No more oil changes until it explodes...

[AstroVic]

quote:

---

Originally posted by kickster:
use AMSOIL change your oil filter every 10K and top it off as needed. Changing oil filter at 2K is a joke. Your car will last forever.

---

Thanks for the response, but that's the point, isn't it? To make the car last forever?

I'm not actively TRYING to cause a perfectly good engine to self-destruct. I'm just seeing how long it'll last and whether or not the synthetic stuff is as indestructible as they claim.

This

is not what I want to happen to my car. Hahahhahaa.....

[ July 30, 2004, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: AstroVic ]

 

[benjamming]

Since I doubt anyone else will suggest it (and it's not my money), how about Neo. Now there's an oil that is definitely not API licensed, a boutique oil, and doesn't have any UOAs on this board that I could find.

BTW, are you going to be doing any UOAs?

 

[AstroVic]

quote:

---

BTW, are you going to be doing any UOAs?

---

I was thinking about doing them at 10k or 20k intervals, but I honestly don't know what the procedure is for obtaining the sample if you're not draining the oil pan.

Anyone know how that works?

To be fair, I'm not sure I'll want to see what the UOAs have to say! Hahahhaa....

Even if they suggested that I drop the oil, I won't do it. My mission is 200k on the clock and 75k without draining the oil pan....at the very least!

 

[chucky2]

One one hand, I'd like to see Amsoil run to too if they can live up to the 25,000/1 year claims...if you do put 30,000 miles on a year, then it wouldn't be the typical 10,000-12,000 miles on oil but the year mark has been hit, so the oil needs to be changed type of test. This would be a great test to see if Amsoil can indeed go 25k with what I think they speck 7,500 mile filter changes.

On the other hand, Delvac-1 (Mobil-1 SUV & Truck) 5W-40 or Delvac 15W-40 or Mobil-1 10W-30 or Mobil-1 0W-40 or Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 (or 10W-30 if you can find it) or German Castrol 0W-30 would all be great tests.

Perhaps you could add a new air filter (making sure it is sealed very well) and run the oils all 30,000 miles with 7,500 mile filter changes...much like 3 Mad Ponchos is doing with his Camaro...this way we could see how the Ford 4.6L V-8 wears. I'd chip in for at least one of two oil analysis...since we know that all the oils above should go 7,500 miles at least, you could change the filter, take a sample, top up to full, and keep running to 30,000/1 year - this way excess samples wouldn't lower the oil level so fresh oil would needed to be added.

What do you think? I know it's not the same test, but it might produce more benefit...of course, with the already aged engine, how many oils you'll be able to test may be limited...

Just some thoughts...

Chuck

 

[W.T.McGlynn]

For What It's Worth:

Back in 94 I worked with a Mobil
Oil Engineer who use a Late Model
T-Bird on the job.He used M-1 and
only changed it once a year,approx.
every 20K.Never had a break-down.
I would never have the guts to do that,but he did........

 

[benjamming]

AMSOIL says 12,500 miles/6 months filter changes. I like that idea of AMSOIL filters with Neo 5W30 or 10W30 (you wouldn't have as much oil to top off $).

 

[LCD]

I was thinking I would like to see you add one oz Lube Control to your oil every 1000 miles and see how long the engine and oil last, but then again with that new engine sitting there waiting you may not want to.

It may never get it's chance!

 

[AstroVic]

quote:

---

Originally posted by lcd:
I was thinking I would like to see you add one oz Lube Control to your oil every 1000 miles and see how long the engine and oil last...

---

Never heard of the stuff. I'd be interested in considering that idea if I knew more about it. I'm assuming it's some sort of additive package?

Anyone else like that idea?

I don't know if it's in the spirit of the test, though, because then we'd never really know if it was the OIL doing its job or the LUBE CONTROL stuff making up for degrading oil.

 

[AstroVic]

Chucky2, I like your ideas. Maybe I should perform that test on my 1996 CVPI which has 147k on the clock. It's a police package Crown Vic, but it doesn't get used for patrol. It's my personal car that I drive mostly back and forth to school (i.e. highway use).

Two different tests at once would be interesting to conduct. It would always give us something to look forward to!

 

[Drew99GT]

So you had to buy the vehicle, but then you get an allowance for using your own vehicle? Even if you can write the sucker off, I'd still think you'd never break even on that deal, but you must

As far as oil, Either Mobil 1 10w-30, or more preferably, 5w-40 Delvac/Truck SUV formula. I think you'll easily go past 200K if something else doesn't take the engine out like a water pump or head gasket while your doing 130 mph chasing some nuttier then squirrel turds idiot.

 

[rg144]

Nix the idea of Lube Control, that would be cheating, though I use the stuff. M1 SUV, Motorcraft filter but at 10K interval ... you will wonder why Jiffy Lube is still in business.

 

[Chris142]

I think it's a good idea but with the wrong car. Citizens depend on a running police car, sometimes lives depend on it.

"What if" it blew up and you were unable to get to a call in time and someone died?

If it blows up with normal mainetnance then so be it. But if it was not maintained and it blew up when it was needed I don't think I could sleep at night.

 

[AstroVic]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
So you had to buy the vehicle, but then you get an allowance for using your own vehicle? Even if you can write the sucker off, I'd still think you'd never break even on that deal, but you must

---

Yeah, that's pretty much how it works. We get a set car allowance and we pay all expenses related to the vehicle (except for equipment - lights, siren, radio, computer, etc.). If we spend less than the car allowance pays, we can pocket the difference. If we spend more than it pays, then it pretty much hits you in the regular paycheck.

I paid cash for my car and I maintain the living daylights out of it, so I come out ahead about $500 per month. Of course, at some point I'd hypothetically have to replace the car, which means I *should* be saving that $500 each month toward the next vehicle purchase. Only thing is, in five years I don't plan to be in law enforcement anymore, so all I have to do is make my 2000 CVPI last until then and I should be good to go.

If it breaks, I'll fix it. Only way I'm screwed is if it gets wrecked...but then I guess I could just buy another one for dirt cheap.

 

[Patman]

This is such a cool idea, you rock!

If you want to take samples of the oil without draining it, get a sample pump, or another idea would be to install a fumoto drain valve. Then when you draw a sample, just open the valve and catch the first quart into an empty oil bottle, then take the sample after that, then pour the oil from the bottle back into the engine. This is so you don't get your sample from the first dribblings out of the pan. I did such a sample myself on my car this morning, only I use the Fram Sure Drain plug on mine.

This is definitely an exciting test you're doing, be sure to keep us informed on it every step of the way!

 

[AstroVic]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Chris142:
I think it's a good idea but with the wrong car. Citizens depend on a running police car, sometimes lives depend on it.

"What if" it blew up and you were unable to get to a call in time and someone died?

If it blows up with normal mainetnance then so be it. But if it was not maintained and it blew up when it was needed I don't think I could sleep at night.

---

You raise a good ethical argument, and I can't argue against your logic. The only thing I can offer is that my experiment does not mean that I'm abusing or failing to maintain the car. Furthermore, I think an oil-related failure would start to show itself before a total catastrophic failure emerged.

On top of that, my car has NEVER broken down in almost 125k of police service. I'd like to think it has something to do with my maintenance procedures.

 

[AstroVic]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Patman:
If you want to take samples of the oil without draining it, get a sample pump, or another idea would be to install a fumoto drain valve. Then when you draw a sample, just open the valve and catch the first quart into an empty oil bottle, then take the sample after that, then pour the oil from the bottle back into the engine.

---

Doh! Makes perfect sense, thank you! I'll probably do some UOAs, just because I know you guys want to see them. Personally, I don't have much experience with them so the relative nature of the numbers don't hold much weight with me.

 

[AstroVic]

By the way, where did all of the AMSOIL dealers go? Hehehehehe....

Just teasing!

 

[LCD]

AstroVic, Lube Control is an oil additive we sell along with Fuel Power for your fuel www.lubecontrol.com. They are both discussed often on the additive forum. Just click here and run a search http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=5

Also readup on the UOA forum

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001757

I was somewhat joking about adding the LC as it would not show how well the oil works. It would be interesting to have 2 going one with LC and one without. No doubt the one with LC would long outlast the engine running just oil.

 

[Steve S]

Astrovic ,what if the car blows up when you need it most.

 

[phordguy]

Personally what I would like to see is probably different that what makes most fiscal sense. I'd recommend a bypass filter of some kind if you want the engine to last for than 200k, if not keep going with the cheapo $2.77 motorcraft 820s or better Mobil 1 filter and Mobil 1 15w-40/50 weight oil. I like mobil 1 since it seems to be the most commonly available retail synthetic and because of the good TBN's from past submitted OUA's by BITOG members. If not M1 I would like to see the Delvac1 5w-40 used since they say it is made for heavier duty applications and the 40 weight would be nice. Because of what I've read here on the BITOG forums, I like thicker oil in severe duty especially hotter temp severe duty. So what if its a single mpg less efficient, you don't pay for gas, correct?

I'd want the original engine to last longer and keep the new 4.6 on the stand as a spare tire and possible sell it or use it in another car if the current one gets trashed in the line of duty. I would venture to guess you could go to 300k and still have a good engine if you do maintenance like you describe with a bypass filter and swap the element every 2000 miles and top off with another quart and a couple oz's of lube control, and a three oz's of fp every other tank of gas. The extra oil that the bypass adds to the sump capacity would help along with the addition of possibly an oil cooler on it as well. See if you can't get a sponsor for the bypass filter, your cruiser would be a great reference for a vendor trying to sell one!

Save the extra engine for a rainy day or a 2nd car in case the unforseen happens. Its a great conversation piece and would be better in your son's mustang.

My bet is that the engine will make it as long as you don't loose a head gasket, a weak injector or poke a hole in the pan or something unforseen like that. Long live the 4.6 !!!