No more oil changes until it explodes...

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I guess I will ask the question here that nobody has, Why? No oil manufacture is recommending 75,000 mile changes. The longest is Amsoil at 30,000 miles, but for your conditions with a great deal of idling, they cut it to 15,000 miles. Why not keep the engine in good condition and sell that crate motor when you retire?

I think most people here are interested in how long they can extend their change intervals with no ill effects. Running an oil 75,000 miles does not do anything toward this cause. I have an idea, how about you run, Mobil 1 for 20,000 miles, no sampling and a filter change at 10,000 miles, drop it and replace with another synthetic, and do a UOA on the oil. Repeat this every 20,000 miles with a different synthetic. This would provide better information than the group than doing what amounts to abusing your vehicle.

Personally, I vote for Mobil 1 0w-40, and oil designed for extended changes in European cars. Second would be the Sweet Gummy bear stuff.
 
If I was running this type of test, I'd run the Amsoil Series 3000, 5w-30, which I believe is their most durable formulation in terms of maintaining viscosity and retaining TBN and detergency. You can stick with Motorcraft oil filters and change them every 5000 miles, mainly because that's easy to remember. I'd suggest doing an oil analysis every 10,000 miles - prior to changing oil filters - to monitor the condition of the oil ....

I think it might be possible to go 50,000+ miles with this amount of makeup oil and still have an engine that's in good condition....The oil will probably thicken up to a 5w-40 or 10w-40 over this period of time and it may even creap into the SAE 50wt range towards the latter part of the test.

Tooslick
www.lubedealer.com/Dixie_Synthetics
www.lubedealer.com/Dixie_Synthetics
 
quote:

Originally posted by phordguy:
Personally what I would like to see is probably different that what makes most fiscal sense. I'd recommend a bypass filter of some kind if you want the engine to last for than 200k, if not keep going with the cheapo $2.77 motorcraft 820s or better Mobil 1 filter and Mobil 1 15w-40/50 weight oil. I like mobil 1 since it seems to be the most commonly available retail synthetic and because of the good TBN's from past submitted OUA's by BITOG members. If not M1 I would like to see the Delvac1 5w-40 used since they say it is made for heavier duty applications and the 40 weight would be nice. Because of what I've read here on the BITOG forums, I like thicker oil in severe duty especially hotter temp severe duty. So what if its a single mpg less efficient, you don't pay for gas, correct?

I'd want the original engine to last longer and keep the new 4.6 on the stand as a spare tire and possible sell it or use it in another car if the current one gets trashed in the line of duty. I would venture to guess you could go to 300k and still have a good engine if you do maintenance like you describe with a bypass filter and swap the element every 2000 miles and top off with another quart and a couple oz's of lube control, and a three oz's of fp every other tank of gas. The extra oil that the bypass adds to the sump capacity would help along with the addition of possibly an oil cooler on it as well. See if you can't get a sponsor for the bypass filter, your cruiser would be a great reference for a vendor trying to sell one!

Save the extra engine for a rainy day or a 2nd car in case the unforseen happens. Its a great conversation piece and would be better in your son's mustang.
smile.gif
My bet is that the engine will make it as long as you don't loose a head gasket, a weak injector or poke a hole in the pan or something unforseen like that. Long live the 4.6 !!!


word!
 
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