Oil Consumption-2010 RAV4-V6

[Kuato]

Kuato-Just curious,, does your 2015 4Runner use a spin on canister filter or a cartridge insert? My 4Runner is a 2008. I've been using the Mobil 1 extended performance filter but I'm considering switching to either the Fram Ultra Synthetic or the Purolator Boss. Not sure about the Fram because I watched a video where the guy cut it open and the can had a bunch of rust inside of it...On the other hand the Purolator Boss looked pretty impressive and well built....so did the Fram with the exception of the rust.

It's the cartridge...but they're very similar apart from that, and the crankshaft and the 2010-up having dual vvt rather than single. Solid & dependable for 400k+

I'd have nonissue using the Ultra, even with a little surface rust. The Boss is a good filter but I have steered away from Purolator since they started having issues about 5-10 years ago. Don't rule out a Wix filter either, not many issues reported there.

Using the Ultra on our other two vehicles.

 

[JMJNet]

I'll do it.

As pointed out above, the oil consumption warranty was for 4 cylinder engine NOT 6 cylinder engine.
It is excessive, like 3-4 quarts before even 1000 miles with the oil.
I think most of the extended warranty is over, though, IIRC 10 years or less than 150K miles engine.

 

[blufeb95]

If you use a fram ultra cartridge you should easily be able to get two 5k OCIs out of it just keep the little drain valve tool and drain the cartridge housing and reinstall the plug and reuse the filter for another OCI. And really for most DIYers synthetic is actually cheaper than conventional since there's pretty much never any rebates on conventional but there usually is on synthetic and in the end you can get synthetic cheaper after rebate than conventional.

 

[Supersonic]

dealer serviced by the only previously owner...10k interval likely, I might think that contributes, this guy seem knowledgable, obviously I like what he says, bought my latest on his recommendations of the 3.3l being one of Toyota's best engines;

 

[CobraKaiFan]

dealer serviced by the only previously owner...10k interval likely, I might think that contributes, this guy seem knowledgable, obviously I like what he says, bought my latest on his recommendations of the 3.3l being one of Toyota's best engines;

Ok. I loved the video...I will likely watch it again for anything that I may have missed. Thanks for sharing. However, I have the service records from the previous owner. He was doing his oil changes every 5,000 miles.

 

[Shel_B]

Many people have had good results with Valvoline Premium Blue Restore. If your problem is with sticky rings (as described in the video) this oil may help. Do some research, start here:

https://volvo.cummins.com/file/1380.pdf

https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/e6/19/8e/24bb28eefcfd7e/US20170029734A1.pdf

This product may be worth trying if you have a low mileage engine that consumes oil and is not worn out. The economics of the product may not make sense to some, but oil consumption is annoying to a lot of drivers and any improvement is appreciated.

 

[RTexasF]

That engine is not known for oil consumption. I had two RAV4 V-6's until recently, now down to one. Change the PCV and switch to a different brand or a high mileage oil, regular or synthetic. In the past, vehicles I had using M1 did use/burn oil. That included a Honda with less than 35,000 miles. I went for a different brand and the consumption stopped. I don't recall which brand I went with though, that was almost 20 years ago.

The iridium spark plugs are good for 100,000 miles +/-. Accessing the bank on the firewall is the thing nightmares are made of.

 

[RTexasF]

Google "toyota rav4 tsb oil consumption" and see if you qualify for a repair. "Some 2006 – 2011 model year vehicles equipped with the 2AZ-FE engine may exhibit engine oil consumption. Problems can be fixed under warranty after test. The piston assembly has been changed to minimize oil consumption." Quote copied from http://www.toyotaproblems.com/excessive-oil-consumption/ Unfortunately, I think you're out of warranty.

Also Google "Rav4 oil consumption forums" to read what others are experiencing.

As mentioned previously this has absolutely NOTHING to do with the 3.5l V-6 engine. The oil guzzling 2.4l was in RAV4 from '06-'08 and replaced in '09 with the 2.5l.

 

[LeakySeals]

As mentioned you're comparing the oil consumption of two different Toyota V6 designs. However the V6 in the RAV4 is not known for excessive oil consumption. A quart every 4-5 k is reasonable for a Toyota engine imo. Every Toyota I've owned consumes oil V6 or 4cyl. People mention changing oils. Perhaps that will help. Switch to something a little more Stout that doesn't slip by the rings or valve seals. You're not solving what's really wrong though. Which you may never know without a tear down. I say live with it. Maybe after a while things will change. Mobil 1 does a really good job cleaning up engines. You could also try some fuel system cleaners from the top. Something that gets down into the pistons. But I think you're in pretty good shape and would not worry about it too much. Unless it's getting worse.

 

[RTexasF]

A side note here...if it hasn't been done several transmission drains & fills are in order at the mileage you have now. Their WS fluid is NOT lifetime in spite of claims. It takes about 4 quarts but have 5 on hand.

 

[blufeb95]

The iridium spark plugs are good for 100,000 miles +/-. Accessing the bank on the firewall is the thing nightmares are made of.

Ruthenium plugs may be a good investment on cars with transverse mounted V6 or V8 engines.

 

[RTexasF]

First I've heard of that spark plug.

 

[SatinSilver]

dealer serviced by the only previously owner...10k interval likely, I might think that contributes, this guy seem knowledgable, obviously I like what he says, bought my latest on his recommendations of the 3.3l being one of Toyota's best engines;

Yes I like him a lot as well. Seems to be spot on with everything I’ve heard from him.

 

[SatinSilver]

M1 EP High Mileage is excellent for oil consumption even in 0w20. Used it in ‘12 Camry that had tgmo 0w20 for 80k miles. Excellent uoa results but didn’t like consumption with that oil. Plus no more 1 second start up grind with M1 ep hm. The only other thing I did differently was using Gumout Regane HM fuel treatment during same time since WM was out of Techron.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Is there any water dripping from exhaust when engine is idling?
Also, I am not sure if the rubber hose on the VVT oil line is still rubber or has been replaced with the metal version?

JMJNet: Why a concern with water dripping?

 

[CobraKaiFan]

JMJNet: Why a concern with water dripping?

None that i've ever noticed....I did notice that on an old Nissan that I used to own that was high mileage....What does it mean?

 

[SilverFusion2010]

None that i've ever noticed....I did notice that on an old Nissan that I used to own that was high mileage....What does it mean?

Water coming out of the exhaust simply means your catalytic converter is doing its job. When you burn gasoline, you get CO2 and H2O as combustion products in an ideal environment. Since engines rarely if ever manage an ideal environment we have extra combustion products, CO and NOx being the primary offenders along with bits of fuel that didn't burn. Your catalytic converter's job is to convert these unwanted species into CO2 and H2O. The water condenses against cool parts of the exhaust system and eventually makes it out the end of the pipe. It's not unusual or bad. When you start driving down the road the increased exhaust flow will heat up the pipes and evaporate any liquid water and send it out of the system.

It's normal. Especially in cooler weather under extended idling where you have chilled pipes until you get going down the road.

 

[CobraKaiFan]

Water coming out of the exhaust simply means your catalytic converter is doing its job. When you burn gasoline, you get CO2 and H2O as combustion products in an ideal environment. Since engines rarely if ever manage an ideal environment we have extra combustion products, CO and NOx being the primary offenders along with bits of fuel that didn't burn. Your catalytic converter's job is to convert these unwanted species into CO2 and H2O. The water condenses against cool parts of the exhaust system and eventually makes it out the end of the pipe. It's not unusual or bad. When you start driving down the road the increased exhaust flow will heat up the pipes and evaporate any liquid water and send it out of the system.

It's normal. Especially in cooler weather under extended idling where you have chilled pipes until you get going down the road.

So glad I found this board. I can tell that there is quite a bit of knowledge and experience here. I honestly don't know where this rabbit hole might lead, but y'all are giving me some great insight. I hate buying vehicles. I'm one that would prefer to buy a quality used one and attempt to drive it 300k. Sometimes it works out and sometimes it doesn't. I've only had this Rav for two years, I just don't feel like going through the process again anytime soon.

 

[Supersonic]

You've done well finding one documenting doing oil changes every 5,000 miles, and being the 3.5 has a better chance at longevity at 6.3 quarts with filter, you'll likely get some recovery and have 300k++. I went back to the previous generation Sienna 3.3l V6, in hopes of having a 500k vehicle, but I do my own work and will not be subjecting the vehicle to winter weather as possible. I do have a leak that may at worst be the rear main seal, but at worst case I'll just keep adding and change it out if ever I have the transmission separated. Glad I found this board too, the learning new stuff never stops.

The video guy, Car Care Nut, and a fella I know have high opinions of the 3.3l V6, and even though it's got a timing belt and I thought I'd never go back to that, but when faced with used car 10k oil change histories and cost, I'm glad I reverted back, although like you, time will tell...I really wanted the 2011-12 Sienna with the 4 cylinder, but the Car Care Nut warns the 10k oil changes are really hard on that motor.

 

[sparky123]

The rear bank of spark plugs on our '07 Rav 4 V6 wasn't that hard to change. NOW.....the time and effort doing a transmission pan drop is something else. Ours was never done till I changed out the filter/strainer and cleaned the pan/magnets. The dealer refused to do this and I can see why. (They used a flush machine on previous service.) I can tell you the strainer was filthy. I used Idemitsu TSL-LV fluid which is better than the Toyota WS fluid, IMO.