Oil/filter for new LaSabre

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pbm

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My friend just purchased a new 05' Buick LaSabre and asked me what oil and filter he should use. I suggested Mobil 7500 and Purolator PP twice a year (this works out to 5 to 7k for him). Does anybody disagree or have a better idea? Also I noticed that the 3.8 now calls for 5w30 year round. When did GM change from their 10w30 recommendation for this engine? Have internal engine clearances been tightened up or is it that GM is now comfortable with "thinner" oil in this application?
PS: Maybe I'm getting old but I really like the LaSabre and feel it is a great value for the money.
 
If I were changing twice a year and extending OCI to 7k, I'd probably use a better $5-6 filter like Pureone or Wix. The Mobil 7500 is probably fine, for that interval I'd pick up whatever group 3 or better "full" synthetic is on sale or free. Between the AZ clearances, Mobil 5000 promos, and Valvoline rebates, I haven't paid more than half price for oil in a year now...

Yeah, I really love the LeSabre for those mind-numbing highway rides. Just sit back and click off the miles-- just don't try to take a corner above 35 mph. That's why I have the other car...
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Do the new LeSabres still use the 3.8L engine?

If so, this is what I'd do every 5-7.5k miles:

Mobil 1 10w-30
AC Delco PF47/PF52 oil filter

I actually use the oversized AC Delco PF52 oil filter on the 3.8L engines so that I can pour in exactly 5 qts. of oil in the engine. When you use the smaller PF47, you can only pour in 4.5 qts. What the heck am I supposed to do with .5 qts. of oil?
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That car should last 200,000+ miles EASILY on that recipe
 
Yeah, they still use the 3.8L. I would highly reccommend the PF52 over the small PF47 if you're going to go with AC Delco filters. If I'm not mistaken, the 3.8L calls for the PF52 anyway. My Grand Am with the 3.4L calls for the PF47 but I've always used the bigger PF52.
 
I like the oversize [or its equivalent] filter as well, but I was a little nervous about it for this application, with the can hanging down that low. The difference in filter size only actually accounts for an additional few ounces of oil.

The 5W-30 designation I'm sure has only to do with fuel economy. I'd use that if you were in a cold climate. I doubt they've changed anything about that engine in the last 10 years now, which was the production run for the "series II" 3800. Keep a sharp eye on the coolant level as the car ages.
 
Use the oil life monitor or 1 year changes, whatever is dictated by warranty.

The oil life monitor is fairly conservative, changing oil more frequently, especially top-notch Mobil1 oil, is a complete waste of time and money.
 
Use the OLM and a fine synthetic oil like Mobil 1 5w30. For a filter I would recommend a Mobil 1 or a Purolator Pure One.

BTW, I had a 1990 Buick Park Avenue with the 3800 engine, I am pretty sure the oil recommended was 5w30 for that engine.
 
I just started taking care of my grandma's 1996 LeSabre for her, as my grandpa just recently passed away. Being as how she has no idea about when any service was last done, I took it to a local service shop that I trust almost as much as myself. They did a complete service inspection, including changing the oil and filter. The 1996 3800 V-6 calls for 10w-30, but they went ahead and put in Pennzoil 5w-30 with a Wix filter (PN 51040).

When I got the car back to her house, I did a quick "sanity check" under the hood. Upon looking in the oil filler cap/hole, I couldn't believe the crud that was caked up. The car only has 31,200 miles, but these are all "grandparent" miles, so I really wasn't that suprised. As soon as I got home, I ordered a bottle of Auto-Rx...
 
I think the Mobil Clean 7500 is great, however the 3800 is not totally immune to coolant leaks and the high sodium in VOA's of this oil might add some confusion if he plans to UOA any.

My 2000 Regal manual recommends 10W-30 above 0°F and is on the oil filler cap.

I'm currently using the GC 0W-30 and loving it.
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My 3800 call for the PF-47 filter. 4.5 qts. works for me, because I usually need to top up in a full oci.

Great cars, great engine, great value, but no fun to drive. Oh well, my wallet is happier.

Do I need synthetic? No, but right at 100K, I figure it just getting broken in. Should do 300K, so why not.
 
I'd suggest using Supertech Synthetic 5w-30 ($2.40/quart) and a Premium Plus Filter and change as recommended by the OLM OR 6-months, whichever comes first.

Supertech Syn is about the same price as Clean 7500, but it is a Grp III syn, which is still superior to a dino.

Michael
 
Great cars! Size, comfort, fuel economy (if driven by the "Instant Fuel Economy" readout), and generally good performance. Fuel economy will put many import brands to shame too.

Cornering? Has more to do with tire choice and sway bars than anything else. A Bonneville SSEi in conservative duds, so to speak, as it all fits under there. The '98 Regal with GranTouring Suspension will corner so good it's scare you (with the Eagle LS tires) and when new . . . no float.

Engine should be the Series II, rather than the Series III (with fly by wire throttle controls). I concur the PF52 will not hold a whole lot more oil than the PF47 . . . but whatever makes you happy.

The 5W-30 oil spec might be more or a standardization move as most of GM's gas engines now have that oil spec in light duty vehicles. Used to be that light trucks over 8600GVW ratings used 10W-30 and under 8600GVW used 5W-30. Over 8600 GVW vehicles were not EPA rated for fuel economy on the window sticker.

I would personally favor Castrol GTX or SynTec Blend in 5W-30, but as long as the oil meets the min specs in the owners manual, choice is your judgment call. It doesn't take really exotic oil to keep that engine alive for many 100K miles. Coolant leak issues have been addressed with a cast plenum (replacing the composite version of prior years).

CBODY67
 
These engines are so easy on oil that your oil choice is going to be a milage oxidation issue more then anything else! I would definately look at some UOA on here and look at reports of oils that have made it 5000-7500 miles as a matter of routine! Personely if I was only changeing the oil twice a year I would go with synthetic like M1EP or TSUV that engine only holds 4.5 quarts of oil so for $19-$23 plus $2.50 for a Walmart oil filter he is good to go for 6 months no brainer! That is like $40-$46 dollars a year for oil and $5 a year for oil filters! That seems cheap to me! When you look at the price of gas oil is cheap enough!

P.S. 10W30 works just fine in every 3800 made in the last 15 years no problem!!! The switch from 10W30 to 5W30 is all about C.A.F.E.!!!
 
JB,
I just think T&SUV is way too thick.

BTW, I think to the Big 3, the switch to 5w-30 from 10w-30 yielded a 0.5% increase in fuel efficiency, which can really boost their C.A.F.E.

Michael
 
quote:

> Fm pbm b>
> Maybe I'm getting old but I really like the LaSabre and feel it is a great value for the money.b>

My wife has a '97, and it is a fabulous car. Ours has the "Grand Touring" package. What a way to travel any distance. On that car, I'm using straight 30 weight and for a filter, the Purolator PureOne #PL24011.
quote:

> Fm I B Janky > I actually use the oversized AC Delco PF52 oil filter on the 3.8L engines so that I can pour in exactly 5 qts. of oil in the engine. <

Ditto for me, with the exception regards the oil filter brand. I change her oil max every three months, simply because she is not the lightest person using a gas pedal. As I added a Fumoto oil drain valve (replacing the draing plug), I can change the oil without evening lifting up the car. The filter is changed bewteen 3-5,000 miles.
 
To reinforce an earlier post, the bounced GM's engineer's references to using the oil life monitor makes a lot of sense to me. I'm using it with PZ dino 5w30 and an ST filter and will probably keep it in for 7000 miles at least.

The GM 3.8 (like the 3.5 in my Maxx) is very easy on oil and the OLM seems very sophisticated. I wouldn't worry a bit, especially with Mobil 1.
 
MichaelWan, Thinking is one thing knowing is another. In my wifes 1997 Buick LaSaber with a 3800 V6 I have ran the following.I have run Delo 400 15W40,Rotella-T Synthetic 5W40,Delvac 1300 15W40,J.D.+50 15W40,Chevron Supreme 10W30,5W30,Castrol Synthetic Blend 15W40,Walmart 5W30. I have also ran Castrol 5W50 in it as well! It works just great and is not too thick!The car actualy likes the 40Wt.'s over the 30Wt.'s and the 5W part is not an issue 5W40 and 5W30 are both 5W..... All 5W rated oils have to pass the same SAE tests to earn the 5W rateing!

How do you explain Redline 5W40 performiong flawlessly at -18°F in my 2003 Camry? My Camry has a lightweight low drag oil pump and is about as tight as an engine can get with all low friction parts.
 
Miami-Dade I am not a leming(sp)! I can make my own decision as to what is best for my vechile!I also assume everyone else should be allowed to do the same.For crying out loud if we all followed your advive almost no one on this site would be useing anything other then 5W20 and 5W30 with the exception of European car owners and those owners of American made cars outside of the USA! IF the dealership used 15W50 that would be ok with you inspite of the owners manual and what is printed on the 710 cap? I ask this becasue my local five star Dodge dealership does just that! They recomend M1 15W50 in the summer months for anyone driveing a Viper,Dakota,Magnum,300C or Ram!! Now I happen to agree with them but that is beside the point! I know that all of them other then maybe the Viper do not call out 15W50 as a prefered viscosity! I have never seen a Vipers owner manual and do not recall what is on the cap?

Have you ever done any warranty work as a technician at a dealership? Ever had a warranty claim denied due to oil viscosity used. Every had a technician ask you what oil viscosity you were useing? Unless you come in with a sludged up motor or a motor that is dry you are preety much off the hook. You could also tell them what they want to hear witch is exactly what they tell you most of the time!

What do think 5W40 or 10W30 is going to do to hurt the engine? What is the mechanism of failure for these over a 5W30? How is the tech. at the dealership going to know that it is not 5W30?
 
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