KN Filter BLOW OUT at the "nut weld"....

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Originally Posted By: yonyon
...but a robot that's programmed to make a good weld under normal operating conditions can be fed poor material or incorrect voltage or get distracted by a cute toaster walking by. These things happen. It hasn't got eyes to watch the colors and see that the weld is good every time and, should a questionable weld occur, correct it after the fact as a human might...........



LMAO!
laugh.gif
smile.gif



...."geeze Ralph check out the buns on her"
 
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Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
The nut is for removal of filter.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Install, NO; removal, YES.


How does the nut know (or care) which way it's being turned? Torque is torque.

Originally Posted By: Garak
Wouldn't the nut be welded onto a sealed can after the fact?


That's correct. The cans are either DRD or just a straight draw operation and the sheetmetal nut is welded on after the can is made.
 
Originally Posted By: scurvy
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
The nut is for removal of filter.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Install, NO; removal, YES.


How does the nut know (or care) which way it's being turned? Torque is torque.

True that. However, if there was a 'weakness' at some point along the nut weld, or it's only intended for one time removal, an issue would be less likely to show during the oci if the nut was not used to install the filter.

But, the point seems moot as the OP said it was installed 'hand tight'. That to me says the nut was not used for install.

OT Not to make light of OP's experience, serious, however it does remind me of when the topic of the K/N nut was previously posted here. It goes like this, sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't.......... Mounds is the winner here.
55.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Never believe anything written on the internet from an unconfirmed source .... as meaning no photo attached to this thread.


So when I tell you my valve train is quieter on 5W-40...I have to send you a PHOTO of that??????
 
Originally Posted By: scurvy
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
The nut is for removal of filter.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Install, NO; removal, YES.


How does the nut know (or care) which way it's being turned? Torque is torque.

Originally Posted By: Garak
Wouldn't the nut be welded onto a sealed can after the fact?


That's correct. The cans are either DRD or just a straight draw operation and the sheetmetal nut is welded on after the can is made.


While removing, the torque required is that to break the rubber gasket from its seat.

While installing, the gasket can be crushed to the point that the metal of the filter will seat against metal.

Logically, which would you guess results in more potential torque? Furthermore, in which instance that might result in failure would it even matter; while the filter is being installed or while the filter is being removed?

I hope this answered your question.

Originally Posted By: ammolab
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Never believe anything written on the internet from an unconfirmed source .... as meaning no photo attached to this thread.


So when I tell you my valve train is quieter on 5W-40...I have to send you a PHOTO of that??????


Reread his post before you get all worked up, sheesh! He meant that the OP did not provide a picture of the failed filter...
 
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Originally Posted By: tpitcher

Dude, we need a picture.....



"DUDE"...the leak was UNDER the sheet metal NUT flange, not photo handy, and even if I could get a camera in there....I am not going to ask my son to ship me a oily filter from Texas to N Mexico. Should I photoshop something for ya?

If you think I made this whole thing up..OK fine. I just thought it would be food for thought for those who use these filters regularly.
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: scurvy
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
The nut is for removal of filter.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Install, NO; removal, YES.


How does the nut know (or care) which way it's being turned? Torque is torque.

Originally Posted By: Garak
Wouldn't the nut be welded onto a sealed can after the fact?


That's correct. The cans are either DRD or just a straight draw operation and the sheetmetal nut is welded on after the can is made.


While removing, the torque required is that to break the rubber gasket from its seat.

While installing, the gasket can be crushed to the point that the metal of the filter will seat against metal.

Logically, which would you guess results in more potential torque? Furthermore, in which instance that might result in failure would it even matter; while the filter is being installed or while the filter is being removed?

I hope this answered your question.

Originally Posted By: ammolab
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Never believe anything written on the internet from an unconfirmed source .... as meaning no photo attached to this thread.


So when I tell you my valve train is quieter on 5W-40...I have to send you a PHOTO of that??????


Reread his post before you get all worked up, sheesh! He meant that the OP did not provide a picture of the failed filter...
Well, I AM THE OP! There was nothing to see OR PHOTO as the leak was under the sheet metal Nut and not accessable for a photo.
 
Originally Posted By: ammolab
If you think I made this whole thing up..OK fine. I just thought it would be food for thought for those who use these filters regularly.


I can never understand why people don't believe things like this can happen, and why they would think someone would just make stuff up to get a kick/rise out of people on the internet.
 
I've done my share of free body diagrams and don't appreciate the tone of your post, frankly.

Originally Posted By: gathermewool
While removing, the torque required is that to break the rubber gasket from its seat.

While installing, the gasket can be crushed to the point that the metal of the filter will seat against metal.

Logically, which would you guess results in more potential torque? Furthermore, in which instance that might result in failure would it even matter; while the filter is being installed or while the filter is being removed?


If your installation scenario is correct, one would also have to overcome the metal-to-metal friction of the filter can to engine block (which could be substantial) as well as the thread friction (however negligible).

I heartily agree that the only scenario in which this makes any difference is if you developed a hole in the can while installing it using the nut. And in this case these are just engineers' farts in the wind as it happened upon installation when the nut was not used.
 
Sounds like a design flaw if one in a million develop a leak.

I wonder if the can body could have the "nut" stamped into it rather than welding a nut onto the top?
 
Originally Posted By: scurvy
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
The nut is for removal of filter.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Install, NO; removal, YES.


How does the nut know (or care) which way it's being turned? Torque is torque.



I wouldnt be worried about the nut, but rather the shear on the can. That causes all kinds of stresses in different directions...
 
Originally Posted By: Chevys_n_Hawgs
Dude, I still call Bull Puckey



Yes, I can see that you do. Now that you have disturbed the whole class....please return to your seat.
 
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