I have a 1973 MGB. I rebuilt the engine about 2000 miles ago. It has flat tappets and dual valve springs. I've read recently about the reduced zinc levels in most oils, and that causes me some concern. Like most MG owners, I've always used Castrol GTX 20W50. I would like to switch to something with a higher zinc content to protect the cam and lifters, which generally suffer in these cars. VR1 looks like it would fit the bill, but is it safe to run all the time on the street, or is it solely for racing? Any other suggestions. I've considered Rotella, but it doesn't come in 20W50, which is the recommended weight. I'd prefer to not use synthetic, as these cars tend to leak and use oil.
Oil for MGB - VR1 or other??
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Can't speak to MGs specifically, but I run a 1974 BMW 2002, which specs 20w50 as well. While some people do run synthetics, most stick to dino oils. Recently I've run a mix of 4 qts of Delo 400 15w40 and 1 qt of Valvoline 20w50. Oil pressure is at least as high as it was with the straight 20w50 I had been running, and it appears to be a bit higher at hot idle. Usage, while never a major factor in these motors, is no greater than with the 20w50. The additive package in HDEOs seems to me to be beneficial, particularly for a high-revving older engine (my 02 has a 4-spd and a 6600rpm redline, seeing 4000rpm at highway cruise). I'm happy with the trade-off so far. YMMV.
I have a 71 MGB, and have been using synthetic for years. I rebuilt the car in 83, and if everything is kept tight on it you don't have oil leaks. I use M1 and have never had any problems. I also only tend to put about 2000 miles a year on the B, so only change oil and filter once a year.
I helped rebuild the engine in my buddy's '76 "B" and he's run it on nothing but Rotella 15W40 since. We're working on his XKE engine this weekend and he plans on using the same in it because of the good results in the MG. Love your screen name, are you going to the Brit car show in N'ville this weekend? We plan on hitting it when we break for lunch on Sat.
Wish I could go this weekend, but can't. Despite the recent rebuild, I do have a couple of minor leaks. One I'm sure is the rear cork seal on the main bearing shell. It does look like M1 EP has the higher zinc content as well, but costs nearly twice as much. I can't bring myself to go more than a year on a oil change, and I don't put a lot of miles on this car, so I don't see a big advantage to the syn. I do run synthetic, M1 or Valvoline in my VW Passat V6.
Perhaps look into some SX-UP?
SX-Up?
Nice car.
I have a 1974 Triumph TR6 w/ 43K original miles, it is all original except for a spin-on filter conversion. I am the second owner and I've used Mobil 1 15W-50 for the past 7+ years that I've owned it. The prior owner used Castrol GTX 10W40 or 20W-50 almost exclusively. I do annual oil changes prior to putting it away for the winter.
I only use the car in the no salt seasons and only about 1-2K miles/year. I try to drive it long enough to get it warmed up, but a lot of its use is for short drives for weekend morning coffee, ice cream, etc,...not the easiest use on the oil..or best for the car. I did a valve adjustment a few weeks ago and was surprised to find absolutely no slime or deposits under the valve cover...it was as clean as when I did the pre-purchase inspection 7 years ago. Don't know if this says anything about the oil, but I was happy.
I was also concerned about the lower additive levels and was considering switching to Mobil 1 VTwin 20W-50. I contacted Mobil earlier this year and they said that while the VTwin does have higher zinc and phosphorus levels, the 15W-50EP is adequate for older cars. I will stick with the 15W-50 mainly because it pumps up quickly (relatively) and still gives great hot oil pressure. For annual oil changes, I don't see the cost of synthetics as a big deal given the benefits.
Enjoy your car...this is the best time of year.
I have a 1974 Triumph TR6 w/ 43K original miles, it is all original except for a spin-on filter conversion. I am the second owner and I've used Mobil 1 15W-50 for the past 7+ years that I've owned it. The prior owner used Castrol GTX 10W40 or 20W-50 almost exclusively. I do annual oil changes prior to putting it away for the winter.
I only use the car in the no salt seasons and only about 1-2K miles/year. I try to drive it long enough to get it warmed up, but a lot of its use is for short drives for weekend morning coffee, ice cream, etc,...not the easiest use on the oil..or best for the car. I did a valve adjustment a few weeks ago and was surprised to find absolutely no slime or deposits under the valve cover...it was as clean as when I did the pre-purchase inspection 7 years ago. Don't know if this says anything about the oil, but I was happy.
I was also concerned about the lower additive levels and was considering switching to Mobil 1 VTwin 20W-50. I contacted Mobil earlier this year and they said that while the VTwin does have higher zinc and phosphorus levels, the 15W-50EP is adequate for older cars. I will stick with the 15W-50 mainly because it pumps up quickly (relatively) and still gives great hot oil pressure. For annual oil changes, I don't see the cost of synthetics as a big deal given the benefits.
Enjoy your car...this is the best time of year.
Pre-rebuild the car was always run on Castrol or Kendall. It was very clean when I tore it apart.
SX-UP is a additive from Specialty Formulations specifically designed to raise the additive levels of API SM oils to make them compatible with older high performance engines.
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