How Soon to Use Royal Purple?

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First, in nearly all situations there will be a better oil you could be using. The question is, do you really need a better oil? Do your driving conditions warrant switching to a better oil? In what way is your current oil falling short? This discussion becomes moot if you are using Royal Purple just to feel better because you are using Royal Purple. I believe it's a good idea to do an early oil change one time on a new or freshly rebuilt engine, but it's not truly necessary. How early depends on the recommended service interval. I'd say around 30% of the normal interval for the first (short) oil change, and then follow the full/normal intervals thereafter. Many vehicles come with synthetic oil from the factory and they never have an issue wearing in the engine parts. At a basic level, synthetic oils do not lubricate better than conventional. The difference is in flow/pumpability, high/low temperature performance, resistance to shear and frequently synthetics will have better detergent additives. This all coming from an experienced shadetree mechanic, so take it for whatever it may be worth... around $0.02 LOL
 
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Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Ah, the weekly BASH RP thread, complete with ignorant and some totally false accusations. But hey, don't let any factual truth stand in the the way of another RP hate fest. Carry on!
Well you have this factual information, correct? Even mentions your favorite brand by name: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Aug-17-ENG.pdf
Finally downloaded this oft quoted Blackstone piece. With people bashing RP because it's too expensive and RP because it's not botique enough, it's helpful to remember that all oil that meets spec is pretty much the same. That makes me feel good because I still have a handful of Valvoline Daily Protection for $10 oil change coupons.
 
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To the OP. Welcome to the forum! When breaking in an engine it's important to use an oil with elevated zinc to protect critical engine parts. Royal purple makes a fine break in oil, but their synthetics need better base oils. The cold flow tests preform like conventional. I run conventional in everything I have and change it out at 4k or so intervals. Mostly because I like changing oil, and get bored easily. Hope that engine gives you many trouble free miles.
 
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Originally Posted by Jetsfan421
To the OP. Welcome to the forum! When breaking in an engine it's important to use an oil with elevated zinc to protect critical engine parts. Royal purple makes a fine break in oil, but their synthetics need better base oils. The cold flow tests preform like conventional. I run conventional in everything I have and change it out at 4k or so intervals. Mostly because I like changing oil, and get bored easily. Hope that engine gives you many trouble free miles.
They don't meet the winter ratings they state on the label?
 
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I'm neither here nor there on RP. The add packs and overall composition of their synthetic lines really don't appear to differ from the rest of the synthetics out there. It should work equally well, but it tends to be at a higher price around here.
 
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I did a freezer test one time with RP 20W50 and M1 15W50. The RP was literally solid while the M1 was as fluid as if it were room temperature. Needless to say my gf freaked when she opened the freezer and saw motor oil in there haha!
 
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Originally Posted by ChevJames
I had to have the 1.6L Ecoboost engine in my 2015 Ford Escape replaced. As some of you may know, a lot of these engines had to be replaced due to cracked engine blocks. Mine was covered under the powertrain warranty. I'm sure that the new engine was filled with Ford's synthetic blend of oil. I had been running Mobil 1 in the original engine--and the engine failure was certainly not due to a problem with the oil! But my research has indicated that Royal Purple may be a better motor oil than Mobil 1. However, my engine now has fewer than 300 miles on it, and Royal Purple advises to wait until your engine has at least 2,000 miles on it before using their oil. This is, supposedly, so that valves and piston rings can wear and seat properly. Now, when getting a new car, I normally change the oil between 500 and 1,000 miles, to get any metal particles out that could have resulted from the break-in process. So, what would happen if I put in Royal Purple at around 1,000 miles? Would that prevent the engine parts from "wearing in" optimally? Thanks in advance for your answers.
So the valves can seat properly!? cry Thanks for the laughs, this thread is hilarious to say the least
 
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Originally Posted by RazorsEdge
So the valves can seat properly!? cry Thanks for the laughs, this thread is hilarious to say the least
Well he got three or so pages out of the post. You try not to suspect everyone, ya know?
 
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Originally Posted by Bailes1992
I think I'd speak for the majority here and say M1 is a far superior oil to Royal Purple.
I'd speak for my car - M1 is noisy as a tractor and the engine becomes sluggish the moment I pour in any of the M1 flavors (tried vanilla, EP, 5w20,5w30) Same engine purrs like a kitten on RP I know it's only me and my application, yet M1 is not a silver bullet
 
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Originally Posted by SlavaB
Originally Posted by Bailes1992
I think I'd speak for the majority here and say M1 is a far superior oil to Royal Purple.
I'd speak for my car - M1 is noisy as a tractor and the engine becomes sluggish the moment I pour in any of the M1 flavors (tried vanilla, EP, 5w20,5w30) Same engine purrs like a kitten on RP I know it's only me and my application, yet M1 is not a silver bullet
Sluggish with M1 the moment you pour it in ????🤔 It's not running when you pour it in So tell me how that works !!!
 
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Originally Posted by SlavaB
Originally Posted by Bailes1992
I think I'd speak for the majority here and say M1 is a far superior oil to Royal Purple.
I'd speak for my car - M1 is noisy as a tractor and the engine becomes sluggish the moment I pour in any of the M1 flavors (tried vanilla, EP, 5w20,5w30) Same engine purrs like a kitten on RP I know it's only me and my application, yet M1 is not a silver bullet
This statement sounds mighty peculiar. Are you filling the sump while the engine is running?
 
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1/10 odds that the engine will blow to crap before 50k miles... even if unicorn tears are used to lubricate. any takers? can't fix, ford qUaLiTy ...‚👌
 
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Originally Posted by SlavaB
Originally Posted by Bailes1992
I think I'd speak for the majority here and say M1 is a far superior oil to Royal Purple.
I'd speak for my car - M1 is noisy as a tractor and the engine becomes sluggish the moment I pour in any of the M1 flavors (tried vanilla, EP, 5w20,5w30) Same engine purrs like a kitten on RP I know it's only me and my application, yet M1 is not a silver bullet
In God we trust. All others bring data. Let's see the acceleration curves and dB numbers.
 
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Originally Posted by kstanf150
Originally Posted by SlavaB
Originally Posted by Bailes1992
I think I'd speak for the majority here and say M1 is a far superior oil to Royal Purple.
I'd speak for my car - M1 is noisy as a tractor and the engine becomes sluggish the moment I pour in any of the M1 flavors (tried vanilla, EP, 5w20,5w30) Same engine purrs like a kitten on RP I know it's only me and my application, yet M1 is not a silver bullet
Sluggish with M1 the moment you pour it in ????🤔 It's not running when you pour it in So tell me how that works !!!
I appreciate you being right to the point smile Yeah let's play a game of twisting words
Originally Posted by nascarnation
In God we trust. All others bring data. Let's see the acceleration curves and dB numbers.
Will love to, but don't have the needed equipment. Any suggestions? I'm being serious here But honestly, even without data, I know how my car behaves and can tell the difference There is also a fact of numerous claims here on bitog that M1 makes their cars noisier, even statistically it can't be an error
 

OVERKILL

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Originally Posted by SlavaB
There is also a fact of numerous claims here on bitog that M1 makes their cars noisier, even statistically it can't be an error
Actually, yes it can. There have been absolutely ZERO posters who have backed that noise theory with actual data. Furthermore, the vast majority of us who have used Mobil 1 over the last several decades have never experienced this illusive phenomena. There is a strong thread of mythology that runs through the various claims made regarding this oil or that. Separating the anecdotes and legend from fact is daunting and there is precious little of the latter comparatively. While the claim that Aunt Margaret's 1997 Accord was loud and down on power on *insert oil here* may get stashed in the memory banks of those already operating in a partial echo chamber and trotted out at a later date as "proof", it isn't. No matter how many times they repeat it.
 

ChevJames

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Thanks for all the answers, folks! I would have replied sooner, but I thought I'd get an email when someone replied, like with Quora. Anyway, everyone's input is appreciated. For what it's worth, I used Mobil 1 in my Saab 900 and it had gone 340,000 miles when I donated it to the Salvation Army. My research consisted of visiting various forums and reading scores of reviews. Royal Purple (RP) was rated very highly in all of the reviews that I read. I was just wondering if it was really that much better than Mobil 1. I did read that the Mobil 1 filters did not have steel mesh holding the filter media in place, so I don't think I'm going to get any Mobil 1 filters any more. I've been using Motorcraft filters exclusively in this Ford Escape. I HOPE this new engine lasts--the one it replaced had a crack in the block between cylinders 2 and 3, and coolant was leaking into cylinder No. 2. Luckily, I was still under the powertrain warranty. Over at the Ford Escape forum some people took umbrage for my reporting this problem--and I frankly couldn't believe it. If I bought a car and someone had some words of warning about a major problem, I'd want to know! It seems a number of Ecoboost engines manufactured in the UK had some bad blocks. Anyway, with the new engine, I wanted to make sure it lasts--assuming that it isn't flawed like its predecessor. I had planned to change the oil, using full synthetic, every 4,500 - 5,000 miles. I remember that Mobil 1 once had a deal that they'd guarantee your engine lasting if you used their product exclusively--though I'm sure that the warranty didn't cover blown head gaskets or broken timing belts. I just might stick with Mobil 1 for the Escape. It surely worked with my Saab!
 

OVERKILL

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Originally Posted by ChevJames
I did read that the Mobil 1 filters did not have steel mesh holding the filter media in place, so I don't think I'm going to get any Mobil 1 filters any more. I've been using Motorcraft filters exclusively in this Ford Escape.
The Motorcraft filters won't have a mesh either, it is only used, and only necessary, on synthetic media filters like the FRAM Ultra, Royal Purple, AMSOIL EaO...etc. Synthetic media (depth media) isn't rigid enough to allow for being glued to caps with a centre tube, and thus they back it with a meshing that provides that support.
 
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Originally Posted by SlavaB
Will love to, but don't have the needed equipment. Any suggestions? I'm being serious here But honestly, even without data, I know how my car behaves and can tell the difference There is also a fact of numerous claims here on bitog that M1 makes their cars noisier, even statistically it can't be an error
You can do all the measurements with even a rudimentary smartphone, a couple apps, and an interface box that goes on your OBD diagnostic connector you can get on Amazon for 15 bucks.
 
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Originally Posted by OVERKILL
There have been absolutely ZERO posters who have backed that noise theory with actual data. Furthermore, the vast majority of us who have used Mobil 1 over the last several decades have never experienced this illusive phenomena.
Boutique oil peddlers have pushed this stuff since the early days of the internet. The reason you don't see any data is because they can't even fake any, though anybody with a smartphone and a $15 OBD box can take the measurements.
 
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