Oil burning Crown Victoria
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Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
your pcv valve may need changing out, leaking air if that little ball bearing thingie is worn,,yes they will all rattle...for 5 bucks, put a new one on,,,worked on my buick...
http://www.dummies.com/home-garden/car-repair/fuel-system/how-to-check-and-clean-the-pcv-valve/
this info may help
Is this from the book called "PCV For Dummies"?
your pcv valve may need changing out, leaking air if that little ball bearing thingie is worn,,yes they will all rattle...for 5 bucks, put a new one on,,,worked on my buick...
http://www.dummies.com/home-garden/car-repair/fuel-system/how-to-check-and-clean-the-pcv-valve/
this info may help
Is this from the book called "PCV For Dummies"?
Goin hard, Castrol HM 10w40 is what I got
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I changed the PCV valve out a yr ago.
Maxlife 10w40, or a cheaper interim option could be an oil thickener like Lucas or Wynns or BG etc.
If its burning so quickly maybe just top it off with 15w40 for a while to bring the vis. up and see if notice a gradual reduction in smoke.
If its burning so quickly maybe just top it off with 15w40 for a while to bring the vis. up and see if notice a gradual reduction in smoke.
Originally Posted By: Olas
Maxlife 10w40, or a cheaper interim option could be an oil thickener like Lucas or Wynns or BG etc.
If its burning so quickly maybe just top it off with 15w40 for a while to bring the vis. up and see if notice a gradual reduction in smoke.
I wouldn't use any thickener, it's only 1 qt. every 2K, that's not that bad and thick oils in an OHC might cause more problems than they solve. And using HDEO and higher zinc 20W-50's may roast the cat!
If anything I'd consider using some sort of viable cleaning agent like Rislone Engine Treatment or even Mobil 1 HM 5W/10W-30/40...
Maxlife 10w40, or a cheaper interim option could be an oil thickener like Lucas or Wynns or BG etc.
If its burning so quickly maybe just top it off with 15w40 for a while to bring the vis. up and see if notice a gradual reduction in smoke.
I wouldn't use any thickener, it's only 1 qt. every 2K, that's not that bad and thick oils in an OHC might cause more problems than they solve. And using HDEO and higher zinc 20W-50's may roast the cat!
If anything I'd consider using some sort of viable cleaning agent like Rislone Engine Treatment or even Mobil 1 HM 5W/10W-30/40...
Valve seals. But if you're not going to change them, MaxLife 10W-40 would be a start
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I'd recommend a 10W30 high mileage oil with a Motorcraft filter.
This morning when I started the car it was 35 degrees outside. Fired up no rattling rods or valve train noise. Oil pres came up the same as 5w-20 did.
Update. Put about 250 miles on the car since the oil change. One thing I have noticed is I don't see any blue smoke anymore upon warm startups when before I would get a noticeable amount. Secondly I don't smell burning oil nearly as much as I did before with 5w-20. Now the dipstick says full but it's still way too early to notice how much oil the engine is consuming. Cold 30-40 degree start up's seem to be the same as before. Oil gauge shoots up to normal around the same time as before. Overall i'm pleased with the results so far. Ill check back after a few thousand miles to let you guys know about oil consumption.
Not sure I'd be revving it up after only a few minutes, especially when it's 30-40 degrees outside. I'd wait till it's fully warmed up.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
No sense in buying expensive oil for an oil burner. You need a cheap high viscosity oil. Don't even think about going thinner than High Mileage 10W-40 (which means regular 10W-40 is too thin).
Wouldn't that legally require a different labeled viscosity number?
No sense in buying expensive oil for an oil burner. You need a cheap high viscosity oil. Don't even think about going thinner than High Mileage 10W-40 (which means regular 10W-40 is too thin).
Wouldn't that legally require a different labeled viscosity number?
Merk is at it again. Without real evidence, I wouldn't buy that a HM 10w-40 is any thicker than a "regular" 10w-40, whatever that might be. There may be some wisdom to trying a HM oil, but it isn't necessarily about viscosity. If I wanted to go thicker to help with consumption or leaks, I'd hit a 15w-40 first if I wanted a cheaper conventional. If I was willing to go with a blend, I'd try a high mileage oil then.
You're too late Garak, the OP took my advice and the engine is now cured.
10w-40 is never a cure.
Originally Posted By: Garak
10w-40 is never a cure.
Sounds like a plan to me. What do you suggest? Tear down the engine and overhaul on a car that at best is worth $2000?? He has checked the basics.Since safety is not involved here, it's about economics.
10w-40 is never a cure.
Sounds like a plan to me. What do you suggest? Tear down the engine and overhaul on a car that at best is worth $2000?? He has checked the basics.Since safety is not involved here, it's about economics.
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Naw, it's about blue smoke and it's getting real lonely for us blue smokers. Can't hardly find one anymore
Need to start a support group. Blue Smokers Anonymous (BSA - which they did too)
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Need to start a support group. Blue Smokers Anonymous (BSA - which they did too)
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Garak said:10w-40 is never a cure.
Sure it is, but 15W-40 is better
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Originally Posted By: Lubener
Sounds like a plan to me. What do you suggest? Tear down the engine and overhaul on a car that at best is worth $2000?? He has checked the basics.Since safety is not involved here, it's about economics.
As already noted, yes, 15w-40 would be my preferred option in such a case.
Sounds like a plan to me. What do you suggest? Tear down the engine and overhaul on a car that at best is worth $2000?? He has checked the basics.Since safety is not involved here, it's about economics.
As already noted, yes, 15w-40 would be my preferred option in such a case.
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