Nissan Frontier Rear Differential

That is a shame given the level of care you gave it. At least you know it didn't fail due to poor quality lubrication

My 2022 Frontier uses an M226 rear w/ 3.69 ratio. They all use the M226 now I believe, where the Pro4x includes some type of locker.
 
Well, the shop decided to order all of the parts and the boss's dad will do the rebuild because the axle shop has become a PITA for some reason. We don't know if they are under new management, overscheduled, or what, but they're not being communicative nor do they follow up.

I was glad to hear my shop will do the rebuild because I have more trust in her dad doing the job than some axle shop who is not being cooperative.

I have also asked we replace the wheel bearings and seals after a complete flushing of the axle tube and pumpkin.
 
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You got me motivated @MolaKule

I changed the rear differential gear oil on my 2022 Frontier today. What came out looked black and ugly at 44K miles. Very easy job thankfully. The newer ones use 3/8" square ratchet drive pipe plugs for the drain and fill plugs. The drain plug has a magnet in it as well. The usual black goo on the magnet along with some very fine metallic shavings. Out came ~2 quarts. In went about 2 and 1/3 quarts of Supertech synthetic 75w90 before it starting running out the fill plug.

Next will be the front diff and T-case. Nissan recommends genuine Nissan D3M ATF/transfer case oil for the newer powertrain, even though the T-case is largely unchanged since ~2005. You can mail order it for around $15/qt. I'm pretty sure I know which universal ATF I'll be using in it.
 
You got me motivated @MolaKule

I changed the rear differential gear oil on my 2022 Frontier today. What came out looked black and ugly at 44K miles. Very easy job thankfully. The newer ones use 3/8" square ratchet drive pipe plugs for the drain and fill plugs. The drain plug has a magnet in it as well. The usual black goo on the magnet along with some very fine metallic shavings. Out came ~2 quarts. In went about 2 and 1/3 quarts of Supertech synthetic 75w90 before it starting running out the fill plug.

Next will be the front diff and T-case. Nissan recommends genuine Nissan D3M ATF/transfer case oil for the newer powertrain, even though the T-case is largely unchanged since ~2005. You can mail order it for around $15/qt. I'm pretty sure I know which universal ATF I'll be using in it.
I have been testing HPL Blue CC in my Transfer Case for the past year and so far the engagement/disengagements have been flawless in cold weather.

My diffy has the 10mm internal wrenching drain plug with magnet and the 12mm internal wrenching fill plug.
 
I have been testing HPL Blue CC in my Transfer Case for the past year and so far the engagement/disengagements have been flawless in cold weather.
This actually makes sense. The CST@100C is 7.2 - close to the original spec.

I have posted this before, but Nissan specs Matic D in the transfer case, which has a viscosity pretty much Dex3 level. I tried Maxlife and my cases went from shifting perfect to very hard. Note I have 2 identical cases, one in my Xterra and one in the Fronty, or I may not have equated it to the fluid. Maxlife is too thin. I switched back to Transmax with viscosity close to above, only because I could get it local, and my problems ended - both cases. The Dex6 officiendo's tell me this is not possible, but I believe my lying eyes.

Next change I will go to something better - like the HPL or Amsoil.
 
A little off topic, I was looking a Titans a few years ago and the early Super 44 rear diff had complaints about running hot- what was the reason for this? Dana 44 based design that's been around forever- had one in the FRONT of an old Blaser.
 
Well, the shop decided to order all of the parts and the boss's dad will do the rebuild because the axle shop has become a PITA for some reason. We don't know if they are under new management, overscheduled, or what, but they're not being communicative nor do they follow up.

I was glad to hear my shop will do the rebuild because I have more trust in her dad doing the job than some axle shop who is not being cooperative.

I have also asked we replace the wheel bearings and seals after a complete flushing of the axle tube and pumpkin.
Update: My mechanic shop has found a complete new axle assembly from a Nissan dealer. The cost for the new axle assembly is only $300.00 more than bringing in all of the components and rebuilding the pumpkin's internals in-house and flushing the axle tubes. This includes labor, btw. I think this is a win-win.
 
Update: My mechanic shop has found a complete new axle assembly from a Nissan dealer. The cost for the new axle assembly is only $300.00 more than bringing in all of the components and rebuilding the pumpkin's internals in-house and flushing the axle tubes. This includes labor, btw. I think this is a win-win.
At the risk of insulting your shop, make sure they're replacing u-bolts if removing the entire axle.
 
Well, my 2012 Nissan Frontier's rear differential has to be rebuilt. It is a torque sensing diffy similar to the Eaton TrueTrac.

I change gear lube each year before hunting season and this time a chunk of metal came out that looked like a gear tooth and indeed it was.

I had my mechanic put it on a lift and remove the cover and indeed teeth were missing from the drive pinion and the torsen gearing.

The axle assembly will be removed and sent to an axle shop that specializes in a rebuild.

No noise or cornering issues were ever noticed.
What gear oil were you using? I have a truetrac in my 93 c1500 and just curious. I have just used what Eaton recommends and has been good for 50k since it was installed. Love the locker and has been great especially in the snow.
 
What gear oil were you using? I have a truetrac in my 93 c1500 and just curious. I have just used what Eaton recommends and has been good for 50k since it was installed. Love the locker and has been great especially in the snow.
I have been using a synthetic 75W110 formulation.
 
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I have been using a synthetic 75W110 formulation.
I was curious, I just use mineral 80w90 in mine, as that was what Eaton states. I have ran synthetic in most other vehicles. Can you run synthetic in these or does it damage anything? Don't see why it would but not a rear manufacturer.
 
A little off topic, I was looking a Titans a few years ago and the early Super 44 rear diff had complaints about running hot- what was the reason for this? Dana 44 based design that's been around forever- had one in the FRONT of an old Blaser.
I remember that, although it was probably a good 10+ years ago IIRC. Wasn't the "fix" a larger aluminum finned diff cover?
 
I was curious, I just use mineral 80w90 in mine, as that was what Eaton states. I have ran synthetic in most other vehicles. Can you run synthetic in these or does it damage anything? Don't see why it would but not a rear manufacturer.
Quote from OM:

"API GL-5 synthetic gear oil, viscosity SAE75W-90," so I run the 75W110 which has the wider viscosity range .
 
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A little off topic, I was looking a Titans a few years ago and the early Super 44 rear diff had complaints about running hot- what was the reason for this? Dana 44 based design that's been around forever- had one in the FRONT of an old Blaser.

Arguably undersized for the application. When people towed at or near the stated towing capacity, the diff could get very hot, and self-destruct. Their later use of a finned Al diff cover, helped dissipate some of the heat.

In comparison GM had their 8.5, which held more oil, and didn't spec as high of preload on the bearings. So it had less tendency to get too hot.
 
Arguably undersized for the application. When people towed at or near the stated towing capacity, the diff could get very hot, and self-destruct. Their later use of a finned Al diff cover, helped dissipate some of the heat.

In comparison GM had their 8.5, which held more oil, and didn't spec as high of preload on the bearings. So it had less tendency to get too hot.
I totally agree the pumpkin and gearing is undersized and low lube capacity is a factor. I have never towed with it but the previous owner may have done so.

The terrain the previous owner covered I am sure contributed to the overstressing of the gearing.
 
Update: new axle is in. It came with new rotors, pads, and all hoses and electrical connections. Looks good. Not only do I have excellent braking, I now have a real parking brake as the original parking brake was almost ineffectual.

It also came with break-in oil. We'll run it for 500 miles and then change it.

Total parts and labor just over $4,200. It took three hours to install.

Old U-bolts went back in because they were in excellent shape. We have ordered new bolts for a later install.

I also had them install my GL-5 gear lube in the front differential while it was up on the lift.
 
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@MolaKule Do you recall how the factory oil looked in the front diff of your Frontier? I drained/filled the front on my 2022 Frontier yesterday @ 44200 miles and the factory gear oil looked golden and clear like new oil, but the magnetic drain plug had quite a bit of paste and fines on it. Only about 3/4 of a quart drained out. Over a quart went back in. I again used Supertech 75w90. The newer Fronters use 10mm hex sockets for the plugs w/ aluminum crush washers. They were in TIGHT.

FFDiffplug.webp

FFDiffplug1.webp
 
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