Oil for a road trip - 2006 Honda Civic?

[AdmdeVilleneuve]

Have been kicking tires of late, but looks like a case of paralysis by analysis; nothing shiny in the driveway. Have a wedding on the east coast to attend in June, but I want to drive and visit a few places enroute instead of fly. Total interstate miles would be around 6K. But, the "newer" and more economical car for the trip is our 2006 Civic. (Yep, I have earplugs for stretches of rough pavement.)

Current fill is Honda semi-syn 5W20 from the dealer, and it has done well. Cruising around ID, MT and WY last fall obtained 40 mpg at 75 mph. OLM is only at 25% and we are close to a year. Have PP 5W20 (not the new stuff) ready to go next month, so the question is: Could there be enough advantage in highway MPG gain to justify using something different for the next OCI, like the Mazda w/moly? Or, would any gain be too miniscule to measure? (For the arithmetic, figure 150 gals. @ $3.50/gal. for the trip, and the cost of the PP on hand @ $5.00/qt.)

Would also appreciate an oil filter recommendation (or tip on what to avoid).
Thanks!

 

[gregk24]

It might be of some help, but nothing significant. Going forward I would replace the 5w20 with 0w20 year round. TGMO 0w20, PP 0w20, and M1 0w20 produce low wear numbers in Honda engines.

 

[gfh77665]

Its a thoughtful question, but for all practical intents, no.

Airing up your tires to the max allowed, easy acceleration, using cruise control, lowering curise speed 1 or 2 mph, and lighting the vehicle of all unecessary weight carried will be FAR more effective than trying to game MPG's via brand of oil.

Hope this helped, enjoy your trip & drive safe!

 

[HTSS_TR]

There isn't much differences MPG wise between PP 5W20 and Mazda 0W20 with high Moly on highway speed.

You can get better MPG with slight higher tire pressure, about 2-6 PSI above door placard with no negative effect in ride and performance/handling.

Oil filter: any mid-price oil filter is okay for 8-10k miles oil/filter change interval.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: gregk24
It might be of some help, but nothing significant. Going forward I would replace the 5w20 with 0w20 year round. TGMO 0w20, PP 0w20, and M1 0w20 produce low wear numbers in Honda engines.



Wear numbers? In what,a 30 dollar used oil analysis. Ha
They cannot tell you anything about wear. They are to monitor the condition of the oil and establish trends. That's it.

I suggest you go and read the esteemed member Doug Hillary's posts. He's an expert in the field of engines and wear. In his posts you will learn that a common used oil analysis cannot tell you anything about wear so please inform yourself before spouting incorrect info.
As far as the op's question the answer is no. Switching brands within the same grade will do nothing since the hths values are so close engine drag will be the same with either.
Try a can of mos2.

 

[mene]

If you are not against additives, Lubro-moly MOS2 should make a difference, I was reluctant to try it at first because I also believe that the oils have or "should" have everything the engine needs, but reading so much about it here in BITOG bought a can and dumped it in our worse car at the time and the difference was dramatic, then poured in the other cars one at a time and has done good things, one of them was higher MPG's, the lowest one increased about 1 1/4 MPG's and the highest about 2.5 MPG's. My 2c.

 

[Azeem]

Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Its a thoughtful question, but for all practical intents, no.

Airing up your tires to the max allowed, easy acceleration, using cruise control, lowering curise speed 1 or 2 mph, and lighting the vehicle of all unecessary weight carried will be FAR more effective than trying to game MPG's via brand of oil.

Hope this helped, enjoy your trip & drive safe!


+1.I'd change oil a week at least before the trip to make sure all is good and no leaks.It'd stink if you took off only to find out you have a loose drain plug or seeping oil filter gasket down the road.

Have fun.

 

[tswm]

Originally Posted By: Clevy

Try a can of mos2.


LM MoS2, speaking empirically, is a very capable engine oil additive unless it is poured into a crankcase filled with Ti oil. I experienced immediately perceptible drivability problem in the way the engine ran with the transmission, after having added only about 3 oz MoS2 to an engine already well running with Kendall (with Liquid Titanium GT-1). Was compelled to drain the crankcase later that very same day.

Whereas the car ran well with about 6 oz. MoS2 added into 4.5+ qt of Valvoline Dura Blend.

Later, here in BITOG I learned of the phenomenon of oil additives clashing in certain situations.

Ti additive conflicting with MoS2 additive as I lived that experience, was one of those.

I am certain in this view.

Doubtless I would have experienced some similar drivability problem, if it had been 3 oz LM MoS2 added to a crankcase of either Mobil Super 5000 conventional or Castrol synthetic with Ti.

 

[tswm]

Originally Posted By: mene
If you are not against additives, Lubro-moly MOS2 should make a difference,


The OP would do well by using either 5W20 or 5W30 of PP (or some PP blend of these two grades), be it with or without LM MoS2.

IMO LM MoS2 would be especially useful for starting a cold engine in "polar vortex" environment and also for high load, high rev driving.

Provided that said MoS2 be not added to any engine oil known to carry the Titanium additive, speaking from my own grievous experience.

 

[mene]

Originally Posted By: tswm
Originally Posted By: mene
If you are not against additives, Lubro-moly MOS2 should make a difference,


The OP would do well by using either 5W20 or 5W30 of PP (or some PP blend of these two grades), be it with or without LM MoS2.

IMO LM MoS2 would be especially useful for starting a cold engine in "polar vortex" environment and also for high load, high rev driving.

Provided that said MoS2 be not added to any engine oil known to carry the Titanium additive, speaking from my own grievous experience.

Thank you much for the tip!, I haven't tried in an oil with Ti but I wanted to, now I know that either of one but not both. The engine changes for good with the MOS2 even here where polar vortex is 28F

 

[tswm]

Originally Posted By: mene

Thank you much for the tip!, I haven't tried in an oil with Ti but I wanted to, now I know that either of one but not both. The engine changes for good with the MOS2 even here where polar vortex is 28F


Glad to be of assistance to you. The more automotive wisdom, the merrier IMO.

It was my intention to present a fair and balanced view of a certain mysterious, molecular antagonism between the Ti additive and the MoS2. Seems Ti and any other form of the moly additive stand at peace, the one with the other. Regardless, personally I like equally both Ti additive laced oil and LM MoS2, er, utilize either but not both in the same crankcase.

According to a bit older PQIA data, Toyota conventional 5W30 is very similar to MS5K, additive wise, so that one is another gasoline engine oil known to be laced with the Ti additive.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: tswm
Originally Posted By: Clevy

Try a can of mos2.


LM MoS2, speaking empirically, is a very capable engine oil additive unless it is poured into a crankcase filled with Ti oil. I experienced immediately perceptible drivability problem in the way the engine ran with the transmission, after having added only about 3 oz MoS2 to an engine already well running with Kendall (with Liquid Titanium GT-1). Was compelled to drain the crankcase later that very same day.

Whereas the car ran well with about 6 oz. MoS2 added into 4.5+ qt of Valvoline Dura Blend.

Later, here in BITOG I learned of the phenomenon of oil additives clashing in certain situations.

Ti additive conflicting with MoS2 additive as I lived that experience, was one of those.

I am certain in this view.

Doubtless I would have experienced some similar drivability problem, if it had been 3 oz LM MoS2 added to a crankcase of either Mobil Super 5000 conventional or Castrol synthetic with Ti.



Huh.
My buddy is using castrol with titanium and I added a can of mos2 about 10000kms ago and I/he certainly never noticed any problems.
Additive clash is a myth of sorts. I've yet to see,read or hear of it truly happening.

 

[JavierG]

Funny because the two oils that made my Legend purr like a kitten were Kendall GT1 and Mobil Super 5000. I knew Kendall had ti but didn't learn about the ti in MS5K until I had run several OCI with it. Wish I hadn't given away those 40 quarts of MS5K couple years ago.

 

[tswm]

Originally Posted By: Clevy

My buddy is using castrol with titanium and I added a can of mos2 about 10000kms ago and I/he certainly never noticed any problems.


ARCOgraphite a BITOG member posted here that he experienced some vexing drivability problem, to wit, Castrol Synth with Ti vs. LM MoS2. I read that post, having already experienced a motoring vexation more or less identical, to wit, Kendall GT-1 with Liq Ti vs. LM MoS2. When I read that which ARCOgraphite claimed in BITOG (before I became a member here), I nodded in agreement. If my memory serve me correctly, some BITOG members dismissed that complaint. Because I had truly experienced that which I have described in this thread, I fully believe ARCOgraphite's complaint; now it's not a matter of me being inclined to reckon his claim to be credible. And he wrote that he also was compelled to drain the crankcase ASAP. Nevertheless, I choose to give you the benefit of doubt; in your case I tentatively conjecture that there may be additional factors involved, such as the engine metallurgy, automatic and manual transmissions. A fair and balanced mode of inquiry to pinpoint what works and what doesn't, is what I seek. Although my finding agrees with ARCOgraphite's finding, at this point that may or may not be enough to absolutely induce that any Ti laced oil is incompatible with MoS2. Assuming that your side of the story is a truthful one, for now all I can say of a certainty is that it is too risky to blend a few ounces of LM MoS2 with any engine oil carrying the new Titanium additive. Not denouncing Liqui Moly at all, I too like their products.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: tswm
ARCOgraphite a BITOG member posted here that he experienced some vexing drivability problem, to wit, Castrol Synth with Ti vs. LM MoS2.

Actually, when I read your original mention, I wondered, "Is this guy really ARCO?"

ARCO has a unique reputation here, but it pays attention to listen to what he says. He has had some of the worst luck of anyone I can imagine (a scatological magnet, as it were), but you do have to read his posts, or you will, sooner or later, miss something important.

You quoted ARCO, now be prepared for a drubbing.

 

[tswm]

Originally Posted By: JavierG
Funny because the two oils that made my Legend purr like a kitten were Kendall GT1 and Mobil Super 5000. I knew Kendall had ti but didn't learn about the ti in MS5K until I had run several OCI with it. Wish I hadn't given away those 40 quarts of MS5K couple years ago.


No fretting. I consider the most important OTC engine oil to be VWB (including the recycled version thereof in green bottles). Only has phosphorus and sodium additives (no moly, no titanium). TBN less than 7. I consider all those factors to actually be desirable for a brand new car. I opine this according to my own experience in part, and in part because of what I have learned here in BITOG. My opinion is that after draining the factory oil, on the very first oil change, use one of the following, in the 5W30 grade (even if the oil cap says 0W20):

VWB or Dura Blend or Chevron Supreme or PYB or QSAD or Trop Artic or Motorcraft Syn Blend or Honda Syn Blend (or maybe PP). Of these choices I present to myself, personally I would go with VWB to lay down the phosphorus layers on contact surfaces, trusting the sodium additive to do the rest, both helping to clean and protect; after 4K miles, do a second run: assuming the oil cap does not say 0W20, do a 4.5K to 5K run of either 5W30 VWB or some blend of 5W30 and 10W30 VWB (10W30 grade is not applicable to certain F-150 vehicles et al). Third oil change, run either Dura Blend or SynPower or PP or QSUD 10W30, if in just about anywhere in Calif, for 5K to 6K. Fourth oil change, the same for up to 7K. In subsequent oil changes (in many cases, go 10K+ OCI), if operating in warmer environment and the oil cap says 0W20, run the Caterham Blend, but run 100% TGMO, with or without LM MoS2, if operating in "polar vortex" environment. The other option may be to run 10K+ OCI utilizing any of the aforementioned oils laced with the titanium additive, without LM MoS2. Another viable option is to run PU/AMS Oil/Schaeffer 5W30 for 10K+ OCI, with or without LM MoS2, 5W20 being preferable for helping to start a cold engine in "polar vortex" environments. You know, the older Mobil 1 5W30 bottles used to say (in Australia, they may yet have the same words printed on the M1 5W30 bottles), "New Vehicle Formula".

So, no need to fret over no more MS5K stored up, because there are so many other wonderful choices at this time, as you are already aware. Beginning with little old VWB.

And there will yet be more MS5K put on specials later this year.

And specifically concerning your situation, it seems to me some kind of Max Life is a nearly perfect choice.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: tswm
No fretting. I consider the most important OTC engine oil to be VWB (including the recycled version thereof in green bottles). Only has phosphorus and sodium additives (no moly, no titanium). TBN less than 7. I consider all those factors to actually be desirable for a brand new car.

Now I know you're ARCO.

 

[Shannow]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3307984/Re:_Walmart_SuperTech_Syntheti#Post3307984

and save the money up front...

 

[tswm]

VWB is overpriced, but its low SAPS trait and the fact that its additives are of Lubrizol indicate to me that although it is not long drain engine oil, what I find appealing is that it must surely be very useful as a break in oil for remanufactured engines, and also for the very first oil change for a new car. Based on what I have read through BITOG, VWB being low SAPS is an especially beneficial trait for the DI engines, except something like Audi - there must be other things constituting the racing-like engines of that make, that I am not aware of, so use only what meets the Audi specs, I'm thinking because of the minimum HTHS viscosity requirement.

I suppose that running VWB the first two oil changes in the history of a new DI equipped car, I mean the more often purchased makes, thereafter either continuing with the same or switching over to one of these three mid SAPS oils, SynPower or MS5K or Kendall Syn Blend with Ti, will be highly beneficial to the DI engine, for most driving styles keeping it between 4.5K and 5K miles, and for severe service of short trips and stop and go let the OCI mileage be between 3.5K and 4K. I may be mistaken in this supposition, but I've read a small sample of VWB-DI + MS5K-DI + Kendall-DI oil analyses and read enough theoretical arguments in favor of VWB application on DI engines, to make this comment, so that's what I think on this matter for now.

I'm thinking, surely VWB is cheap to produce, so the typical retail prices of it even when put on sale is rather high, notwithstanding that I esteem it highly. Thinking it should be $3 or less.

 

[KitaCam]

I don't know enough about Honda's OLM, so I'll ask...does the per cent measure QUANTITY of oil (i.e. level) as well as QUALITY remaining...?

I ask because many people don't check the dipstick, relying on the OLM...even if it's just a 5k MAINT RECQD reminder light...I just saw one such owner in a tire/oil change shop last week...

If OP's Civic uses oil to the tune of say 1qt/5k miles I'd recommend bringing a quart on the 6k mile trip to add some in case the steady run of highway miles increases consumption...some cars do, some don't...OP could just check the level and buy some on the way, but on a vacation, that's an easy thing to forget...having the quart in the trunk is a good reminder...