Odd Dremel question for brake rotors

[TheReal_DW]

I have an early model 2012 Kia sportage sx fwd 2.0T. The rear brakes were later revised with a notch cut out of the trailing arm bolt to allow clearance for the shock. The earlier models do not have this notch. The trailing arm must be moved out of the way on this model to fully remove the caliper.

Here’s my original plan: I cut the bolt across the line drawn on the bolt in the first photo to allow proper clearance. If I don’t do this, I will have to remove a lot of the suspension just for a brake job. I will use a dremel, some motor oil and a tungsten carbide bit.

Would there be any easier way to do this or any advice?? I was hoping there is some secret mechanic method or something.

 

[ctechbob]

If that's all you have, then have at it.

No need to go out and get anything special for just that, unless you have a higher power tool handy. A die grinder would make short work of it.

 

[VWRand]

A Dremel EZ Lock Cutoff Wheel might be faster than a bit

 

[TheReal_DW]

A Dremel EZ Lock Cutoff Wheel might be faster than a bit

Recently found a video explaining how to do the rear brake job on this thing, I can either cut this bolt across bit, or undo the shock and trailing arm. Then the bolt for the caliper is accessible. If it doesn’t rain tomorrow it will be done!

 

[DCDG]

You positive this can't be performed with the correct assortment of tools or is that what you're trying to avoid purchasing the correct sockets/extension and so forth.

 

[D60]

If you just need to remove that little bit of the flange, I wouldn't hesitate....but I modify metal regularly. A good belt sander would make quick work of it. Keep a water pot nearby to keep it cool if you're concerned about changing the temper.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

There is probably some special socket from Snap-On for this. Or if you're lucky, a cheap knockoff version

 

[BC1]

I am not grasping this. You will remove a bolt and grind it some. Why can't you leave that bolt out, do the brake job, then put the bolt back in?

 

[DCDG]

pry par universal socket extensions there's a way if it went together it'll come apart.

 

[TheReal_DW]

You positive this can't be performed with the correct assortment of tools or is that what you're trying to avoid purchasing the correct sockets/extension and so forth.

I’ve found a video of a Kia optima with identical rear brake design, they unbolted the shock as well as the trailing arm from the knuckle: On YouTube many commenters expressed similar frustrations. Perhaps there is a correct tool, however my goal at this point is to avoid having to remove the shock during my next brake job.

 

[TheReal_DW]

I am not grasping this. You will remove a bolt and grind it some. Why can't you leave that bolt out, do the brake job, then put the bolt back in?

Are you saying Maybe I could just flip the bolt the other way when putting it back together so that it doesn’t come in contact with the shock? Would there be any downsides?

 

[DCDG]

I’ve found a video of a Kia optima with identical rear brake design, they unbolted the shock as well as the trailing arm from the knuckle: On YouTube many commenters expressed similar frustrations. Perhaps there is a correct tool, however my goal at this point is to avoid having to remove the shock during my next brake job.

what's the difference between the SX and SL? this guy didn't remove any suspension parts

 

[TheReal_DW]

what's the difference between the SX and SL? this guy didn't remove any suspension parts

The sx usually has a stronger engine and I believe the brakes are stronger, also there’s a difference between AWD and fwd brakes. For my suspension, one of the caliper bolts is hidden behind the trailing arm and I have a turbo sx early gen. All of their caliper bolts are fully visible and not behind anything

Here’s a better photo:

 

[DCDG]

The sx usually has a stronger engine and I believe the brakes are stronger, also there’s a difference between AWD and fwd brakes. For my suspension, one of the caliper bolts is hidden behind the trailing arm and I have a turbo sx early gen. All of their caliper bolts are fully visible and not behind anything

Here’s a better photo:

View attachment 339150

can you get on the bolt with a wrench.. back it out completely it will stay captive but you should be able to wiggle it free.

try an offset wrench

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...omotive-car-2025-mazda-3?q=14mm+offset+wrench

 

[TheReal_DW]

can you get on the bolt with a wrench.. back it out completely it will stay captive but you should be able to wiggle it free.

try an offset wrench

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...omotive-car-2025-mazda-3?q=14mm+offset+wrench

We tried that just now, it doesn’t work with that kit. It doesn’t have enough room

 

[DCDG]

We tried that just now, it doesn’t work with that kit. It doesn’t have enough room

Last attempt if not yet tried universal/swivel socket with an extension and come from the front of the vehicle

 

[GSCJR]

This reminds of the rear brakes on a 2016 Santa Fe Sport FWD, I once did. IIRC, there's not enough clearance to remove the lower bolt for the caliper bracket due to the suspension being in the way. Remove both pads and the upper bracket bolt first. Free the rotor from the hub, then loosen the problem bolt (lower). Next, instead of trying to back out the bolt pull the bracket and rotor towards you simultaneously while loosening the bolt. Good luck!

 

[TheReal_DW]

Last attempt if not yet tried universal/swivel socket with an extension and come from the front of the vehicle

Got it done

 

[DCDG]

Got it done

View attachment 339195

How did you go about removing the lower bolt?

 

[TheReal_DW]

How did you go about removing the lower bolt?

I removed the lower shock bolt moved it out of the way so that the trailing arm bolt had clearance then removed the trailing arm bolt then used an extended 14 mm and ratcheted it off.