Oil breaking in a 454

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In the past with similar builds I have used joe gibbs break in 5w30, 15w40 hdeo cheapest 10w30 I could find really cant say I saw any difference?
 
My choice would be PYB 10W-30, conventional oil with a good amount of moly.
I would run this out to 10,000 miles.
1st oil change at 500 miles, 2nd at 2500 miles, then 5,000, then 10,000.

I used the same interval for my stock hemi, but with PYB 5W-20.
 
I have asked the cam supplier and gets different answer from different techs one says Only break in oil another says any oil I like with added break in additive another say any oil I like is ok?
 
In the past with similar builds I have used joe gibbs break in 5w30, 15w40 hdeo cheapest 10w30 I could find really cant say I saw any difference?
If you’ve had good experience with something in the past why not keep using it? What all of a sudden makes this one different?
 
I have asked the cam supplier and gets different answer from different techs one says Only break in oil another says any oil I like with added break in additive another say any oil I like is ok?
Any quality break in oil will keep you safe and have no need to worry.
 
I would use a break-in oil, no reason not to. Lucas, John Deere, and others offer reasonably priced options. Ask your dyno guy to run it through a break-in cycle before any WOT pulls.
 
Extra ZDDP is important for flat tappet cams but cannot hurt for break in.
I imagine the dino runs will complete the ring seating.
You should have no problem. Be sure and post your numbers, especially torque curve.
500 pound feet or better!
 
If you’ve had good experience with something in the past why not keep using it? What all of a sudden makes this one different?
I have used so many different combination,over the last 15 years I have built probably 10-12 hyd roller BB 454-496’s so dont know If it was luck or If it doesnt really matter If you use break in oil or just regular dino?
Thought asking wont hurt?
 
Extra ZDDP is important for flat tappet cams but cannot hurt for break in.
I imagine the dino runs will complete the ring seating.
You should have no problem. Be sure and post your numbers, especially torque curve.
500 pound feet or better!
Similar engine I built 15 years ago but 489 cui similar cam, same heads and Comp ratio was.
640 hp@6200 and 630 ft from 4000-4800 with 1 qt to much oil in the pan(my misstake😤)
Used 15w40 dino hdeo in that build breaking it in and on the dyno.
 
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I would use a break-in oil, no reason not to. Lucas, John Deere, and others offer reasonably priced options. Ask your dyno guy to run it through a break-in cycle before any WOT pulls.
Ok may go with Lucas. Yes he usually warms it up and Do some 4000 rpm pulls before we start beating on it.
 
Has a fresh Chevy BB 454 I just built. Should be close to 600 hp.
Hyd roller billet core 160/420 closed/open spring pressure.
Moly piston rings.

Unsure what oil I should use during break in?
break in oil Like Edelbrock 1070, Joe gibbs etc. Regular dino 10w30? should I use break in additive like Comp cams, redline etc?
id go with the joe gibbs break in oil in a 50 grade. the builders here swear by it.
then vr1 20w50 or rotella 20w50 afterward
 
id go with the joe gibbs break in oil in a 50 grade. the builders here swear by it.
then vr1 20w50 or rotella 20w50 afterward
Why that heavy wt? It has not excessive clearances and lifter mfg says no heavier than 40wt?
 
Just texted the dyno guy, of all oils he had some german ravenol break in oil since he do some work on bmw’s and Use Ravenol in them. Never heard of it? But maybe ok?
 
Just texted the dyno guy, of all oils he had some german ravenol break in oil since he do some work on bmw’s and Use Ravenol in them. Never heard of it? But maybe ok?

I'd definitely use Ravenol over Lucas, the former doesn't produce snake oil products.
 
Why that heavy wt? It has not excessive clearances and lifter mfg says no heavier than 40wt?
manufacturer? who would that be? the engine builder? because unless its a gm crate engine they didnt mfr anything.

im just telling you what the local engine builders use on BB chevy here. maybe you should call up your builder
 
manufacturer? who would that be? the engine builder? because unless its a gm crate engine they didnt mfr anything.

im just telling you what the local engine builders use on BB chevy here. maybe you should call up your builder


From the original post it sounds like he is the builder.
 
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