Extended Oil Filter Change Interval

[IanInCalgary]

About a year ago someone posted that he had been running extending oil filter replacement intervals and keeping track of the suspended solids in the oil. As I recall, he found that around 40,000 miles was the maximum oil filter change interval – more miles and the suspended solids would start to increase.

As a result of his tests I’ve changed my oil filter element every other oil change. I’ve done this twice now and on the second oil change (same time as filter change) there is only a hint of metal on my magnetic drain plug. On the first oil change there is a small amount of metal – but noticeably more than on the second oil change. My car is out of warranty so I’ve increased the oil change interval to 10,000 km (it was 8,000 km per the owner’s manual. This engine/vehicle combination was one of the few that did not have Toyota’s blessing a few years ago to increase the oil change interval to 16,000 km if using Toyota 0w-20).

I have a 2010 RAV4 4-cylinder and run Toyota 0w-20 and Toyota filter elements. The filter housing can be drained without taking the housing off the engine so draining all the oil is quite easy even when the filter element stays in position.

The take-away from this? Unless you have other reasons to change the oil filter (e.g. you might suspect a coolant leak into the oil) consider extending your oil filter change interval, your engine might thank you.

Ian

 

[skyactiv]

Okay

 

[69GTX]

Coming up on my annual Camaro oil change. About 1000 miles since the last one. I'm tempted to go a 2nd year on the Fram UG filter. Have 3 more of those in inventory.

 

[Mr Nice]

I did 5 years and approx 12K miles on a Mobil 1 M-104 filter on my dad's Honda.

 

[DGXR]

Even if I was inclined to do this, I would certainly do UOA to confirm everything is going well along the way. I would not simply jump to double or triple the service life of any replaceable filter unless I was sure it is OK.

The reference to the other user who went 40,000 miles on a single oil filter, that is great, but I would want to see some evidence of this: an analysis report, photos of the used filter deconstructed, or something else.

About the metal particles on the magnetic drain plug, it is well known that filtration efficiency increases as the filter media loads up. Along with increased efficiency you will get decreased flow. Decreased flow is OK up to the point where the bypass valve opens regularly when the engine is at normal temperature. The engine will still get oil, but less and less of that oil will be properly filtered. You don't want to go that far. That is why most manufacturers recommend replacing filters at regular intervals.

 

[blupupher]

I just can't make myself do it.
I change the oil and the filter at the same time, even though I know every other changes with a quality filter is probably just fine.

I remember back in the mid to late 80's as a teen I changed oil in some Toyota trucks (22R/22R-E engines) that a pool company used.
The owner had me change the filters every other oil drain and he used whatever cheap name brand 30 wt oil he found.
Oil changes were done every other month on the trucks (trucks drove 500-1000 miles a week).
They lasted 200,000+ miles till the beds started rusting away (due to the pool chemicals), never had any oil related failures in the 10 years I worked there (30 or so trucks).

 

[fdcg27]

This is probably a sound plan that I don't follow personally.
I prefer to change the oil filter at each drain.
Simple, cheap and easy.
OTOH, Honda recommends that a filter be run for two intervals and they probably know more than I do.

 

[WallyMaven]

Originally Posted By: DGXR
Even if I was inclined to do this, I would certainly do UOA to confirm everything is going well along the way. I would not simply jump to double or triple the service life of any replaceable filter unless I was sure it is OK.

The reference to the other user who went 40,000 miles on a single oil filter, that is great, but I would want to see some evidence of this: an analysis report, photos of the used filter deconstructed, or something else.

About the metal particles on the magnetic drain plug, it is well known that filtration efficiency increases as the filter media loads up. Along with increased efficiency you will get decreased flow. Decreased flow is OK up to the point where the bypass valve opens regularly when the engine is at normal temperature. The engine will still get oil, but less and less of that oil will be properly filtered. You don't want to go that far. That is why most manufacturers recommend replacing filters at regular intervals.


For me I can't get over the hangup of new oil going through a dirty filter. Plus I don't trust filters to hold together for long periods of time. Likely sometime this year I'll switch to installing a bypass filter and extended OCI with a regular change of my full flow filter. I just want constant and full oil pressure going to the engine. I've even been looking at those HUBB stainless steel oil filters since they claim a better oil flow. Reasonable filtration on the full flow filter and a good flow of oil; that's what I am shooting for. Let the bypass filter do the fine filtration.

 

[HonorAndHonesty]

I *WISH* I still had the M1 filter from my parents caravan that likely had 20k miles and years on a OCI due to my father lackadaisical automobile maintenance habits. I saved it for a long time but finally got rid of it last year.

That would have been a sight im sure.

 

[compratio10_5]

Cyclic testing of hydraulic oil filters proves that oil filter efficiency decreases with use. Testing of lube oil filter efficiency is at steady state conditions with artificial contamination being introduced at hundreds of times the normal rate. Only when I can see dynamic testing that duplicates actual operating conditions such as cold starts and cyclic flow rate changes would I consider extending the oil filter service interval beyond the oil change interval.

 

[Linctex]

If your engine is clean internally, it's obvious that 15,000 miles is nothing (at least for a warm weather vehicle, winter is harder on them)

15,000+ mile Fram Tough Guard: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4426839/Fram_TG10575_cut_open_15,000_m

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Coming up on my annual Camaro oil change. About 1000 miles since the last one. I'm tempted to go a 2nd year on the Fram UG filter.


I think you are changing BOTH oil and filter far, far, far too often.

 

[Joenpb]

Less metal on an oil pan magnet on a second oil change cycle could also be an indication of restricted oil system circulation. Oil filters are inexpensive, and we've seen numerous failures in them as well. It's a no brainer go with OEM recommendations on OCI and filter replacement.

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted By: 5AcresAndAFool
I *WISH* I still had the M1 filter from my parents caravan that likely had 20k miles and years on a OCI due to my father lackadaisical automobile maintenance habits. ... That would have been a sight im sure.
Why? The media of filters I've taken off with nearly that mileage have generally been very boring to inspect---nothing much big enough to see except a few tiny black particles, and only rarely a tiny shiny particle.

 

[goodtimes]

Even Exxon Mobil, one of the largest companies in the world, says to change the filter after one year on their filter package. If someone drives 1000 miles per year there is a chance there is water in the oil or filter, depending on the actual conditions.

 

[4WD]

The guy who put 40k on an oil filter is a bold one - no filter will ever pass 10k on something I paid for.

 

[4WD]

Good info - Guess I can handle $5.67/year for another XG10575 ... (or M1 212's on sale) ...