OCI for a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder V6 with PP?

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A couple cylinders is fine as long as they are the same before/after for comparison.

And pictures through the oil cap before/after.

Looking forward to it!

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I'd ask my cousin right now, but she is sleeping because she has to work in the morning. I'm actually at her house shootin' the breeze with my buddy (who is actually dating her, lol). That's why I keep giving updates after walking outside and checking things out. I just went out a minute ago and I can confirm that I will be able to get a compression test on one whole side of the engine (3 cylinders).

I'm looking forward to this as well. I'll ask her to be sure in the morning, but like I said, I doubt she will mind.
 
If that is the VG33E then it's not characteristic of that engine. My dad's Quest has mainly received dino oil changes at 3k mile intervals and it looks clean through the valve cover. It has over 100k miles on it and runs fine.
 
Originally Posted By: MoparDak05
I'd ask my cousin right now, but she is sleeping because she has to work in the morning. I'm actually at her house shootin' the breeze with my buddy (who is actually dating her, lol). That's why I keep giving updates after walking outside and checking things out. I just went out a minute ago and I can confirm that I will be able to get a compression test on one whole side of the engine (3 cylinders).

I'm looking forward to this as well. I'll ask her to be sure in the morning, but like I said, I doubt she will mind.
Cool
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Make sure your PCV or Breather system is in proper working order before starting this regiment.

Given that there is that much sludge in the engine a filter change might be a very good idea every 1-2K miles.
 
I would recommend running a HDEO, such as Pennzoil LongLife Gold 10W-30, with the Auto-Rx. It's a Group II+ base stock, which would work well. Best of luck.
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Good news! My cousin said she is fine with it. In fact, she even said she is excited! So, as soon as I get a chance, I will do a compression test and post the results of that.

That is one thing I would like by the way, recommendations for oil/filter to use with the Auto RX. Thank you Falcon_LS.

For the actual test I told my cousin that I would buy the oil/filter for her, so I'd like to keep the oil/filter price cheap. Unfortunately, right now I don't have a lot of money to throw around. But, in the name of BITOG, I will do this test!
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Originally Posted By: MoparDak05
Good news! My cousin said she is fine with it. In fact, she even said she is excited! So, as soon as I get a chance, I will do a compression test and post the results of that.

That is one thing I would like by the way, recommendations for oil/filter to use with the Auto RX. Thank you Falcon_LS.

For the actual test I told my cousin that I would buy the oil/filter for her, so I'd like to keep the oil/filter price cheap. Unfortunately, right now I don't have a lot of money to throw around. But, in the name of BITOG, I will do this test!
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Well, according to the ARX site, dino is best. If you have a Walmart near you, Supertech oil and filter would be a cheap option. Or a oil/filter deal at Autozone/Checker/AAP, etc. I also like the idea of using an HDEO, such as Delvac or Rotella(also cheap at WM). An HDEO may aid in cleaning as well.

I'm anxious to see the compression results, now we just need to do something similar with MMO and some other products :) Good luck man, hope it works out for you
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What do you fellas think about using Formula Shell 5w-30? 5w-30 is what it states in the owner's manual and I already have 7 quarts of that in my stash.
 
Any dino will do for the ARX run. I would use Penzoil Yellow Bottle with the ARX run and rinse cycle. PYB is cheap and has a good amount of detergents and the ARX will help accelerate the process.

A repeat run of the ARX may be needed, we will have to see after the first run.

Once everything is clean follow up with a couple 5Ks run of Valvoline Maxlife to get the seals conditioned. The cleaning will likely dislodge [censored] built up around the seals.

Changing the filter more frequently as recommended above is cheap insurance, although time consuming.

This what I would've done if I knew about BITOG a few years back.

You should be good to go after that with PP at 7500miles OCI. These are good engines and can take a beating. Mine consumed only maybe 1/8 quart every 5K after all the sludge was cleaned out.

Good luck.
 
I wouldn't experiment with extended oil changes. The crankcase capacity is only 3.3 quarts in that 6 cylinder-- the same as my 4 cylinder Sentra.
5,000 and no more and use synthetic only.
 
Originally Posted By: Nayov
I wouldn't experiment with extended oil changes. The crankcase capacity is only 3.3 quarts in that 6 cylinder-- the same as my 4 cylinder Sentra.
5,000 and no more and use synthetic only.


I think it's 4 qts.
 
our 03 VG33ER is only 3.75 WITH the filter. We have been using on sale synthetics(mostly PP 5w30) with Bosch filters at 4k mile change intervals since we bought it with 30k miles. It now has 76000 miles, and its looks really clean inside the fill hole.
 
Originally Posted By: MoparDak05
Good news! My cousin said she is fine with it. In fact, she even said she is excited! So, as soon as I get a chance, I will do a compression test and post the results of that.

That is one thing I would like by the way, recommendations for oil/filter to use with the Auto RX. Thank you Falcon_LS.

For the actual test I told my cousin that I would buy the oil/filter for her, so I'd like to keep the oil/filter price cheap. Unfortunately, right now I don't have a lot of money to throw around. But, in the name of BITOG, I will do this test!
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PM me your Address and I will ship you the ARX! Great!
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Originally Posted By: hooligan24
our 03 VG33ER is only 3.75 WITH the filter. We have been using on sale synthetics(mostly PP 5w30) with Bosch filters at 4k mile change intervals since we bought it with 30k miles. It now has 76000 miles, and its looks really clean inside the fill hole.


It's funny the supercharged one has less oil capacity.
 
I performed the compression test today on the passenger side cylinders, the numbers are as follows:

Front (Toward Radiator): 150 PSI
Middle: 165 PSI
Rear: 172 PSI
 
Originally Posted By: MoparDak05
I performed the compression test today on the passenger side cylinders, the numbers are as follows:

Front (Toward Radiator): 150 PSI
Middle: 165 PSI
Rear: 172 PSI


Do you by chance know the factory compression specs?
 
I gotta say this.Bet Auto RX or PP won't clean squat.Waste of time and money.I've taken many a motor apart with that stuff(sludge) in them,Old fashioned brown carb cleaner in the 50 gallon drum was hard pressed to clean that stuff.I have pulled valve covers and oil pan.Used carb and parts cleaner in a pressurized dispenser.Scrapped and cleaned for two hours using a big catch pan on Nissan V6s.Would send valve covers,oil pan and oil pickup screen/tube to the machine shop to be soaked and cleaned.My advise is to use a decent oil and change it every 2500 to 3000 miles.Then leave well enough alone if it runs good.Theres not a 'mechanic'in a can that gonna clean that stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike
Originally Posted By: MoparDak05
I performed the compression test today on the passenger side cylinders, the numbers are as follows:

Front (Toward Radiator): 150 PSI
Middle: 165 PSI
Rear: 172 PSI


Do you by chance know the factory compression specs?


No I don't, sorry. I was wondering that myself.
 
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