that the oil temps in these engines do not generate high oil temperatures and they may not quickly boil off any combustion moisture that collects in the crankcase. I'm sure the wizards at Toyo have thought this out but I'd be cautious as I pushed the envelope on OCIs.
I see you are in Georgia... might not be as big an issue there since you don't have prolonged cold winters....
Cheers!
OK, how about an OCI for the little engine using a good syn assuming no extraordinary driving conditions, you know light driving while trying to obtain the best mileage. Part of the hybrid thing is to be eco friendly and some of us think an OCI of 5,000 miles is excessive
Probably do-able. But do consider that the oil temps in these engines do not generate high oil temperatures and they may not quickly boil off any combustion moisture that collects in the crankcase. I'm sure the wizards at Toyo have thought this out but I'd be cautious as I pushed the envelope on OCIs.
I see you are in Georgia... might not be as big an issue there since you don't have prolonged cold winters....
Cheers!
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I drive a 2009 Civic Hybrid, so I understand your concern. I would stick with the 0W20 weight -- not 0W30 or 5W20. If you use heavier oil, mileage will suffer but wear won't improve. Yes, hybrid engines are easy on oil, and lightweight oil helps with frequent engine restarts.
The coolant temperature on my Civic Hybrid never exceeds 201°F, even driving it hard on a 100°F day. I'm sure the Prius is similar. They both have well-designed cooling systems, so the thin 0W20 oils don't shear or cook under any driving condition. Yes, it's good engineering.
The coolant temperature on my Civic Hybrid never exceeds 201°F, even driving it hard on a 100°F day. I'm sure the Prius is similar. They both have well-designed cooling systems, so the thin 0W20 oils don't shear or cook under any driving condition. Yes, it's good engineering.
Originally Posted By: Silber Igel
I'd stick to the Toyo recommendations. (What oil would you put in your Apache??? Yupper! Whatever the manufacturer recommends!!! *(;-D )
Seriously, these Atkinson cycle engines in the Prii and hybrid Camrys don't work very hard. Actually, 'hardly at all' would be a better phrase. No need for anything more than a 0W-20 or 5W-20 at the worst....
With 12.5 compression ratio they work quite hard, with the computer always trying to lug the engine as best it can under constantly changing loading. I change oil at the 5k mile mark, and it comes out looking pretty well used. No analysis done to date.
I'd stick to the Toyo recommendations. (What oil would you put in your Apache??? Yupper! Whatever the manufacturer recommends!!! *(;-D )
Seriously, these Atkinson cycle engines in the Prii and hybrid Camrys don't work very hard. Actually, 'hardly at all' would be a better phrase. No need for anything more than a 0W-20 or 5W-20 at the worst....
With 12.5 compression ratio they work quite hard, with the computer always trying to lug the engine as best it can under constantly changing loading. I change oil at the 5k mile mark, and it comes out looking pretty well used. No analysis done to date.
I believe that the 12 to 1 compression isn't actually correct. I believe the principle of the Atkinson cycle engine is achieved by delaying closure of the intake valve until well past BDC so that the actual compression ratio is around 8 to 1, but by delaying the closing of the intake valve x number of degrees you effectively end up with a power stroke that is longer by several degrees than the compression stroke.
I think you end up with an engine that is more efficient, but basically gutless in the development of torque. I believe the electric motor is used to make up for the torque that the Atkinson cycle engine doesn't have, so an Atkinson cycle will work in a Hybrid, but wouldn't be so good in a conventional design.
I assume the engine is being "lugged" at a low RPM, but high manifold pressure for efficiency as well. The CVT makes this easier to accomplish. I won't know until next month when I can afford to upgrade my Auto-tap so it will work on the little Toyota.
This thing has been a learning process for me, causing me to re-think a lot of preconcieved notions
On edit, yes the compression ratio is actually 12.5 to 1, but valve timing effectively lowers it to around 8 to one, I think.
I think you end up with an engine that is more efficient, but basically gutless in the development of torque. I believe the electric motor is used to make up for the torque that the Atkinson cycle engine doesn't have, so an Atkinson cycle will work in a Hybrid, but wouldn't be so good in a conventional design.
I assume the engine is being "lugged" at a low RPM, but high manifold pressure for efficiency as well. The CVT makes this easier to accomplish. I won't know until next month when I can afford to upgrade my Auto-tap so it will work on the little Toyota.
This thing has been a learning process for me, causing me to re-think a lot of preconcieved notions
On edit, yes the compression ratio is actually 12.5 to 1, but valve timing effectively lowers it to around 8 to one, I think.
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Originally Posted By: Ed_T
With 12.5 compression ratio they work quite hard, with the computer always trying to lug the engine as best it can under constantly changing loading. I change oil at the 5k mile mark, and it comes out looking pretty well used. No analysis done to date.
Ahhhhooooghhhhaaa!!! Ding! Ding! Ding!!! (Speaking gently here... )Actually, Ed... that's not correct. The Atkinson engine in the HyCam, at least, has an EXPANSION RATIO of 12.5:1. I got confused on this myself.... I think you have to look at these engines as close relatives of steam engines. The compression ratio hovers (apologies Pilot!)around 10:1, about 80% of the expansion stroke for the reasons AH64Pilot stated. But it could be a lot lower under some conditions where the engine is lightly loaded, e.g., battery charging when sitting; or, greater, when you've got your foot in it for full power acceleration.
IMO, "hovers" is the right term as I think the CR varies within a predetermined range depending on engine loading and driver demands, always seeking the optimum operating regime for lowest emissions, highest mpg, and best performance under all conditions.
I'd agree that they are low rpm engines but I'm certain they do not 'lug.' "Lugging" is usually associated with wide throttle settings and too tall a gear selection for the vehicle speed. I'm not sure it's possible in a hybrid as 'synergy drive' system is similar to a continuously variable gear box. The SDS' computer
will not let the internal combustion engine (ICE) get into an operating envelope where it will lug. IME, the dang ICE has a mind of its own and the driver really doesn't have direct control over its operation so you couldn't 'lug' it even if you wanted. For example...
Pressing on the gas when in Park or Neutral will NOT raise the ICE's rpm.
Pressing on the gas in Drive with the brake on will not raise the rpm.
The ICE will rev higher to charge battery anytime it needs (wants?)to. You can't control it.
At speeds over 40, the ICE operates at a low level to stay hot and 'armed' for higher speeds should you need it. You can be at 65 mph and have the ICE at idle ... or it may, depending on conditions rev higher. It just goes up and down depending on demands. Resistance is few-tile!!
In agreement with AH64Pilot in that you're essentially driving an electric car that is augmented by a high efficiency, modest output, Atkinson cycle ICE. As such, they really don't work that hard.
I, for one, I'd be interested in an oil analysis if you do one, Ed. Oil does get black and nasty in a short time but that's a good thing. Its supposed to do that...
Cheers!
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With 12.5 compression ratio they work quite hard, with the computer always trying to lug the engine as best it can under constantly changing loading. I change oil at the 5k mile mark, and it comes out looking pretty well used. No analysis done to date.
Ahhhhooooghhhhaaa!!! Ding! Ding! Ding!!! (Speaking gently here... )Actually, Ed... that's not correct. The Atkinson engine in the HyCam, at least, has an EXPANSION RATIO of 12.5:1. I got confused on this myself.... I think you have to look at these engines as close relatives of steam engines. The compression ratio hovers (apologies Pilot!)around 10:1, about 80% of the expansion stroke for the reasons AH64Pilot stated. But it could be a lot lower under some conditions where the engine is lightly loaded, e.g., battery charging when sitting; or, greater, when you've got your foot in it for full power acceleration.
IMO, "hovers" is the right term as I think the CR varies within a predetermined range depending on engine loading and driver demands, always seeking the optimum operating regime for lowest emissions, highest mpg, and best performance under all conditions.
I'd agree that they are low rpm engines but I'm certain they do not 'lug.' "Lugging" is usually associated with wide throttle settings and too tall a gear selection for the vehicle speed. I'm not sure it's possible in a hybrid as 'synergy drive' system is similar to a continuously variable gear box. The SDS' computer
Pressing on the gas when in Park or Neutral will NOT raise the ICE's rpm.
Pressing on the gas in Drive with the brake on will not raise the rpm.
The ICE will rev higher to charge battery anytime it needs (wants?)to. You can't control it.
At speeds over 40, the ICE operates at a low level to stay hot and 'armed' for higher speeds should you need it. You can be at 65 mph and have the ICE at idle ... or it may, depending on conditions rev higher. It just goes up and down depending on demands. Resistance is few-tile!!
In agreement with AH64Pilot in that you're essentially driving an electric car that is augmented by a high efficiency, modest output, Atkinson cycle ICE. As such, they really don't work that hard.
I, for one, I'd be interested in an oil analysis if you do one, Ed. Oil does get black and nasty in a short time but that's a good thing. Its supposed to do that...
Cheers!
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Originally Posted By: Ed_T
Originally Posted By: Silber Igel
I'd stick to the Toyo recommendations. (What oil would you put in your Apache??? Yupper! Whatever the manufacturer recommends!!! *(;-D )
Seriously, these Atkinson cycle engines in the Prii and hybrid Camrys don't work very hard. Actually, 'hardly at all' would be a better phrase. No need for anything more than a 0W-20 or 5W-20 at the worst....
With 12.5 compression ratio they work quite hard, with the computer always trying to lug the engine as best it can under constantly changing loading. I change oil at the 5k mile mark, and it comes out looking pretty well used. No analysis done to date.
I saw this post early this morning, but didn't have time to add my two bits then. I'll endorse the responses from SI and A64. To them, I will add two comments.
First, let's address the "lugging" thing. These engines don't EVER lug. What you may be perceiving as "lugging" is most probably the engine in deep Atkinson-cycle (AC) operation. With these cars, the AC characteristic is created through "radical" (compared to non AC cars) programming of the VVT-i mechanism. I had a CAN-View unit installed on the Prius (fried itself, now dead...), and I have a Scan-Gauge-II on the Camry Hybrid. You should try an SG-II. You will see that the rpms involved, and the engine timing, are not consistent with "lugging". These engines are quite happy, and quite undamaged, while running in full AC mode.
Second, I respectfully recommend you go over to our own UOA forum, and search for both "Prius" and "hybrid". If you do, you will see that these cars are not at all "hard" on their oils, especially at the Toyota recommended 5k OCI. Some examples of the NZ series engines (all Prii up to the brand new one that just appeared) are reputed to have fuel dilution issues in some examples. Mine has shown light dilution in some UOA (1.5% fuel). Some have shown none. Though it is unconfirmed, I believe that this is the reason the NZ powered Prii were kept to 5w30 oil, and not the 20 wts. As for my Camry, I'm now over 4k miles on a fill of PP 0w-20, and it's still almost as blonde as when it went into the engine on 7/1/09. I'm having a tough time imagining how my 2AZ-FXE is killing its oil, when it still looks almost new after 4k miles of use.
Ed, please understand, we're not bashing on you here. I suspect that, in full good faith, you are drawing unduly harsh conclusions about how these HSD engines "treat" their oil. Look at the facts -- and then relax! Oil is not a problem in these cars.
Originally Posted By: Silber Igel
I'd stick to the Toyo recommendations. (What oil would you put in your Apache??? Yupper! Whatever the manufacturer recommends!!! *(;-D )
Seriously, these Atkinson cycle engines in the Prii and hybrid Camrys don't work very hard. Actually, 'hardly at all' would be a better phrase. No need for anything more than a 0W-20 or 5W-20 at the worst....
With 12.5 compression ratio they work quite hard, with the computer always trying to lug the engine as best it can under constantly changing loading. I change oil at the 5k mile mark, and it comes out looking pretty well used. No analysis done to date.
I saw this post early this morning, but didn't have time to add my two bits then. I'll endorse the responses from SI and A64. To them, I will add two comments.
First, let's address the "lugging" thing. These engines don't EVER lug. What you may be perceiving as "lugging" is most probably the engine in deep Atkinson-cycle (AC) operation. With these cars, the AC characteristic is created through "radical" (compared to non AC cars) programming of the VVT-i mechanism. I had a CAN-View unit installed on the Prius (fried itself, now dead...), and I have a Scan-Gauge-II on the Camry Hybrid. You should try an SG-II. You will see that the rpms involved, and the engine timing, are not consistent with "lugging". These engines are quite happy, and quite undamaged, while running in full AC mode.
Second, I respectfully recommend you go over to our own UOA forum, and search for both "Prius" and "hybrid". If you do, you will see that these cars are not at all "hard" on their oils, especially at the Toyota recommended 5k OCI. Some examples of the NZ series engines (all Prii up to the brand new one that just appeared) are reputed to have fuel dilution issues in some examples. Mine has shown light dilution in some UOA (1.5% fuel). Some have shown none. Though it is unconfirmed, I believe that this is the reason the NZ powered Prii were kept to 5w30 oil, and not the 20 wts. As for my Camry, I'm now over 4k miles on a fill of PP 0w-20, and it's still almost as blonde as when it went into the engine on 7/1/09. I'm having a tough time imagining how my 2AZ-FXE is killing its oil, when it still looks almost new after 4k miles of use.
Ed, please understand, we're not bashing on you here. I suspect that, in full good faith, you are drawing unduly harsh conclusions about how these HSD engines "treat" their oil. Look at the facts -- and then relax! Oil is not a problem in these cars.
What parameters will your scan gauge II monitor? are you familiar with Auto-tap? http://www.autotap.com/AutoTapDIY/product_diy.asp?s=PGAP1207b I ask because I believe that it will cost about the same to either update my auto tap or buy a scan gauge.
OH and by lugging, I meant merely low RPM operation, but not so low as to cause damage. I assume Toyota is smart enough to not allow that, but I believe due to friction, pumping losses etc. that an engine operating at full throttle, but at a lower RPM is more efficient than one operating at partial throttle and higher RPM.
This Hybrid thing is counter intuitive, but the more I study it, the more sense it makes.
OH and by lugging, I meant merely low RPM operation, but not so low as to cause damage. I assume Toyota is smart enough to not allow that, but I believe due to friction, pumping losses etc. that an engine operating at full throttle, but at a lower RPM is more efficient than one operating at partial throttle and higher RPM.
This Hybrid thing is counter intuitive, but the more I study it, the more sense it makes.
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