Camry burns 4L oil every 7,000km

I’ll be doing the piston soak, but at the same time wondering if I can help clean all the built up deposits on the internals by adding B12 to the oil before dropping it - similar to an engine oil flush

Save if for the second soak. Get another engine flush instead. MOA / LM Proline
 
Over here in Aus, LM Proline is the same price as a can of B12. Wouldn’t the B12 work well as an engine flush?

It will drip down from the piston soak anyway. No need to add more.
It is not an engine flush, do what you want. The piston soak is the important part.

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I've done a Beryman's soak to three engines now. I recommend adding TCW3 two cycle oil as the post-soak cylinder lubricant rather than motor oil or fogging oil. It's designed to be burned and the smoke cloud goes away faster.
 
230,000km. I bought the car for $1200AU 10 years ago and I have a feeling it was heavily neglected.

I don’t see any visible smoke out of the exhaust, however you can smell it.

I don’t want to replace the rings, but I’ll check compression shortly.

I’ll be doing the piston soak, but at the same time wondering if I can help clean all the built up deposits on the internals by adding B12 to the oil before dropping it - similar to an engine oil flush
I don't think you want to add a solvent to the oil. I would guess oils that do better cleaning have more detergent and not solvent.

With any flush you run the risk of breaking off chunks of sludge that clog the oil return back to the oil pan.
 
Hi guys, this is the method I’m thinking for the piston soak:

- cold engine
- remove fuel pump fuse
- remove ignition fuse
- remove spark plugs
- pour berryman b12 into cylinders
- insert spark plugs back in
- let sit for as long as possible
- remove spark plugs
- with no spark or fuel, crank car to break up any remaining carbon
- air compress the cylinders to remove b12
- put fuel pump fuse back in
- put ignition fuse back in
- put spark plugs back in
- pour 200ml of berrymans b12 into oil
- run car idle for 5-10 minutes
- drain oil
- new oil filter
- new mineral 5W-30 oil
- run car for 1 week with spirited driving

I plan to do this process twice, then run Valvoline Restore and Protect. Would 5W-30 or 10W-40 Restore and protect be better to use?

I’m also thinking a 5W-30 mineral oil would be fine to use for the 1 week of spirited driving before draining? My thoughts are a lower viscosity oil would help freeing up the rings compared to higher viscosity?
If you don't crank with sparkplugs out to remove fluids in cylinder, you risk hydrolocking a cylinder and bending the connecting rod, or other damage.

Your list suggest you might try putting sparkplugs in and cranking without first removing fluids by cranking without spatkplugs. Bad idea.
 
I don't think you want to add a solvent to the oil. I would guess oils that do better cleaning have more detergent and not solvent.

With any flush you run the risk of breaking off chunks of sludge that clog the oil return back to the oil pan.
This is from Berryman:

Berryman B-12 CHEMTOOL FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER (part #0116) is extremely effective in the crankcase for the removal of gum, sludge, and other deposits IMMEDIATELY before an oil change. Because of the amount of cleaning that the product can do, it is not recommended to add it and then drive normally. This is due to the possibility of overloading the oil with deposits. This is not really a concern while idling and letting the oil temperature come up, but excessive deposits could be problematic once load is put on the engine. If you would like to try B-12 as an engine flush, simply pour into your cold crankcase approximately 1½-2 oz. of #0116 per quart of oil capacity. For instance, if your vehicle holds 6 quarts of oil, then you would use 9-12 oz. of or about two-thirds to three-quarters of one can. After you’ve added it to your cold oil, start the car and run it at idle 10-15 minutes until the oil is warmed up. Then change the spent oil and replace the oil filter.
 
This is from Berryman:

Berryman B-12 CHEMTOOL FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER (part #0116) is extremely effective in the crankcase for the removal of gum, sludge, and other deposits IMMEDIATELY before an oil change. Because of the amount of cleaning that the product can do, it is not recommended to add it and then drive normally. This is due to the possibility of overloading the oil with deposits. This is not really a concern while idling and letting the oil temperature come up, but excessive deposits could be problematic once load is put on the engine. If you would like to try B-12 as an engine flush, simply pour into your cold crankcase approximately 1½-2 oz. of #0116 per quart of oil capacity. For instance, if your vehicle holds 6 quarts of oil, then you would use 9-12 oz. of or about two-thirds to three-quarters of one can. After you’ve added it to your cold oil, start the car and run it at idle 10-15 minutes until the oil is warmed up. Then change the spent oil and replace the oil filter.

Did you even read thread I linked?
Basically nothing you put in the crankcase will help. It has been tried multiple times.

Use it as piston soak and let it drain down to the crankcase.

Might help prevent it after piston soak.
 
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Did you even read thread I linked?
Basically nothing you put in the crankcase will help. It has been tried multiple times.

Might help prevent it after piston soak.
I’m not thinking it will help with the piston rings, but I wanted to use it to flush the rest of the internals and sump of any deposits. I was going to just use a regular engine flush prior to dumping, but I thought B12 would be a lot more effective
 
This is from Berryman:

Berryman B-12 CHEMTOOL FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER (part #0116) is extremely effective in the crankcase for the removal of gum, sludge, and other deposits IMMEDIATELY before an oil change. Because of the amount of cleaning that the product can do, it is not recommended to add it and then drive normally. This is due to the possibility of overloading the oil with deposits. This is not really a concern while idling and letting the oil temperature come up, but excessive deposits could be problematic once load is put on the engine. If you would like to try B-12 as an engine flush, simply pour into your cold crankcase approximately 1½-2 oz. of #0116 per quart of oil capacity. For instance, if your vehicle holds 6 quarts of oil, then you would use 9-12 oz. of or about two-thirds to three-quarters of one can. After you’ve added it to your cold oil, start the car and run it at idle 10-15 minutes until the oil is warmed up. Then change the spent oil and replace the oil filter.
Don't believe everything you read.
 
I’m not thinking it will help with the piston rings, but I wanted to use it to flush the rest of the internals and sump of any deposits. I was going to just use a regular engine flush prior to dumping, but I thought B12 would be a lot more effective

Clean internals and deposits is what Valvoline R&P will do later (y)
 
If you don't crank with sparkplugs out to remove fluids in cylinder, you risk hydrolocking a cylinder and bending the connecting rod, or other damage.

Your list suggest you might try putting sparkplugs in and cranking without first removing fluids by cranking without spatkplugs. Bad idea.
- pour berryman b12 into cylinders
- insert spark plugs back in
- let sit for as long as possible
- remove spark plugs
- with no spark or fuel, crank car to break up any remaining carbon
- air compress the cylinders to remove b12
- put fuel pump fuse back in
- put ignition fuse back in
- put spark plugs back in

Isn’t this what you recommend?
 
Fair call!

So skip adding an engine oil flush altogether after the soaks before dumping oil?

Something like that, do what you feel necessary. We haven't seen your engine.
Piston soak and good oil from now is whats important.

Piston soak twice probably better then engine flush.
You will have B12 in the crankcase regardless so start it up and let it idle if you want.
Don't forget to oil the cylinders before startup.
 
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