My situation is similar to yours. It’s a 26 mile round trip to the nearest grocery store. I do 5,000 mile oil changes.
Oil for 2.7 ecoboost
- Thread starter Orangepeel
- Start date
Of course I do. Started at 9k and worked my way to this one, which will be 12k
Mine is a 2018. Bought it at a bit over 20k, in the 80k range now. First few changes were PUP at about 7500. Tried M1 0/40 FS for a run, filter showed no sign of extra goo (5k on that run) now it's got M1 5/30. Next change will either be M1 or PP 5/30. If WMart has Penz Euro 5/30 that day, I'll try it out. 5qt jugs of Euro L Penz are never in stock when I need oil it seems.
Just because the nose test on oil that comes out tells me it's getting plenty of fuel dilution, I am going to 5k intervals as it ages. I do some short trips (as does everyone) but I do a lot of long runs too and several times weekly.
Just because the nose test on oil that comes out tells me it's getting plenty of fuel dilution, I am going to 5k intervals as it ages. I do some short trips (as does everyone) but I do a lot of long runs too and several times weekly.
I run Castrol Edge EP 5w30 in my 2022 F150 2.7. Normally a M1 guy but the results folks have on here with the magnetic/Edge oils in these motors sold me. I also have a 2020 F150 3.5 issued to me that I've had since new that runs 0W40 Delvac with an 8,000 OCI. I remote start it in cold weather, beat on it, red line it occasionally and leave idling hours on end. 130,000 trouble free miles so far.
Just curious, I gotta know how they have “sold” you on the Castrol for your 2.7, especially when your work truck is living a much harder life than your 2.7 ever will, on longer OCIs no less, and on your preferred Mobil oil as well? Seems the Delvac has a lot of hard, indisputable data in its corner, so I’m dying to know.
It's a mid-SAPS 40-grade with 1% ash. It's a good oil and would be appropriate for many engines. I used it for a while in my Tiguan when it was on sale at a local farm store.
85,xxx miles on a 2018 F-150 2.7L Ecoboost. Used mostly for light towing, dragging a trailer around the country with motorcycles. The oil gets changed when the oil life monitor is between 30% and 40% remaining. That's around 7,000 miles.
It gets whatever 5W-30 "synthetic" is on sale. Typically Valvoline "advanced" or Mobil 1.
Like, can ya even buy oil that's NOT "synthetic" ? A recent review of the Walmart oil shelves... and I swear that everything there had "synthetic" on the label. There were a few that said "synthetic technology". Not sure what that means.
I just reviewed my "stash" and the labels all say "20,000 miles". My oil life monitor ages out way before that.
It gets whatever 5W-30 "synthetic" is on sale. Typically Valvoline "advanced" or Mobil 1.
Like, can ya even buy oil that's NOT "synthetic" ? A recent review of the Walmart oil shelves... and I swear that everything there had "synthetic" on the label. There were a few that said "synthetic technology". Not sure what that means.
I just reviewed my "stash" and the labels all say "20,000 miles". My oil life monitor ages out way before that.
I agree with the x-40w oil in the 2.7/3.5 family of engines. I know several people who have had phaser issues running 5w30 dealer serviced intervals. The issues with phaser rattle on these engines are well documented. I think long change interval, the micro soot for lack of a better term that is associated with direct injected engines that is documented wears on the chains and causes premature stretch. With a 40 weight oil the hot idle pressure is more consistent such as siting in traffic the phasers are less likely to loose pressure or have erratic pressure causing them to not stay in commanded position. These are all theories I have relating to these engines, I think Ford did a dis-service to their customers with their oil spec. I have ran M1 0w40 or QS 5w40 since my truck was new, 2015 3.5 doing 5500-6000 mile changes. 94000 miles on it now and it's done well. I think coolant changes are important as well, these engines run hot, keeping them cool is important.
Did the 0w40 or 5w40 affect your mpg?
Yes, physics is still physics. Automakers haven't been spending boatloads of money on lower viscosity oil engineering for nothing.
But can he detect the isolated difference? No way. It's buried deep in the noise of all the other variables in everyday driving.
But as he notes, fuel economy is not his reason for using a 40-grade.
Not that I could tell. If it did it's so insignificant as to not be noticeable.
my $.02: I am primarily concerned about ensuring that the oil stays in grade throughout the OCI so I change the oil about every 100 hours of engine running time. For me that is about 2500 miles of driving, or about 9 months. In my climate much of that 9 months will be cold weather (although I garage the truck) and that means a lot engine warming up time (not idle warming, just what the truck does to get the emissions system etc. up to temp) and I am happy to get that oil out of the sump. If there were any known benefit to the engine of an xw40 grade (aside from lengthening the OCI) I would use it but still change at the same rate. I have no critique of starting in a higher grade to end up as a 30 grade when the oil is changed, I just take the other route. I have been using M1 5w30 ESP. It has a higher HTHS and starting 100C viscosity than many other 30 grades. I buy it this time of year at AutoZone and get a free filter for my wife's Hyundai so it pencils out. Also, I just checked the IAT sensor in the intake manifold. At only 15k miles it had a surprising amount of baked on black stuff on it. Recommend folks give this a look on these engines also. It came mostly clean with a few sprays of MAF cleaner.
I also think these engines get a bad reputation, they are complex and with that increased complexity comes increased maintenance requirements. I think they are overall really good engines, make good/great power and can be reliable if taken care of. If you do your part I think they can be dependable for a long time. Unfortunately this can be said about many modern engines.
My OLM runs for just over 10k before the light comes on. On my UOA's I always list the OLM reading. The last one I took down to 0% for awhile and it came back with a TBN of 3.3 (for example).
Take a look at the numerous oil analysis done here in ecoboosts. The Castrol products consistently demonstrate low wear metals, not that big a deal but more importantly they stay in grade. Consistently. Agree the Delvac has a ton of data to support its use. This is my 11th work vehicle using it over 26 years. Zero engine oil problems. That said, I will not use a non specified oil when Im playing with my own money, even if it likely would not be an issue. I've had way too many Fords to risk giving them an inch.
Not me, the fleet mechanic who pumps it out of a 55 gallon drum. Just like he does for Explorers and Tahoes that spec 0W20. If I have an oil related issue not my problem, but it won't. When under warranty I'd prefer to stay with the recommended grade on my dime. That said if a 55 gallon drum of Delvac landed in my garage I'd happily run it in everything to include my wife's Highlander. End of the day 30 vs 40 just doesn't really matter. This is my second 2.7, no engine oil issues (oil pan issues different story). My sister has a 2016 2.7 with 175,000 on it changed every 10,000 ish with whatever 5/30 she grabbed at Walmart. She did have a turbo failure when the miles crept up.
Similar threads
