Not being a K&N oil filter user i understand that they are now welding a 1 .in nut on the bottom of their filters for easy removal,and reccommending the use of a large zip lock bag placed over the filter for those overhead messy removals. anybody think that J.B.Weld would hold a nut on a competitors filter for the same reason. Or might the filter Police be after me?
Oil filter nut
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Is it really important ?
I've thought about the reason for the nut on K&N and all I came up with is it allows precise torque to be applied. This may be important in race applications. Cap filter wrench would probably not be accurate (but it seems sufficient).
Perhaps it has value in some 'very' limit applications where there is no space. Real reason is likely marketing.
Welding doesn't seem like a good idea on filters with thin cans, such as Purolator. The welding could burn through.
I've thought about the reason for the nut on K&N and all I came up with is it allows precise torque to be applied. This may be important in race applications. Cap filter wrench would probably not be accurate (but it seems sufficient).
Perhaps it has value in some 'very' limit applications where there is no space. Real reason is likely marketing.
Welding doesn't seem like a good idea on filters with thin cans, such as Purolator. The welding could burn through.
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I don't think JB weld would do it, and you'd definitely have to get through the paint before you tried it.
Not sure why a cap on a 3/8 ratchet doesn't do the exact same thing.
Not sure why a cap on a 3/8 ratchet doesn't do the exact same thing.
Originally Posted By: glenncof
Welding doesn't seem like a good idea on filters with thin cans, such as Purolator. The welding could burn through.
He's not talking about welding, he's talking about using JB Weld to hold a nut in place. It's a two part epoxy you mix up and apply.
Welding doesn't seem like a good idea on filters with thin cans, such as Purolator. The welding could burn through.
He's not talking about welding, he's talking about using JB Weld to hold a nut in place. It's a two part epoxy you mix up and apply.
You're probably just better off buying the K&N if the nut means that much to you. Typically, after I get the (gorilla applied)factory filter off, I never have a problem removing mine.
I do have a K&N in my stash (never used one prior), but now I'm wondering if I actually have a 1" socket.
I do have a K&N in my stash (never used one prior), but now I'm wondering if I actually have a 1" socket.
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I thought the post was about Gary Allan.
Originally Posted By: glenncof
Is it really important ?
I've thought about the reason for the nut on K&N and all I came up with is it allows precise torque to be applied. This may be important in race applications. Cap filter wrench would probably not be accurate (but it seems sufficient).
Perhaps it has value in some 'very' limit applications where there is no space. Real reason is likely marketing.
Welding doesn't seem like a good idea on filters with thin cans, such as Purolator. The welding could burn through.
Here is a pic of the inside of a can with a nut on the end.
Is it really important ?
I've thought about the reason for the nut on K&N and all I came up with is it allows precise torque to be applied. This may be important in race applications. Cap filter wrench would probably not be accurate (but it seems sufficient).
Perhaps it has value in some 'very' limit applications where there is no space. Real reason is likely marketing.
Welding doesn't seem like a good idea on filters with thin cans, such as Purolator. The welding could burn through.
Here is a pic of the inside of a can with a nut on the end.
Thanks for the input guys the nut is really not that important to me i just don't like the oil running down my arm when hot and cleaning the spillage of of where it hits the lower components of my 04 Explorer 4.0 s.o.h.c. Haveing some Jb weld on hand and useing Wix filters i think i'll give it a try and see if it works not much to lose as everything is in my stash.
Be well
Be well
Originally Posted By: Steve S
I thought the post was about Gary Allan.
Good one!!
I thought the post was about Gary Allan.
JB weld is strong for tensile strength but, not for shear so probably not a good idea. Use a cap wrench
I've used the K&N on my bike, and just a word to the wise ... if you use the nut on the end, make sure to use a 6-point socket. The filter was pretty tight (got locked on with time), and I used a 12-point socket and the cheesy nut (it's just bent sheet metal tack welded on) caved in and became useless. Had to go with the "screw driver through the can" and "channel lock" removal procedure after that.
I use a rubber strap wrench if the filter can't be accessed with a regular band wrench.
Originally Posted By: glenncof
I use a rubber strap wrench if the filter can't be accessed with a regular band wrench.
Yes, I tried that in my situation but it was super tight quarters. If you own a sportbike you'd know how tight the filter is crammed in there.
I use a rubber strap wrench if the filter can't be accessed with a regular band wrench.
Yes, I tried that in my situation but it was super tight quarters. If you own a sportbike you'd know how tight the filter is crammed in there.
Quote:
I don't think JB weld would do it, and you'd definitely have to get through the paint before you tried it.
I probably shouldn't admit this, but I did use epoxy once to glue a nut on the end of a filter. It was a regular homemade K&N! Epoxy worked great. Paint didn't. Bolt and paint snapped right off as soon as I turned the wrench.
Went back to buying K&N's.
I don't think JB weld would do it, and you'd definitely have to get through the paint before you tried it.
I probably shouldn't admit this, but I did use epoxy once to glue a nut on the end of a filter. It was a regular homemade K&N! Epoxy worked great. Paint didn't. Bolt and paint snapped right off as soon as I turned the wrench.
Went back to buying K&N's.
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Quote:
I probably shouldn't admit this
Why? We're discussing someone wanting to try this very same thing. You've just shared your failed experience. Now a bunch of other people will rethink the process ..attempt to either improve upon your results ..validate your results ..or abandon the notion.
I probably shouldn't admit this
Why? We're discussing someone wanting to try this very same thing. You've just shared your failed experience. Now a bunch of other people will rethink the process ..attempt to either improve upon your results ..validate your results ..or abandon the notion.
Those orange Fram filters have a rough black grippy coating on the end if them. That's plenty to get them on and off bare handed.
Plus, you get the satisfaction of knowing your using the extremely high quality (practically best filter at any price) BITOG favorite!
Plus, you get the satisfaction of knowing your using the extremely high quality (practically best filter at any price) BITOG favorite!
Originally Posted By: ksJoe
Those orange Fram filters have a rough black grippy coating on the end if them. That's plenty to get them on and off bare handed.
Plus, you get the satisfaction of knowing your using the extremely high quality (practically best filter at any price) BITOG favorite!
This is your brain on drugs.....
.
Whimsey
Those orange Fram filters have a rough black grippy coating on the end if them. That's plenty to get them on and off bare handed.
Plus, you get the satisfaction of knowing your using the extremely high quality (practically best filter at any price) BITOG favorite!
This is your brain on drugs.....
Whimsey
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