Newbie - Request of wisdom and input

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Hi new to the forum - there is so much information!

I have a couple questions and observations.

I just purchased two new left-over vehicles a 2015 Ford Expedition 4WD and 2015 Ford Escape AWD.

The Expedition has Ford's 3.5L twin turbo all-aluminum V6 and the Escape has Ford's 2.0L turbo all-aluminum I4 both are direct injected. Considering that I spent +90k in new cars this year and I am looking at long term ownership, I want to ensure that my oil choices provide the best protection possible.

Ford's factory fill is Motorcraft SAE 5w30 Premium Synthetic Blend for both. I have been a long time user of Royal Purple. In the Expedition I changed the oil at 1,000 miles to RP's API 5w30 and noticed the engine "noise" increased. In the Escape I changed the oil at 1,000 miles to Pennzoil Platinum Ultra 5w30 and noticed the engine "seemed" a little quieter. I am thinking of trying Pennzoil Platinum Ultra in the Expedition next time - I plan on 5,000 mile OCI.

I have been using RP HPS 5w-20 in my kids 2011 Mazda2's both cars have over 110,000 miles and run great, fairly smooth - for an I4, low noise, never had a problem - the engines seem to do very well with the RP HPS - 7,500 OCI.

On all of my cars I use K&N oil filters (just like the fact that I can use a 1" socket wrench to remove the filters), and I have changed all the oil plugs to Gold Plug, LLC magnetic drain plugs (I always do find it interesting what residue is on the magnets).

On my two new acquisitions any wisdom and input on the best oil(s)?

The Expedition is in New Jersey - see's mixed high/city driving - some towing around 5,000lbs (Max is 9,200lbs), in the winter some idling to warm up the car (remote starter).

The Escape is in FL - is a seasonal car. It will get laid up for about 6 months at a time. When driven mostly city with some short range towing up to it's maximum load of 3,500lbs.

Any thoughts about using RP HPS in these cars after the warranty is up?

Thank you in advance for any advise.
 
Pennzoil Ultra has everything you need in an oil I wouldn't look any further.

K&N oil filters are nice with the nut but they are only about 85% efficient at 20 microns and made in Korea. I'd recommend a Fram Ultra which is 99.9% @20 microns and 80 %@5 microns

Also I recommend getting a filter minder and running oem air filters un disturbed as long as allowed by warranty
 
Originally Posted By: josephp732
...

Any thoughts about using RP HPS in these cars after the warranty is up?

Thank you in advance for any advice.



To answer your question, there should be no problems using RP for a one year/5000 mile interval. Definitely stick with a 30 weight in the ecoboost engines.

If you prefer RP to other oils, fantastic; but there are plenty of oils that would work well for you at less cost.


....and
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to BITOG.
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Yeah, that's a lot of coin into cars in one year. So I can see your point. I agree with the Pennz Ultra. Although I'm sure the motors in both would last to 200,000 miles on MotorCraft blend It's actually pretty nice oil.

I listen to what motors say when cold started, idling, revving, etc. If they get noisy, that means things are in contact. It might be lubricated contact, but why go there ... Quiet motors are happy motors. I'd go with whatever viscosity range is in the manual and premium filters (WIX - Napa Gold same, Baldwin, Fram Ultra, etc.). Your drain plugs are good
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Not a fan of RP oils. Expensive and I've had some cam/lifter issues on a motor (race) that was run on RP. Not sure if it was the oil of some other issue, but I never saw that with other oils. Same cam same lifters, no scaring ...

You'll get a million answers here. Some flks will be along to tout Mobil1 soon enough
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For factory OCIs, hard to beat MC synthetic blend. I would avoid the MC filters, their recent track record isn't too good. I actually like the CQ Blues, they're like a Mobil 1 filter for 1/2-1/3 the price, or the Ultra for a little bit more.
 
I would check out some uoas on this site for both engines. I think Castrol Magnatec had some good upas in the 3.5 twin turbo. I would use a Wix or Fram Ultra filter
 
Thank you for the responses so far. I will definitely look at the Fram Ultra oil filters. The Escape is easy to use a regular filter on - the Expedition is a bit of a pain and the nut on the K&N makes it a lot easier to get it off. These small displacement forced induction engines are pretty new to me.

The Expedition replaced a 2003 Suburban with a big ole V8 - that went +200k miles (RP HPS and K&N filters) and was running strong but the body was rusting out. I know the twin turbo V6 will be working a lot harder to create it's torque and HP then the V8 especially when towing. I keep visualizing the turbo's cooking the oil!

I fully agree with 901Memphis on the OEM air filters.

Sorry guys I have enough dependent's and cars!
 
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The K&N filters are still good if you really want to use them, the biggest issues are that when they stopped making them at champion labs in the USA they discreetly reduced the efficiency from 95% to 85% @20 microns and didn't reduce the cost which is reducing the quality without passing the savings to the customer. 85% @20 microns is acceptable but not top of the mark at all.

For instance I'll list some common efficiency we know.

Fram Ultra = 99.9% @20 microns
FRAM Tough Guard = 99% @20 microns
Amsoil EAO = 98.7% @20 microns
Wix/Napa Gold = 95% @20 microns
Fram extra guard = 95% @20 microns

Holding capacity isn't a big issue in a new clean engine but the Fram Ultras win here going up to 32 grams for the XG8A sized cans. Bosch Distance plus also has high capacity around 30 grams I believe although they aren't transparent about efficiency at 20 microns which is the current industry standard to test at.

For capacity an engine may produce around 1 gram for every 1k miles for reference. Exact figures can vary but this is a good ballpark
 
I have a eco-boost in my 13 F-150 and it lives on 10w-30 non-syn diesel oil in the winter time and 15w40 non-syn diesel oil in the summer time. My wife's Edge has 170,000 miles on it and has lived on diesel oil its whole life also. We haven't even had to put spark plugs in it yet. I don't believe all the marketing hype on synthetic oils. My engines out last the body's now so why waste the money on something that will not gain me anything. Our Ag tractors run for over 10,000 hours of hard work on dino oil with now problems. Its your decision.
 
Thank you for the welcome!!

I buy my oil filters six at a time. I just ordered K&N filters a few months ago. The HP-2011's for the Expedition are all made in Mexico. The HP-1002's for the Escape are split 3 are US made 3 are made in Mexico. The HP-1008 for the Mazda2's are all made in Korea.

The HP-1002's look very different and are even different sizes. The US made HP-1002 filter is slightly taller, has six perimeter holes, you can see all the way to the top of the can and right after the threads you can see a spring. The Mexican made HP-1002 filters have eight perimeter holes, what looks to be a raised metal cap (valve) at the top of the can and no spring by the threads. The Korean made filters look very similar to the Mexican made ones but seem to be made out of thicker metal for the can.
 
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Originally Posted By: josephp732
Thank you for the welcome!!

I buy my oil filters six at a time. I just ordered K&N filters a few months ago. The HP-2011's for the Expedition are all made in Mexico. The HP-1002's for the Escape are split 3 are US made 3 are made in Mexico. The HP-1008 for the Mazda2's are all made in Korea.

The HP-1002's look very different and are even different sizes. The US made HP-1002 filter is slightly taller, has six perimeter holes, you can see all the way to the top of the can and right after the threads you can see a spring. The Mexican made HP-1002 filters have eight perimeter holes, what looks to be a raised metal cap (valve) at the top of the can and no spring by the threads. The Korean made filters look very similar to the Mexican made ones but seem to be made out of thicker metal for the can.





Yes you are correct that forgot that they outsourced different part numbers to various countries Mexico and Korea are the top two depending on part number. They used to All be made by Champion labs very similar to the Mobil 1 filter but not any longer. By the looks of it they had to cut some corners on the media to save money.

I wouldn't avoid them if they were closer to the $6 range, they still have the heavy tapping plate and good burst strength.
 
Originally Posted By: josephp732
Surfing I found the following comparison to the US made versions. Needless to say the recommendation is not to use the non-US made versions....: http://www.boefabrication.com/index.php?/boe/article/kn-hp-2009-filter-analysis



That's a good link it shows how they added more media in the new filter but the efficiency went down. They need more media because the cheaper media doesn't have the same holding capacity. The old media was synthetic blended/resin impregnated and it appears they went to all cellulose for obvious cost reasons


They also got rid of the nice center tube for the cheaper design
 
Originally Posted By: ChevyBadger
Originally Posted By: rickmeseke
Quote:
+90k in new cars


Can you adopt me?
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+1 LOL.
Welcome!
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is all you need. Great stuff. Not that RP is bad, but no need to spend extra money on that stuff. Also right now Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Mobil are all running rebates on their oil. You can find out more on the 'Rebates and Promotions thread'.
I would do away with the K&N oil filters. They're not that good. So many better choices out there and for less money as well. Check out the fram ultra, NAPA Gold or Platinum.
 
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Thank you all. I looks like I will standardize on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Fram Ultra filters for the two Fords and stay with the RP HPS but switch to Fram Ultra filters for the Mazda2's.

I will use the two US made K&N HP-1002's and sell the imported K&N's on ebay for what ever I can get. Looks like the Fram Ultra filters run about $7.50 from rockauto.com.
 
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