I agree because silica- dust basically- is so abrasive and it’s all over in the air. It can clOther contamination such as wear metal and combustion by products can’t be controlled with air filtration obviously but can be controlled by regular oil/filter changes.
Oil filter crazy
- Thread starter Durdude
- Start date
Well wear metal won't be trapped by the filter as that is way too small. But there may be metallic particles in the engine from production or damage that is trapped, or pieces of carbon.
Once something gets in the oil (be it from a bad air filter, combustion blow-by, etc) the only thing left to capture that debris is the oil filter ... it's basically the last defense against engine wear. So why not use one that has higher filtering efficiency than not ... I mean it is a "filter" and is meant to remove contamination from the oil. Why were oil filters ever invented in the first place ? 
I spent most of my life working on industrial equipment and the air filter is the most important filter . I have seen poorly installed or the wrong air filter installed which led to massive dirt injestion destroy diesel engines in a month of use. I have seen a bypass filter only engines vs. having the manufacture change to a full flow filter in later production and have its operation life doubled. The oil filter is important butthe high mile engines we see posts about are not running premium filters.
This is a big one.
^^^ What's left to filter debris from an engine if the air filter isn't great or leaks/fails. Yeah, that's right ... the oil filter. Once debris gets into the sump nothing else is left to remove it except an OCI. Sure, it won't help reduce the wear from dirt/debris getting past the air filter and inside the cylinders and causing direct ring and cylinder wear, but if a higher efficiency oil filter is used it certainly can help reduce wear if that debris gets blown past the rings and into the sump.
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Pick and appropriate oil and filters (air and oil), and change regularly. Do other reasonable maintenance. You can get any (non salt winter state) vehicle to 500k if you maintain and wash it regularly, especially the underbody. 500k at a normal use is do-able but represents ~30 years so at that age, rust is one of the worst enemies. So keep it clean underneath.
FRAM seems to have some quality control issues, I was checking out the Extra Guard filter to see if I could identify if they switched to metal end caps or not which I could not. But there was metal and what seemed like plastic material on the threads and inlet holes.
I have seen other videos of rust issues as well on FRAM. With that beind said FRAM Ultra seems to be one of the best filters in terms of efficiency. Just inspect it before you buy it, which honestly you should inspect any filter before buying it but more so with FRAM.
I do not believe in extended oil change intervals, personally 5k is the max I would go but if you must go extended oil change intervals try to bring it closer to the 6k range instead of 7,500. I know we are in tough times and money is tight but engines are not cheap.
Purolator One offers 99% at 20 microns and 99% at 25 Microns for the BOSS which in my opinion seems to have better quality control.
I have seen other videos of rust issues as well on FRAM. With that beind said FRAM Ultra seems to be one of the best filters in terms of efficiency. Just inspect it before you buy it, which honestly you should inspect any filter before buying it but more so with FRAM.
I do not believe in extended oil change intervals, personally 5k is the max I would go but if you must go extended oil change intervals try to bring it closer to the 6k range instead of 7,500. I know we are in tough times and money is tight but engines are not cheap.
Purolator One offers 99% at 20 microns and 99% at 25 Microns for the BOSS which in my opinion seems to have better quality control.
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2024
I know this is just my experience, but I have done 7500 mile oil changes on two cars since around the 16k mile mark (both bought used) and both are over 300k miles. 2001 BMW 540 346,000 miles. 2007 Toyota Tundra 4.7L 313,000 miles. Factory oil filters and BMW LL01 spec oil in the BMW, and in the Tundra I use whatever 5w-30 synthetic is on sale. Engines have never been rebuilt and run great. No significant oil consumption. About 1/4 quart on the BMW and maybe 1/2 quart on the Tundra. I don't even bother to top up in between.
Some have good luck, others not so much. Me personally it is just not something I believe in because there has been cases of people doing 7,500 mile intervals or even 10-15,000 mile intervals and they do start to sludge up but not as much on people who do mostly highway driving. But obviously there is no denying the quality of oil is far superior now and can do it.
I just don't recommend it and it is not something I personally would do especially with these newer direct injection and turbo charged engines.
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2024
7500 miles is not extended on an E39 BMW. The factory oil change interval is 15,000 miles, using a specific oil, Longlife-01, designed for that purpose. I use the same oil, LL01 but cut the interval in half. 7500 miles is pretty standard interval for new cars now...some are 10k.
