No more oil changes until it explodes...
- Thread starter AstroVic
- Start date
- Status
Patman
Staff member
I think that a cheap oil is the way to go here, otherwise we could all be waiting forever for this test to end!
AstroVic,
Do you have a full version of police Crown Victoria or a modified civilian? What is the difference between police and regular models?
I assume it has ATF, PS, and engine oil cooler. Probably modified rear handles and doors as well. Does it have a different engine or a engine software. How about transmission and differential - are they standard? I was thinking about buying a police version of a car (probably Impala) in future. Do you need a special permit to buy such car as a civilian? Do you know if police car are more reliable in a long term or have better quality?
Regards,
Do you have a full version of police Crown Victoria or a modified civilian? What is the difference between police and regular models?
I assume it has ATF, PS, and engine oil cooler. Probably modified rear handles and doors as well. Does it have a different engine or a engine software. How about transmission and differential - are they standard? I was thinking about buying a police version of a car (probably Impala) in future. Do you need a special permit to buy such car as a civilian? Do you know if police car are more reliable in a long term or have better quality?
Regards,
Seems as though we are saying that oil changes are not needed. Just change the filter and top it off every 3000 miles and the car will run for now on?
Ok, let's say he changes the filter every 3,000 miles and refills with 1/2qt.quote:
Originally posted by KW:
Seems as though we are saying that oil changes are not needed. Just change the filter and top it off every 3000 miles and the car will run for now on?
Engine oil capacity (with filter) is five quarts, and he'll have added five new quarts in 30,000 miles.
With oil consumption and leakage figured into, I see no reason why using a good "long-life" synthetic wouldn't still result in very high mileage WITHOUT ever pulling the drain plug again.
Cool!
I actually found that picture out on the web since I didn't have one available on my PC, but I believe it was taken in Lebanon.
Okay, let me see if I can tackle these one at a time:
1 - Yes, it's a Police Interceptor (as Ford calls them), which will show the P71 VIN code on 92+ Crown Victorias
2 - Not much of a difference between police and civilian models. We get dual exhaust, but so do some of the upper trim package civilian models. We also get a little bit different programming, which raises the shift points and eliminates the top speed governor. There are a few other small details here and there.
3 - Coolers are included for tranny, oil, etc., yes.
4 - My rear doors work just like any car's rear doors work. I'd have to physically disable them to make them inoperable (which is what most agencies do), but I don't have a cage in my car so I have no need to do that.
5 - Tranny and differential are the same as civilian versions.
6 - No you don't need a special permit to buy one. Just look on Ebay or go to an auction and you'll be able to buy one like you would any other car. Search "P71" on Ebay and you'll get about 100 hits.
7 - Buying a used police car can be a steal if you really know what you're looking at in a car and you know the car upside down. I personally have a good deal of experience with Crown Vics and I've been very lucky with the ones I've bought. They've been absolutely trouble free. Unfortunately, if you're not good at sizing up a car, you might get one that's been trashed really bad. In that case, bring a gearhead friend with you to take a look at the car or post a link to it on one of these forums and ask everyone's opinion on what you're looking at.
Great experiment and some great ideas. Most every oil mentioned for this test has some merit. If it was simply a zero-maintenance plan, I'd use D1/SUV or GC. Other synths are interesting, AMSoil or others who claim special properties. The most appropriate experiment in this Ford would be Motorcraft 15w-40, 5w-30 or 5w-20. I would consider an Auto-Rx treatment first or at least a quick interval of the chosen oil before begining the experiment. Good Luck.
BTW-
As far as filters, my Mann oem Audi filter says 2yr/30,000km on it. Can you use one of those?
I saw Aspen Police had a Saab 9000 Patrol car a long time ago.
BTW-
As far as filters, my Mann oem Audi filter says 2yr/30,000km on it. Can you use one of those?
I saw Aspen Police had a Saab 9000 Patrol car a long time ago.
I still don't like the idea of using a Police car for this test.
Anybody here drive a Taxi and wanna do it? LOL
Anybody here drive a Taxi and wanna do it? LOL
In a fleet car like this if you change the filter regularly and top off, I wouldn't see a problem.
It would still get better maintenance than 90 percent of the cars on the road today anyway.
I seen a year old dodge intrepid already blowing blue smoke the other day. Thing probably never had an oil or filter change and it probably has 30k on it.
It would still get better maintenance than 90 percent of the cars on the road today anyway.
I seen a year old dodge intrepid already blowing blue smoke the other day. Thing probably never had an oil or filter change and it probably has 30k on it.
I agree with the cheapest SL oil you can find. but I would use Valvoline All climate 10w-30 variety because of the texas heat and to see how that "weak additive Pack" does and supertech filters for cost reasons. Let's see how good the dinos do with extended drains! even if the UOA show the engine is dying, he's got a brand new backup engine. If he uses syn with long intervals, that engine could last 300k. that backup engine could be sitting for 5 years or more. This way he could dispel or validate the valvoline and dino oil sucks mantra on this board
I'll put $100 on the line that this car will still be running at 200K if Supertech oil was used with a Supertech filter being replaced every 4K miles. IMO it's a waste of time to use any synthetic as the car will last to 200K easily, it's not that much of a challenge. Let's make this interesting and use the cheapest oil/filter combo available to prove how we are all extremists and just about any oil will do!
Astrovic, I agree that a off the wall boutique oil is the way to go!! Redline and Synergyn would be my first to choices. If you were going to test an Exxon/Mobile product I would consider Delvac-1. Motul would also be a good choice. What viscosity are you planning to use?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Due to your service duty and the OCI (never) ..I vote for Delvac 1 SHC (marine) ..it has a TBN of 16 so it should go a further distance with the limited additive replenishment that you intend. Your climate certainly justifies the weight.
I personally haven't found this oil ..yet. AVLubes hasn't gotten back to me about it ..so it might be on the expensive side (as though D1 isn't expensive already).
If I had to choose an alternative ...and wanted the "best bang for the buck", I'd go with Rotella -T 5w-40 synth.
Oh ...and I think you're looking at a couple of years or more before you are installing your new mill.
I personally haven't found this oil ..yet. AVLubes hasn't gotten back to me about it ..so it might be on the expensive side (as though D1 isn't expensive already).
If I had to choose an alternative ...and wanted the "best bang for the buck", I'd go with Rotella -T 5w-40 synth.
Oh ...and I think you're looking at a couple of years or more before you are installing your new mill.
I think I have to wait couple of years to get results on broken engine. But I will read UOA...........
If you would consider using a dino oil, considering the usage and climate, I'd respectfully suggest anyone of the 15w40 HDEO's.
Otherwise for a synthetic, I'd say Mobil 1 0w/5w-40.
Otherwise for a synthetic, I'd say Mobil 1 0w/5w-40.
Red Line 10W-30, change the FL820S every 5,000 miles and top-off.
PS- why'd you get a 2V 4.6L SOHC crate engine?
why not a forged set-up? It's one heck of a lot stronger!
PSS anything more than a 30 weight oil may cause problems w/ ford modular engines. 40 and 50 weight oils will cause MPG to go off the deep end.
[ August 02, 2004, 09:44 PM: Message edited by: mf150 ]
PS- why'd you get a 2V 4.6L SOHC crate engine?
why not a forged set-up? It's one heck of a lot stronger!
PSS anything more than a 30 weight oil may cause problems w/ ford modular engines. 40 and 50 weight oils will cause MPG to go off the deep end.
[ August 02, 2004, 09:44 PM: Message edited by: mf150 ]
- Status
Similar threads
- Question
