Oil filter change interval

[Wireman1987]

I misinterpreted the post… I would do oil and filter change annually, no need to run a filter two years.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Take it for a drive on the highway and any moisture in the crankcase should get boiled off before the engine is even up to full temperature.

Think it's going to take a bit more than that ... needs a longer drive where the oil is at full operating temperature for awhile. If the oil never gets to full operating temperature, then it may not take care of all moisture in the sump. On my vehicles that may get a 2 year OCI, they always get driven at least 25 miles at full operating temperature to ensure any combustion blow-by that gets into to the sump during cold start and warm-up gets totally burned off.

 

[BilTheGalacticHero]

How many miles actually?

I would consider running the filter another year if it’s already on and significantly less than 5K

2,500 miles.

 

[BilTheGalacticHero]

I should have added that I'm on crutches for a while so that complicates things. I have a Fumoto valve so the oil change is easy. The filter is a bit harder (and messier... Ford didn't really seem to care where the oil goes when you change the filter on the 4x4 F150). So, it's not the cost of the filter it's the actual changing. Truck has 2,500 miles on it in a year. I'm in San Diego and it's 75 degrees today so summer/winter isn't much of a factor.

 

[HemiBenny]

Well, according to lickity split 10 speed lake dude, the longer you keep the filter on, the more efficient it gets.

I’m pretty sure that he’s a smart guy, but when he poured a new quart of oil to “flush” the old oil out, I stopped watching any of his videos.
That’s a waste if anything is!

 

[4wd]

Think it's going to take a bit more than that ... needs a longer drive where the oil is at full operating temperature for awhile. If the oil never gets to full operating temperature, then it may not take care of all moisture in the sump. On my vehicles that may get a 2 year OCI, they always get driven at least 25 miles at full operating temperature to ensure any combustion blow-by that gets into to the sump during cold start and warm-up gets totally burned off.

Yeah, I have watched the digital gauges several times - takes far longer for the oil temperature to reach max vs the coolant temperature …

 

[kschachn]

Combustion blow-by past the rings and into the nottom end. If it's short tripped, and the oil doesn't get hot enough long enough, then the oil can become moisture contaminated. Ever open up a PCV catch-can after a bunch of short trips, especially in cold weather? Or look under the oil fill cap and see the light brown bould-up for condensation build-up?

Definitely with short tripping. I just didn't see that in the OP's post.

 

[pbm]

Where is the moisture coming from?

I have found that continued 'short tripping' has caused that mayonnaise like creamy stuff on the oil fill cap on some cars I've serviced. I've always assumed that was caused by the short tripping failing to remove moisture?

 

[ZeeOSix]

I have found that continued 'short tripping' has caused that mayonnaise like creamy stuff on the oil fill cap on some cars I've serviced. I've always assumed that was caused by the short tripping failing to remove moisture?

Yes, and it can be worse if the PCV system isn't working well. A PCV catch-can will catch a lot of water on cold days, which shows how much moisture can get into the sump from combustion blow-by.

 

[Wireman1987]

Yes, and it can be worse if the PCV system isn't working well. A PCV catch-can will catch a lot of water on cold days, which shows how much moisture can get into the sump from combustion blow-by.

do you think a product like HEET or ISO-HEET would help any bit?

 

[SC Maintenance]

Yes, and it can be worse if the PCV system isn't working well. A PCV catch-can will catch a lot of water on cold days, which shows how much moisture can get into the sump from combustion blow-by.

I never thought of that but a catch can might be a great idea for something that is short tripped frequently.

 

[ZeeOSix]

do you think a product like HEET or ISO-HEET would help any bit?

Don't think so because HEET is to absorb moisture that's in the fuel. Most of the moisture that gets into the oil is from the by product of combustion blowing by the piston rings.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Don't think so because HEET is to absorb moisture that's in the fuel. Most of the moisture that gets into the oil is from the by product of combustion blowing by the piston rings.

I always thought it was mostly plain old condensation in the crankcase / valve covers. Vapor in the air condenses while warming up and cooling down - doesn't stay running long enough to boil it off. Rinse / repeat?

 

[ZeeOSix]

I always thought it was mostly plain old condensation in the crankcase / valve covers. Vapor in the air condenses while warming up and cooling down - doesn't stay running long enough to boil it off. Rinse / repeat?

Some of that too since the PCV system does draw in fresh air to replace the air and vapors it sucks out of the crankcase that goes to the intake to be burn in the combustion chambers again. There is a lot of condensation created in the combustion process ... that's why water drains out the end of the exhaust system during the warm-up phase. A catch-can helps remove some of that moisture drawn out of the sump before it gets reintroduced into the intake manifold for another chance to get in the sump through combustion again.

 

[CR94]

I always thought it was mostly plain old condensation in the crankcase / valve covers. Vapor in the air condenses while warming up and cooling down - doesn't stay running long enough to boil it off. Rinse / repeat?

Water vapor from incoming air is trivial compared to the amount of water vapor in blowby gas. Even during 100% humidity weather, if incoming PCV air were the only source, it wouldn't condense at all in the crankcase, because the crankcase is almost always warmer than the incoming air. Vapor doesn't condense until cooled below its dew point.