Yes, meteorite things all the time. Meteors don't. A meteor is not an object.It has happened. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peekskill_meteorite
Yes, meteorite things all the time. Meteors don't. A meteor is not an object.It has happened. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peekskill_meteorite
Cost me about $800 to change the timing belt and replace a tensioner on my Honda Accord V6 (at 100,000 Km) at the Honda dealership. But that was at least 5 years ago.Does anyone have any first hand information on what a shop, (or dealership), would approximately charge to preemptively change one out?
Did the manual call for changing it sooner if the vehicle was operated in extremely cold weather?It had a few really cold starts so I changed it on the "severe cold" mileage recommendation. But probably not necessary. That belt looked really good.
Over on a Toyota Tundra forum I'm a member of, I've read a few stories from folks who neglected their Tundra timing belts. Those need service around year 8 or 80,000 miles. Those members who had their break essentially destroyed their engines. There are a handful of folks. Like everything on the internet, I take it at face value that they aren't fabricating their experiences and they were looking for advice. So, yes, they do break. Given the cost of repairs it's smart to keep them serviced timely.Is anyone aware of any genuine OEM Toyota timing belt that ever failed, whether it was the result of high mileage or old age? I have heard stories of aftermarket timing belts that broke, but not OEM. Of course, I don't know everything that's going on out there, so that's why I'm asking.
Meant to say meteorites hit things all the time. Had to chase one of the cats down because he took off with my key pouch.Yes, meteorite things all the time. Meteors don't. A meteor is not an object.
Yes. As I recall the recommendation was for replacement at 160,000 km (100,000 miles) for normal use but 100,000 km (62,500) for cold weather use. I assume the issue would be the cold starts as the engine would be warm when running for any length of time irrespective of the outside temperature.Did the manual call for changing it sooner if the vehicle was operated in extremely cold weather?
It has happened. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peekskill_meteorite
A meteor is a phenomenon, a mere streak of light caused by plasma due to the high speed of a meteorite in the atmosphere. Meteoroids may make it to the ground. Meteorids that make it to the ground are called meteorites.
The belts do not break on their own, they break because something else failed.
Water pump seized, belt tensioner failed, idler pulley failed...
The belts have cords inside of them like a tire.
They are made of a synthetic rubber that is designed for high heat and contamination. The engine bay is a very very not friendly place for fragile things.
Do I have proof of them not failing on their own? Nope. Nothing other than experience.
Why replace the TB at all, Just replace what makes the belt fail?
Most, If not all manufacturers warn against contaminating timing belts with coolant & petroleum.
I bought a few 1980s Caprices and a 1983 Delta 88 for $200-400. I got a few years out of each. This was between 2003 and 2010 or so. Then I went wild and paid $1500 for an 83 Caprice in really nice shape and drove that as my winter beater for over 10 years and sold it for $1500.She bought that Malibu for $400 before the meteor strike? You just don't get used car deals like that any more, that car looks clean (except for the meteor damage) And it has the coolest NY plates ever! Second only to the ASSMAN NY plates Kramer got.
They often last way longer than expected but they also sometimes fail before the manufacturers recommended change interval. I think if nothing else fails that affects it, the timing belt itself is most likely to make it way longer than the recommended interval, but it's a huge risk to try it.For the same reason everyone replaces everything in there when they replace the timing belt, because you're already there.
Why go through all the work of tearing the front of the engine off and not replace everything?
A properly cared for water pump will last 200k or more. But they still replace it every 90k with the timing belt.
Why use coolant rated for 150k when you're going to change the water pump with the timing belt at 90k?
Why did my Mitsubishi Montero with the 3.5L V6 say California cars timing belt was good for 120k but everyone else was 60k?
SKF say's timing belts are good for 150-200,000 miles.
https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/mt/en/blog/skf-mechanic/timing-belt-vs-timing-chain
"If the timing belt is contaminated with dirt or oil, clean it and reinstall"
https://gmb.net/blog/timing-belt-squeak-check-this/
https://www.ntn-snr.com/sites/default/files/2017-03/defaillances_possibles_des_courroies_en.pdf
5 year unlimited mile guarantee, I don't know about you, but I drive a lot. 50k a year.
https://www.continental-engineparts.com/eu/en-GB/Aftermarket/Products/Belts/Timing-Belts
Better pulley and water pump designs are allowing manufactures to extend timing belt change intervals to over 100k
https://gmb.net/blog/stretching-timing-belt-replacement/
The majority of car owners do not service their cars on time, if timing belts were are delicate as the sales people told you, there would be broken down cars everywhere.
https://www.ratchetandwrench.com/si...ng-majority-of-car-owners-put-off-maintenance
I'm not saying don't change your timing belt, what I am saying is, it will last longer than you think, the belt is not as fragile as you have been told and car manufactures do not actually expect you to replace it every 60k.
No. It is Toyota. After car ends up on junkyard, people from Toyota come and take off timing belt and put on new vehicles.Is anyone aware of any genuine OEM Toyota timing belt that ever failed, whether it was the result of high mileage or old age? I have heard stories of aftermarket timing belts that broke, but not OEM. Of course, I don't know everything that's going on out there, so that's why I'm asking.
Dealership about $1600 to $1800Does anyone have any first hand information on what a shop, (or dealership), would approximately charge to preemptively change one out?