California is notorious for terrible fuel. I think a little zinc would be good for the engine. The engine was designed for 1985 fuels. A little precaution couldn't hurt.
Oil advice: 1985 Toyota Camry
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Originally Posted By: CapitalTruck
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Yeah, 10w30 or 10W-40 in summer months. I'd run an HM..
,000
Why run an oil with seal swellers if it isn't using oil?
Because for the 8,000th time they don't have "swellers"...
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Yeah, 10w30 or 10W-40 in summer months. I'd run an HM..
,000
Why run an oil with seal swellers if it isn't using oil?
Because for the 8,000th time they don't have "swellers"...
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: CapitalTruck
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Yeah, 10w30 or 10W-40 in summer months. I'd run an HM..
Why run an oil with seal swellers if it isn't using oil?
all oils have seal swellers .
Seal "conditioners" actually, HM just has more...
Originally Posted By: CapitalTruck
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Yeah, 10w30 or 10W-40 in summer months. I'd run an HM..
Why run an oil with seal swellers if it isn't using oil?
all oils have seal swellers .
Seal "conditioners" actually, HM just has more...
Biggest thing I would be concerned about is the timing belt (if it hasn't been changed recently). My brother's '87 Tercel 1.5 3E, with only 27K on it, had huge dry rot cracks in it, that was the first thing I replaced when he got it, it looked like it could have broken at any time. Just about any gasoline engine oil would be WORLDS better than the SF swill they had back in '85-I would probably run 10W30 (or 10W40 or 20W50 in 100F+ desert conditions) in it, whatever brand you can get a good deal on. They don't look like that here, most of them hit the crusher long ago.
What would fuel quality have to do with any need for added zinc?
Are you also trying to say that fuel quality in Cali and elsewhere was somehow better thirty years ago?
If you want to come here and make posts, have some actual data to back those posts up.
Are you also trying to say that fuel quality in Cali and elsewhere was somehow better thirty years ago?
If you want to come here and make posts, have some actual data to back those posts up.
The guy doesn't have any facts; why I don't read any of his b.s. He spews
Nice car! If you change the coolant, i'd worry about using any of the newer coolants with 1985 head gaskets. I'd try to find some plain old green coolant.
I would not think twice about running 5w30 or 10w30.
I would not think twice about running 5w30 or 10w30.
This car and your climate were made for 10w30. I'd find any good dino and enjoy. Pennzoil Conventional or whatever's on sale. For the nostalgia, actually. Remember when we used to just buy cases of 10w30 and didn't have a care in the world?
That car is sharp where you live and would win trophies where I do.
That car is sharp where you live and would win trophies where I do.
Cheap fuel eats at the cam, lifters over time those metal tidbits make their way to your oil. California has what they call a summer fuel and a winter fuel, I am not sure exactly what's in the fuel. All I am saying is why not protect your internals with a little zinc. What could it hurt? I don't appreciate being attacked. You want facts, Google the facts. I don't have time to prepare a full fledged court ready argument. If you don't like my advice use someone else's. Thank you
Wow, nice find! For oil I'd be inclined to use a 10W40 conventional although a 10W30 would probably suffice. High Mileage oils are a consideration but the low valve spring pressure, which I'm guessing is under a 100 ft/lbs open, doesn't warrant the extra zinc. Can't hurt though and you do get extra seal conditioners. Whether that's a bucket of sh*t from China is anybody's guess.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
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Pre-CAFE for sure, sorry bad joke.
HDEO gets my vote, considering your climate, 15w40 or 10w30.
harvey
HDEO gets my vote, considering your climate, 15w40 or 10w30.
harvey
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Biggest thing I would be concerned about is the timing belt (if it hasn't been changed recently). My brother's '87 Tercel 1.5 3E, with only 27K on it, had huge dry rot cracks in it, that was the first thing I replaced when he got it, it looked like it could have broken at any time. Just about any gasoline engine oil would be WORLDS better than the SF swill they had back in '85-I would probably run 10W30 (or 10W40 or 20W50 in 100F+ desert conditions) in it, whatever brand you can get a good deal on. They don't look like that here, most of them hit the crusher long ago.
The timing belt for sure. In fact, I wouldn't worry much about the oil weight but 5w30 is the thinnest I'd go. Really, I'd be much more focused on the cooling system on this making sure hoses and the radiator looked good!
Biggest thing I would be concerned about is the timing belt (if it hasn't been changed recently). My brother's '87 Tercel 1.5 3E, with only 27K on it, had huge dry rot cracks in it, that was the first thing I replaced when he got it, it looked like it could have broken at any time. Just about any gasoline engine oil would be WORLDS better than the SF swill they had back in '85-I would probably run 10W30 (or 10W40 or 20W50 in 100F+ desert conditions) in it, whatever brand you can get a good deal on. They don't look like that here, most of them hit the crusher long ago.
The timing belt for sure. In fact, I wouldn't worry much about the oil weight but 5w30 is the thinnest I'd go. Really, I'd be much more focused on the cooling system on this making sure hoses and the radiator looked good!
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10W30 Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage and a Toyota oem oil filter.
This is the kind of car that ran for ages, just using whatever the local quick lube had in stock.
Back then, my father would have used Castrol GTX 10w40, and that would still be a good oil to use today.
Back then, my father would have used Castrol GTX 10w40, and that would still be a good oil to use today.
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